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FAQ

We have added the most frequently asked questions and answers here. Please feel free to contact us if you want to know something that we have not covered. Don't forget to also have a look around our forum for lots of useful tips and advice from fellow brewers.

1. What equipment do I need?

2. How much does it cost?

3. How long does it take?

4. What is Racking?

5. What is Priming?

6. Do I need additional sugar for my beer or wine kit?

7. Can I re use old bottles?

8. How do I know my beer is fermenting?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1. What Equipement do I need?

The basic equipment needed for brewing 40 pints beer from a kit is:

* 25 Litre Fermenting bin  + Lid - this is to initially ferment the beer before you bottle or Keg

* Syphon - This is used to Syphon the beer (also known as racking) from one vessel to another, ie from the fermenting bin to keg. See Barrel or Bottle section for more info.

* Hydrometer - This is used to measure the density of the beer before, during and after fermentation so the amount of sugar that is present can be measured and therefore how much alcohol has been produced. See Measuring strength for more detail.

* Paddle - used to stir the liquid when adding the yeast.

* Sterliser - used to ensure all equipment is free from bacteria which may spoil your brew.

* Bottles or Barrels- see this section for more info.

* You will need additional equipment for brewing recipes, including a large pan and strainer. Further equipment is needed for full mash brewing. See Need to Know - Brewing Beer

For Wine:

* 2 x 25 Litre Fermenters & Lids (or 2 x 5 litre) for 6 bottles

* Syphon - as above

* 2 x airlocks - to provide an escape for CO2 but to prevent air getting in 

* Thermometer - to measure the temperture

* Hydrometer & Testing Jar - for measuring the alcohol strength - see measuring strength

* Corking Machine - To put corks into bottles

* Corks - to seal bottles

* Shrinks - seal over bottles   

* Steriliser - to ensure all equipment if free from bacteria - see sanitation section.

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2. How much does it cost -

Beer - To make 40 Pints of beer the initial equipment + beer kit will cost you about £59.99. This is for a premium beer kit ie a  Woodfordes beer kit. This price can be reduced if you order a more economical kit, saving £5 - £10.

Initial cost  - £1.49 perpint

For Subsequent brews you will only need the kit (or ingredients if following a recipe) and depending on what type of kit you use this will cost between £7.99 - £23.

Subsequent cost - 20p - 57p/pint

Wine - To make 30 bottles:

 Equipment £55.99

Wine kit     £34.49

Total          £90.48 (£3.10 per bottle)

Subsequent bottles reusing your equipment

Wine kit     £34.49 (£1.15 per bottle)

To make 6 bottles:

Equipment £21.95

Wine Kit    £10.99

Total          £32.94 (£5.49 per bottle)

Subsequent bottles reusing your equipment

Wine Kit    £10.99 (£1.83 per bottle)

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3. How Long does it take:

Beer - it should take approx 2 - 3 weeks for most beer kits to be ready, this will depend on the temperature it ferments at and how quickly it clears. All beers will improve with age if you can resist drinking them. We usually have 2 or 3 on the go at any one time.

Wine - most wine kits will be ready to drink within 28 days, although like beer they will improve with age, this is even more so with wine. Homemade Country wines may take a lot longer and will greatly improve with age.

Cider - Homemade cider from apples will take 10 months or so to mature. Kits take a couple of months.

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4. What is Racking?

Racking is the term used by brewers to describe moving the liquid from one vessel to another. Racking is used to get the liquid off the dead yeast sediment which sits at the bottom of the vessel. A syphon is used so not to disturb the yeast and cloud the liquid. 

 

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5. What is Priming?

A small amount sugar or Malt extract is added to the fermented liquid when its bottled or barelled. This then ferments which produces CO2. As the liquid is under pressure the CO2 cannot escape and instead carbonates the liquid, making it fizzy. This is known as priming. See Bottle or Barrel section for more information

 

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6. Do I need additional sugar to a beer or wine kit?

This will really depend on the kit. Most Budget and Midrange kits will require additional sugar or malt extract. The Premium kits do not as they already contain all the required sugar from the malt extract.

Most wine kits do not require additional sugar.

Additional sugar or malt extract will be required when bottling or barrelling any drink which is required to be fizzy.

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7. Can I re use old bottles?

Yes old bottles can be used for beer or wine, just ensure that they are cleaned and sterilised before use. Only use bottles that have previously stored fizzy liquid for any fizzy drinks as they will be able to withstand the pressure without exploding. You can use old coke bottles to store beer if you wish although they are not really suited to long term storage. You also need to be careful if using clear bottles as the sunlight will damage the beer or wine, this is why most bottles are green of brown to protect the drink, although white wine is uneffected by light. We favour glass bottles as they last well and look more professional but its personal choice.  See Barrel or Bottle section for more information

Tip - Rinse your bottles after drinking the beer to clear the sediment before its dries hard. This makes cleaning a lot easier later on.

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 8. How do I know my beer is fermenting?

When the beer starts to ferment a thick foam will normally form on the top. This is quite normal and will protect the beer during fermentation. This should form within 24 hrs of the yeast being added. If nothing has happened within this time you may need to check the temperature of the room as it may be too cold. If the temperture is okay, leave for a bit more time. If nothing has happened after 48 hours then you may need to add yeast nutrient but have patience before taking this step.

The foam should die down after a couple of days, after which you should take a hydrometer reading. Bottle or barrel when the hydrometer readings have remained stable for a couple of days. 

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