... I think I must have missed that bit of the bookletAndy EW wrote:The AA is assumed to be 4%
... have you checked the stout and porter recipes in that book, ISTR the recipe for Guinness has a higher EBU than that ... but anyway, it's worth bearing in mind that dark beers can "carry" bitterness better than pale beers anyway ... and beers will reduce (the perception of) bitterness levels as they age ... and so I think you should go with this bitterness level for this dark, longer matured beer (but of course, you are the head-brewer)Andy EW wrote:It's going to be a dark brew but the thing to note is the bitterness. None of the recipes in my brewers bible (GW's BYOBRA 3rd Edition) goes beyond 42 EBU, so this is unchartered territory for me
... I followed my "standard" mashing routine for my Simonds' Bitter and found no difference in outcomes (as yet) ... as it happens, for that brew, I did an overnight mash (just because it "suited", but doing that does usually get me a 1-2% uplift in efficiency) so I suppose I did a long mash like they suggest, but otherwise, I (batch) sparged with water in the low-mid 80sC (to increase the temp of the mash to mash-out temps) and carried on as I would any other brewAndy EW wrote:Where things get interesting is that the booklet suggests a mashing method ...
... not a yeast I'm experienced with myself, but OE has recommended it in the past ... if I had to guess which of the two yeast strains of Whitbread's that are still available commercially would have been used for this beer (either the Whitbread Dry (WLP007/Wy1098) or the Whitbread Ale (Wy1099/S04)), I'd have guessed the less dry version, which also has the advantage of coming in a dried yeast version (as S04)Andy EW wrote:... might just go for Muntons Gold Yeast
... hmmm, do you have a spare FV that you might be willing to tie up for this amount of time (in discussions about this problem on forums, I've even seen people put airlocks into the caps on 20+ lts plastic jerry cans to convert them into "bulk conditioning vessels" (sometimes referred to as "bright tanks" in breweries, because the yeast settles out more and the beer becomes "bright" during the period in there)) ... I'm sure a "rack to secondary" and leave it under airlock for the maturation period would suffice (ideally you'd do that while the yeast were close to finished, but still active, AIUI) ... I only used a PB because it gave me the "advantage" of being able to purge with CO2 and re-prime to consume any oxygen that had got in in transfer (and because I had two in my garage that were unlikely to have beer in them again until later this Summer or possibly into the Autumn, anyway) ... AIUI though, beer does mature quicker in bulk, so finding a vessel big enough and suitable to store it in is not just about reducing the storage space tied up during the maturation periodAndy EW wrote:I was thinking of putting it into a 5 gallon plastic keg (which I would have to buy)
... there's a really useful resource (that I finally found again, you can get it over there (link) by following the link to "Laripu's Wheeler's Real Ale List Spreadsheet") that lists the recipes in BYOBRA along with their "vital statistics" ... an oft quoted "rule of thumb" around recipes is to look at the ratio of Bitterness Units to (OG) Gravity Units to give an indication of the "perceived bitterness" of the finish beer ... for your recipe above that comes out at 56/61 = 0.91 ... and (if you wanted) you can add a column in the spreadhseet of Wheeler recipes to calculate and compare what sorts of beers have those levels of bitterness impressions ... when you think that beers like Adnam's Bitter and Deuchars IPA have similar BU:GU proportions (admittedly in lower OG beers and so lower BU levels in absolute terms ) then it might not be quite so frightening when you're throwing ALL those hops in, early on in the boilAndy EW wrote:You are right, in that Guinness Extra Stout has an EBU of 45. The brew with the highest EBU rating that I have actually brewed is the Worthington White Shield which comes in at 40 EBU.
Kyle_T wrote:I did a post on another forum but I'm not sure if we can cross link forums here?
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