http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ Brew UK Forum » Forum: Grain - Recent Topics en Tue, 07 Feb 2012 21:45:50 +0000 http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/gw-london-pride-not-quite-right#post-30551 Mon, 06 Feb 2012 22:06:24 +0000 VSat 30551@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I have brewed GW&#39;s London Pride (WLP002) and bottled. It has been in the bottle about 4 weeks but when I have tried it it has yet to clear and just doesn&#39;t taste right.</p> <p>I assume it is going to take a lot longer to clear, so will just need to be left alone, but the taste is very sweet. Is this the crystal? I also wonder whether I may have overpitched the yeast and there too much diacetyl in there too. Mr Malty said pitch a 2l starter as I didn&#39;t use a stir plate.</p> <p>Those that have done this recipe before, did you experience similar problems?</p> <p>Fortunately I have a Summer Lightning in the FV with yeast recultured from 2 bottles of Summer Lightning that has taken off really well. And stir plate parts on order &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_smile.gif&quot; title=&quot;:-)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-all-grain-done#post-30309 Sun, 05 Feb 2012 01:24:57 +0000 Squire 30309@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi all, well it&#39;s been a long day. AG starter kit arrived yesterday, Summer Lightening in the FV! Just waiting for the Wyeast to kick in! Only fudge up was I didn&#39;t have enough sparge water - so I&#39;m 4 litres away from the magic 23. DOH! As I write there is about an inch of yeast at the bottom of the FV so I recon it won&#39;t take long for fermentation to complete. The other bonus is that maybe I&#39;ll get a slightly stronger beer - couldn&#39;t take any hydrometer readings lost the trial jar - bugger! Thanks to all you guys on here, I&#39;ve been reading all the posts and gathering all the info I needed. One question - what do you guys do with the spent grains? Cheers! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/very-slow-to-boil-hltboiler#post-30342 Sun, 05 Feb 2012 12:34:46 +0000 james 30342@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi all. I&#39;m in the process of doing my 2nd All Grain brew. (Oatmeal Stout) Everything seems to be going ok at the moment (fingers crossed!) but my boiler is taking about a year to heat up to boiling point. This was also the case when I done my 1st batch so I am sure there is not a problem with the element, I just don&#39;t think it&#39;s very powerful. The boiler I have is a Brupaks one that is sold on Brew Uk. Because it takes so long to heat up this adds on alot of time to my brew day as you can imagine. Does anybody have any ideas about what I can do to reach boiling point quicker for future brews? ie immersion heater etc. Also, would you recommend pitching my yeast before aeration or after? don&#39;t think it makes much difference myself but let me know what you think.<br /> Thanks. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/jellfish#post-29485 Thu, 26 Jan 2012 21:55:50 +0000 coddy 29485@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>hi, i have done my first ag brew today, i think all was ok but i have just had a look in my fv and its full of what look like jellyfish! is this normal and will it drop to the bottom so i can get rid when racking? im assuming its some protein stuff thats clumping together </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-ag-brew-no-turning-back-now#post-29593 Sat, 28 Jan 2012 17:22:50 +0000 stray66uk 29593@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I finally cracked open one of my first AG brews today (well i&#39;ve cracked open 5 to be honest) Wow! Its the Timothy Taylor Landlord brew. I bottled it and its almost lager sparkling which I know would be no good for the purists but its how I like it. Its ace, no hb twang, no extract twang although to be honest ive done the amarillo and the rocker extracts and I loved them and never realy new what the extract twang was. What can I say, if your considering AG go for it. You can set up for around £150 if you DIY it and make a &quot;hamish&quot;. The beer is then cheap as chips and gorgeous. You just stare at it in the pint pot and think &quot;I can&#39;t believe I made that from scratch :D&quot; Go on you know you wanna </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/boysbitter#post-28565 Sun, 22 Jan 2012 06:48:59 +0000 Otter 28565@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Greetings from the windy canterbury plains anybody got a recipe for boys bitter and how do you get over the lack of alcohol to give you the proper mouthfeel,probably opened up a huge area but id like to brew a lower alcohol beer for a end of year do for students and i do like a challenge!cheers </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/hop-storage#post-28607 Sun, 22 Jan 2012 17:42:32 +0000 coddy 28607@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>hello again, im going to order my ingredients for my fist brew an noticed that the hops come in packs of 100g, i will only be using 40g for the brew and wonder if the hops can be frozen or is it best just to keep them in the fridge? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/think-i-may-have-my-first-major-problem#post-26167 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 21:16:14 +0000 stray66uk 26167@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I had a brew day saturday, Ringwood 49er. Everything went like clockwork. Mash, sparge, boil etc. Got the OG spot on and ended up with 24 litres. Happy Days.<br /> BUT this is the first time ive used a WYeast smack pack.<br /> I set the pack off 4 hours before i used it and it swelled up as per instructions. I added it to my wort which was sitting nicely at 20 degrees. Its in the brewfridge now at 20 degrees and nothing. No bubbling, no head or scum mark where one had been , nothing. Not overly inpressed with the old liquid yeast up to now as you can imagine. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/hop-degredation#post-25434 Mon, 02 Jan 2012 07:26:34 +0000 Otter 25434@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Just wondering peeps whether beersmiths figures on hop degredation have any credence with you all,does it make any difference if they are frozen or just kept at 4degrees in a fridge,reason being i&#39;ve just found a shedload of styrians in me freezer which has been there over 12 monthes and yes i forget they were there,thoughts people please and yes i&#39;m used to abuse,broad shoulders and all that! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27656 Sun, 15 Jan 2012 16:16:59 +0000 coddy 27656@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>hi, im hopefully going to do my first all grain brew next week and was wondering how important it is to treat the water? will a campden tablet do the job? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/wort-chilling-process#post-28108 Tue, 17 Jan 2012 16:23:04 +0000 Iestyn 28108@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi there,</p> <p>A recent thread made me panic a little; </p> <p>I thought I saw on a youtube vid, a brewer syphoning wort through the copper chiller (in a bucket full of ice) to cool the wort to 20c. This is what I did for my Summer Lightning, and worked really well (20c in two run offs).</p> <p>Is this wrong? I&#39;m guessing that it is now. &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_redface.gif&quot; title=&quot;:oops:&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/cool-box-size#post-25710 Thu, 05 Jan 2012 23:09:45 +0000 PaulGee 25710@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hey all</p> <p>I am going to start gathering equipment to go AG and have a question regarding cool box mash tuns. Does the shape and size of the cool box matter, is a tall box better than a shallow one and is the empty space above the grain an issue if doing a small brew? It&#39;s just that I have a 48 litre igloo cool box that may fit the bill.</p> <p>Cheers </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/hlt-question#post-26560 Tue, 10 Jan 2012 16:01:34 +0000 PaulGee 26560@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi again folks.</p> <p>I was wondering if anyone uses a Burco or Swan boiler for the HLT &amp; if any mods are needed to thermostats, tap etc? There are quite a few on ebay at the moment and I&#39;m trying to gather all the equiment to go AG, on a rather limited budget.</p> <p>Sorry for the rushed earlier version of this post, was doing it from work.</p> <p>Cheers</p> <p>Paul </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/all-grain-beer-engine-question#post-26103 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 17:12:33 +0000 Ed the BASS 26103@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi all,</p> <p>I have just finished brewing my first all grain, a clone of a budweiser found in a Dave Line book received for xmas. I was, however, alarmed at the loss of liquor during the 90 min boil and had to top it up with water to the required volume. The OG was only 3 points off so hopefully it will be ok.</p> <p>Ok, so now my question. I have played with beer engine for another clone recipe for Bath Ales found on a website. I only want 15 litres but in the total liquor column it has requested 19.2. </p> <p>So is 19.2 the total amount of liquor I put into the boiler for a 90 min boil in order to achieve a final volume of 15 litres? </p> <p>Or am I making it more complicated!!!</p> <p>Thanks</p> <p>Ed </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/1sr-ag-underway#post-25386 Sun, 01 Jan 2012 11:33:01 +0000 StueyJ 25386@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Morning chaps and chapesses. Happy new year! Got my first resolution on the go at 0830 today starting the summer lightning kit. So far so good. Mash smells great and due to start sparging in 20 mins. Only problem so far was working out what the mash temp actually was. Seemed to vary depending on where I put my probe despite stirring it up well. I reckon it was about 66-67&#39;c overall. pH came out at 5.7 which I&#39;m happy with. Will try to post some photos later. Cheers. Stuey. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/heating-grist-before-adding-strike-liquor-1#post-25807 Fri, 06 Jan 2012 22:29:05 +0000 kevin 25807@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi,</p> <p>I read an old book which recommended heating the grist in the oven before adding it to the liquor in the mash. It claimed an improvement in the wort all around. It makes sense as I presume it will reduce the thermal shock between room temp grist and the strike temp of the liquor. Has any one done this and what is the outcome like?</p> <p>Thanks </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-all-grain-has-stopped-fermenting-after-24-hrs#post-24135 Tue, 13 Dec 2011 14:43:08 +0000 ewiecluie 24135@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I did my first all grain brew on Saturday and appart from it being a nightmare (boiler broke half way through, ended up rushing at the end as I had to go out) the fermentation took a while to start. It didnt start till Monday morning (or Sunday night while I was asleep) and has now stopped (tuesday morning).</p> <p>The mash would not hold the required temp, had to keep adding boiling water and the yeast was possibly added while the brew was a little on the warm side as i was rushing to cool it down- it was fairly cold but i reckon still around high 20 degrees C.</p> <p>Any ideas as to why it could have gone wrong or any ways to save it?! Should I add more yeast? Additional sugar? Maybe the room it is in is too cold....</p> <p>I did give it a stir today (probably a bad idea!) and the fermentation appears to have started a little again.</p> <p>Any advice would be much appreciated!</p> <p>Ewen </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-24585 Mon, 19 Dec 2011 22:06:49 +0000 stuwilliams 24585@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Evening all.<br /> Was just about to pull the trigger on a new mash tun, one of those s/s marmite thermos jobbies from the german company that sells on ebay.fr. I&#39;d got the price from them for the 80L which I think is pretty reasonable, and then noticed that they do a 70L that has a tap fitted, which would make swapping for a proper ball valve tap much easier.<br /> So, what would you do? get the smaller one and have an easier life, or get the bigger one and have a crack?<br /> I fitted ball valves on my other kit no problem, but my concern here is that because its double skinned, then getting a good seal would be tricky. I was planning on drilling a bigger hole through the outside skin, than the inside, so that I could clamp the tank fixing just to that inside skin. Does that sound stupid? How would you do it?</p> <p>I&#39;m just having a wobble, and need a good slapping and somebody to just tell me to do it. Feel free &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_biggrin.gif&quot; title=&quot;:D&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-hops#post-24917 Sat, 24 Dec 2011 04:49:20 +0000 Otter 24917@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Blimey its hot,greetings from sunny nz and happy xmas to one and all.<br /> Just laid my hands on some motueka and kohatu hops and was wondering on a recipe,water suits a pale ale along american lines but as to malt ratios?All ideas gratefully received,cheers </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-ag-hopback-sumer-lightning-q#post-24803 Thu, 22 Dec 2011 15:13:59 +0000 Iestyn 24803@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi guys and gals,</p> <p>My AG kit is almost ready. I need one test before having a go at the Hopback Summer Lightning next week.</p> <p>I think I’m clued up on the basic process, but I’m a little grey on the amounts of water to be used?</p> <p>- How much water for the mash? (for 4.99kg Crushed Maris Otter)</p> <p>- How much for the sparge? (aiming for 23 litres/ 40 pints)</p> <p>(some water loss to hops - 24grm Goldings Hops/ 46grm Challenger Hops)</p> <p>Once I know this; I’m pretty much ready.</p> <p>Many thanks</p> <p>Iestyn </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/brewing-40-pints-without-the-correct-equipment#post-24418 Sat, 17 Dec 2011 17:10:44 +0000 Timbo77 24418@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hello all!</p> <p>First time on here for me...*waves*<br /> Right then, last year sometime I decided to have a go at making a gallon of beer from an allgrain recipe and to be fair, turned out quite quaffable! &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_smile.gif&quot; title=&quot;:)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; I have decided that I&#39;d like to have a go at one of the 40 pint allgrain recipes featured on this website. However, I do not have the equipment to mash or boil up 40 pints at a time. Can I make do with mashing the grain in smaller quantities using a 3 gallon stock pot and an oven? I have a 5 gallon bucket to ferment it all in but just wondered if I can mash the grain a bit at a time or should I bite the bullet and splash out on a mash tun?</p> <p>I hope I&#39;m making sense.....</p> <p>Cheers!<br /> Tim </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/strange-yeast-lumps-floating-on-top#post-24318 Thu, 15 Dec 2011 23:05:02 +0000 stray66uk 24318@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I did my first all-grain brew about 12 days ago. Its the timothy taylor landlord kit. Its been out in the brew fridge at a steady 20 degrees for 12 days. Ive just brought it inside to settle again before bottling over the weekend and Ive noticed the top is almost covered in big yeast lumps. Is this normal with all-grain as the extract kits ive done only had sediment or yeast on the bottom. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/grain-proportions-in-a-brew#post-24249 Wed, 14 Dec 2011 22:19:38 +0000 stuwilliams 24249@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Evening all.<br /> Anyone got any rule of thumbs for % of each type of grain to use when building a recipe? Nothing too fancy, just looking for a little guidance about how much wheat, and munich I can throw in. Never bothered me up to now, but always looking to further my knowledge. Last half dozen brews have been about trying different hops to &quot;get my eye in&quot;, or at least thats my excuse. I&#39;d typically been using 5kg pale, 1kg munich, 1kg wheat, and have no complaints. Have a vague memory about being told not to go over 10% on other grains though, but not sure what type of other grains that was for.<br /> Cheers in advance </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/london-pride-wlp002-advice#post-24017 Mon, 12 Dec 2011 12:11:27 +0000 VSat 24017@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Did BIAB#2, GW&#39;s London Pride over the weekend. I no chill in a cube which allows me to split the brew day and to pitch yeast when I am ready. Worked form my first BIAB (SNPA clone) which is going down very well!</p> <p>So my question is regarding the diacetyl rest. Saracen may be the best person to answer(?), but I don&#39;t have a controlled temp fridge.</p> <p>My thoughts are pitch around 18C(temp of my utility room) for about 3 days, then bring inside to raise temp to 21C for a couple of days and then back into utility room for another week to let the yeast clean up before kegging/bottling.</p> <p>Does this sound about right? Thanks </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/efficiency-woes#post-22205 Sun, 20 Nov 2011 21:55:27 +0000 Nath 22205@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Urghhhh I dunno lads. After a spate of infections, which have thankfully subsided in the last 4 brews I&#39;m now having problems with my efficiency. My last brew last weekend I got 72% efficiency from batch sparging and now the same routine this weekend and I only get 60%. </p> <p>Seriously want to find out what&#39;s going on, I did nothing different but seem to be wayyyyyyy down. 2 sparges of 11.5 litres the first lot went in at 86c, mixed, left to settle for a few mins then re circulated till clear and drained to boiler, the grain bed temp was 77c. 2nd lot was at 81c and the same procedure applied, the grained was 73c. </p> <p>I know it&#39;s not the best way to batch sparge but as I got 72% last time using this method I thought I would stay with it to ensure constant results. </p> <p>The only thing different was the water salts, I used a dry pale style instead of a sweet pale style but I can&#39;t see how that would change things</p> <p>I made sure my hydrometer was reading right and used 2 thermometers just to make sure strike and mash temps were ok, didn&#39;t check ph or starch test though. </p> <p>Any ideas or suggestions to make my brewing life better! &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_neutral.gif&quot; title=&quot;:|&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/cleaningsterilizing-siphon-tubes#post-23487 Mon, 05 Dec 2011 14:38:02 +0000 james 23487@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi all. I was just wondering how everybody goes about cleaning and sterilizing the inside of your siphon tubes?<br /> I had an idea to get a long rigid tube that is sealed at one end, stand it on it&#39;s end, fill it with sterilizer/cleaner and lower siphon tubes into it. Only problem is, this sounds like alot of wasted sterilizer/cleaner. Anybody have a more effective way of doing it?<br /> Thanks. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/just-popping-me-all-grain-cherry-ooh-err-having-a-bit-of-a-nightmare#post-23394 Sun, 04 Dec 2011 12:49:27 +0000 stray66uk 23394@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Just in the process of doing my first all grain. Its the Timothy Taylor Landlord kit.<br /> Had a few problems getting the mash temp to 66. As i,m out in the shed and its freezing I added the mash liquor to the tun at 80, added the grains and too cold. added hot water, too hot , added cold too cold etc.etc etc. Anyway its mashing now at 66 degrees but its way too thin but nowt i can do now. I,m thinking or sparging to 35 litres into the boiler to allow for evaporation, hops and a combined dead space of 4 litres. I hope to end up with 23litres , does this sound about right? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/rushed-xmas-brew#post-23102 Tue, 29 Nov 2011 21:46:21 +0000 stuwilliams 23102@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Evening all, been a while since I posted here, but I have been lurking and more importantly brewing!<br /> Got a brew on last Saturday in a bit of a rush with xmas looming large. I&#39;d had the water ready for two weeks and just couldn&#39;t find the time. An overnight mash was the answer, as the missus was in bed for the mash and having a lie in during the boil. The perfect crime...<br /> Anyway, its nothing too fancy - just a single hop (pacific gem), with maris otter, munich, wheat, aromatic and a splash of chocolate malt. should turn out somewhere around 6.5%, and 90 IBU and quite dark and heavy. Its tucked up in the FV right now, which brings me to my question... Any suggestions about what I could throw in for the rest of primary (or maybe secondary) to give it a little kick/interest/spice? I&#39;m thinking along the lines of cinnamon, cloves, cardamon seeds or fruit extract/syrup (not all of these obviously.... that would be vile.) I&#39;ve not tried anything like this before, so tips or suggestions would be appreciated, I&#39;m leaning towards getting some fruit and boiling up to a syrupy type thing and chucking it in... Answers on a postcard please.<br /> Ta<br /> Stu. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/thwaites-drak-mild-nutty-black#post-22245 Mon, 21 Nov 2011 22:03:00 +0000 Nath 22245@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Right-o, fingers crossed brewday for Thursday but I have to get a yeast on the starter now. I only have 1968 or WLP007, what do you guys think for a mild? Heres the recipe:-</p> <p>Thwaites Nutty Black<br /> Mild<br /> Type: All Grain Date: 24/11/2011<br /> Batch Size (fermenter): 23.00 l Brewer: Nath<br /> Boil Size: 32.27 l Asst Brewer:<br /> Boil Time: 75 min Equipment: Shiney! 19<br /> End of Boil Volume 27.04 l Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 %<br /> Final Bottling Volume: 23.00 l Est Mash Efficiency 84.8 %<br /> Fermentation: Ale, Two Stage Taste Rating(out of 50): 30.0<br /> Taste Notes:<br /> Ingredients</p> <p>Ingredients<br /> Amt Name Type # %/IBU<br /> 2.85 kg Pale Malt, Maris Otter (5.9 EBC) Grain 1 84.3 %<br /> 0.36 kg Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L (157.6 EBC) Grain 2 10.5 %<br /> 0.18 kg Black (Patent) Malt (1280.0 EBC) Grain 3 5.2 %<br /> 25.21 g Challenger [7.71 %] - Boil 75.0 min Hop 4 22.0 IBUs<br /> 20.00 g Goldings, East Kent [5.22 %] - Aroma Steep 30.0 min Hop 5 0.0 IBUs<br /> 1.0 pkg London ESB Ale (Wyeast Labs #1968) [124.21 ml] Yeast 6 - </p> <p>Beer Profile</p> <p>Est Original Gravity: 1.034 SG Measured Original Gravity: 1.046 SG<br /> Est Final Gravity: 1.009 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.010 SG<br /> Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 3.3 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 4.7 %<br /> Bitterness: 22.0 IBUs Calories: 427.1 kcal/l<br /> Est Color: 42.4 EBC </p> <p>The recipe comes from GW&#39;s book, but I used EKG instead of fuggles and dropped em in at flameout instead of 10 mins. Efficiency set to 75% and Im going for a different setup, more about that later. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/way-to-amarillo#post-23215 Thu, 01 Dec 2011 17:27:42 +0000 figaro48 23215@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Having brewed -way to amarillo- and done it exactly as the kit says I have never had any problem. I must say this is the finest light/pale ale that I have ever tasted. But always looking for perfection in our exiting hobby I always want that 10% more. Although this is a good recipie it always has that , how do you say, that extract taste. Has anyone made this beer by means of all grain and if so ,what was the result? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/ag-for-beginners-with-limited-equipment-too-good-to-be-true#post-22482 Fri, 25 Nov 2011 00:09:34 +0000 Rhys 22482@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>The Blog that got me into brewing has just posted this!</p> <p><a href="http://www.mashspargeboil.com/complete-guide-to-all-grain-brewing/">Too good to be true?</a></p> <p>Is it too be good to be true? It seems easy to follow, requiring minimal equipment? </p> <p>Any thoughts on my chances of success? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/safale-05-us-yeast#post-22843 Sun, 27 Nov 2011 15:16:04 +0000 beery bob 22843@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>hello guys,anyone had a problem with safale-05us yeast clearing.racked beer out of fermenter 2 weeks ago,still looks like mud.Safale 04 yeast that i use all the time drops clear in 3 or 4 days,rather deppressing. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/malting-grain#post-22178 Sat, 19 Nov 2011 19:33:51 +0000 Iestyn 22178@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi all</p> <p>My sister&#39;s bagged a cushy little number with a nice fella on a farm.</p> <p>Having discussed my venuture to all grain, he preceded to take give me a tour of the grain stores - 11,000 tons of grain stacked next to their house!!</p> <p>Is the next question obvious - can I malt my own grain? <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malt" rel="nofollow">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malt</a> Wiki says that grains are soaked and then dried to halt sugar production.</p> <p>If I can malt my own - free grain all round!! hahah </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/is-ag-much-cheaper#post-21995 Tue, 15 Nov 2011 14:06:14 +0000 Iestyn 21995@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi there,</p> <p>I&#39;m doing my research and thinking about the AG set up, but to convince the Mrs, is AG that much cheaper? (No doubt, the quality is better!) </p> <p>I&#39;m at the extract stage, paying £20 ish for extract recipes, but I see here that AG kits are £15 and can be as much as £25 elsewhere.</p> <p>1kg of grains looks around £1.50 (say £5.00 per kit), decent yeast looks to be £6.00 and then hops are around £5.00 per 100g (at least £16 per kit).</p> <p>Still better than pub prices and I&#39;m looking forward to the process, but just wondering how you AG-ers manage? Bulk buy grains? </p> <p>Cheers all </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/anyone-want-to-demonstrate-all-grain#post-21941 Mon, 14 Nov 2011 13:01:14 +0000 ead101 21941@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi Guys,</p> <p>I&#39;m planning on moving to all grain in the next couple of months. I&#39;ve started doing some reading but many experts recommend being shown how to do all grain by an experienced brewer. &#39;I&#39;m based near Bath, anyone interested in having a newbie round theirs to ask dumb questions on an upcoming brew day? does BrewUK offer a short course in all grain? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/help-on-batch-sparging#post-21886 Sat, 12 Nov 2011 21:25:35 +0000 Nath 21886@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi peeps,</p> <p>After getting some less than encouraging efficiencies from my fly sparging setup I wanted to go back to batch sparging, can I get some opinions on how people are doing it and what kind of efficiencies are you getting please! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/crystal-maltcarahills-question#post-21844 Sat, 12 Nov 2011 01:51:06 +0000 Ian 21844@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hello all,</p> <p>Relatively new to brewing and looking for some advice on how to use crystal malts and carahills (and other types f grains / addatives)?<br /> I have seen them mentioned quite a lot and am after advice on how to use them - do they need to be crushed before use? How long to &#39;steep&#39; them? e.t.c.</p> <p>Basically any information on their use.</p> <p>Cheers,<br /> Ian </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/posting-pictures#post-21760 Wed, 09 Nov 2011 22:51:02 +0000 Greenman 21760@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I&#39;ve been reading the forum since i started brewing back in june and its spot on, the most friendly one i&#39;ve read anyhoo.</p> <p>I&#39;ve taken the plunge and built my own all grain set up in the shed this weekend and wanted to share a pic or two but cant figure out how to do it! Pipe fitting yes, technology no...</p> <p>A idiots guide would be good! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/well-well-how-good-is-that#post-21780 Thu, 10 Nov 2011 18:24:51 +0000 sonicm1etn 21780@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi,</p> <p>Completed 1st AG (GW Timothy Taylor Landlord) about 2 weeks ago, fermented in a week, been in my secondary fermenter for the last 4 days.<br /> As I couldn&#39;t wait, and don&#39;t really have a cool place in the house (yet) beer is hovering around 18c (as I had tasted it while racking, and oh how wonderful it tasted then) I shoved some beer brite in yesturday to help clear so I can get it in the cornie to condition.</p> <p>Checked it just now, a lot clearer than the kit beers, not crystal yet, but good enough for me, but the taste.......</p> <p>WOW!!!! how good is that, almost like being pulled from a proper cask in a pub, so wonderfully hoppy, nice bitter finish superb.<br /> Will give it until Sat in the secondary then rack off in to the cornie, and bottle the rest (maybe get 4 to 6 bottles) to condition for a further 3 weeks or so.......that&#39;s if I don&#39;t drink it all first.</p> <p>Going to get my second AG on this Sat as well. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/just-started-my-1st-brew-day-and-have-already-mad-a-mistake#post-21656 Mon, 07 Nov 2011 10:53:40 +0000 james 21656@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi all. I have just started my 1st all grain brew day. I am using a brupaks bavarian mashkit. The instructions say to use 2 litres of strike water per kilo of grain at 50c and hold for 30 mins then add boiling water to get the temp up to 64-67c and hold for 90 mins. In true style I read the wrong instructions and heated the strike water to 80c to get a mash temp of 64-67,added it to the grain stirred and then realised my mistake! I then had to add around 2-3 litres of cold water to the mash to bring the temperature down to 50c. The instructions said this should be quite a thick mash ans now its very thin. Whats peoples thoughts on how this will affect things? I&#39;m slightly worried I have messed it up!! Please help! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/amount-of-water-to-treat-for-brew-day-tomorrow#post-21628 Sun, 06 Nov 2011 18:51:02 +0000 james 21628@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi all. I have my 1st all grain brew day tomorrow and am just in the process of treating my water with Campden tablets. I am brewing a Belgium Weissbier with a Brupaks Mashkit. I do have Beersmith but becuase I don&#39;t know the actual ingredients in the kit,I dont know how to put the details in to the program to work out sparge water.<br /> My question though is not how to put the details into Beersmith. The Mashkit does come with some simple instructions which does tell me how much strike water I need, along with the temperature of the strike water. What I am unsure of is how much water I should treat with the campden tablets for sparging? I kind of understand that once I have emptied the mash tun after the mash I will need to put in enough liquid to achieve the amount I need before boiling. Am I correct in thinking that once the grain has absorbed its liquid during the mash it will not absorb any more during sparging? Oh, by the way I am going to batch sparge. Any help on this would be welcome. Also if anybody has any other tips for my 1st brew day that would also be great! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/brewing-tomorrow-mild#post-19811 Fri, 09 Sep 2011 22:33:34 +0000 Jim 19811@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Looking forward to it.. Banks original mild recipe from GW </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/how-do-i-know-what-yeasts-to-use#post-21539 Thu, 03 Nov 2011 18:44:39 +0000 jonnycope 21539@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>What do the different yeasts do? All I really know is Safale S-04 Yeast. Is there a particular yeast for a particular ale e.g. Stout, IPA, Amber, etc.??? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-ag-brew-on-the-go-so-nervous#post-21350 Sat, 29 Oct 2011 14:57:49 +0000 Jules 21350@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi peeps</p> <p>Have got my first all grain brew on the go - using the BIAB method and am at the mashing stage.</p> <p>So far so good - even the kids are not moaning too much about the smell of marmite.</p> <p>Its the Timothy Taylors Landlord kit from here and am going to keg this one.</p> <p>Will update once done - if my nerves hold out.</p> <p>Jules </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/mash-ratio#post-21504 Wed, 02 Nov 2011 17:15:49 +0000 Hamish 21504@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I&#39;m thinking about building another brerwery, nothing wrong with the current one, just fancy a bit of tinkering.</p> <p>I&#39;ve been toying with the idea of building something along the lines of the <a href="http://www.speidels-braumeister.de/shop_content.php/coID/29/content/technische-daten.html"><u>Speidel Braumeister</u></a> but with an HLT so that I can sparge.</p> <p>I currently mash at 2.5 litres per kilo but if I build a Braumeister type setup it&#39;ll have to be more like 5:1.</p> <p>So, what are the consequences of a much thinner mash?, brewery aside, is a thinner mash something you would contemplate?. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/timothy-tailor-black-malt-question#post-21475 Tue, 01 Nov 2011 21:29:55 +0000 beemsquar 21475@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi, this is my first all grain brew and I was wondering if the black malt that comes with the Timothy Tailor recipe from brew UK needs to be crushed before its used? Also do I mash and boil both the crushed pale ale malt and the black malt from the beginning or is the black malt added at the end?<br /> Any help would be very much appreciated!<br /> Thank you<br /> Andy </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/testing-boiler-and-concerned-about-lack-of-rolling-boil#post-21377 Sun, 30 Oct 2011 18:58:38 +0000 james 21377@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi all. I have bought the All Grain Starter Kit from Brew Uk which includes a brupaks boiler, wort chiller, mash tun, book by Graham Wheeler and a mash kit. Anyway. I am in the process of testing my equipment to work out dead space and evaporation rate for my 1st all grain brew next week. I have put 25 litres of water in the boiler, turned it onto boil, put the lid on and got it boiling nicely. I have now taken the lid off and am going to wait for 1hr and check how much water has evaporated. The problem I have is that now the lid is off the water is not boiling like what I would call a &quot;rolling boil&quot; and certainly not like I have seen people on youtube boil their wort.It was boiling nicely when I 1st took the lid off. There are definitely bubbles rising and it is a bit more than what I would call simmering but, as I said, not a rolling boil. I am concerned this will not be sufficient for my brew day next week as I understand that the point of boiling the wort is to sterilise it. I have thought of leaving the lid on to keep a vigorous boil but would not then be able to stir the wort to avoid a boil over. Of course I could be worrying about nothing but thought I would get some advice from people that have some experience. Please help! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/styrians-im-a-bit-confused#post-20856 Wed, 12 Oct 2011 16:56:40 +0000 saracen 20856@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I&#39;ve used some Styrian Goldings (Bobek) in my latest brew and also done some reading up on them. It appears that Styrian Goldings are not Goldings at all, but a Fuggle derivation. There also seem to be several types of Styrian Goldings, all with different characteristics. It also seems that the whole classification changed at the time of some political upheavel in Europe, and lastly they come from Slovenia but the standard Styrian Goldings pack is labeled &#39;Product of the UK&#39;.<br /> They have given the beer quite a big citrus/grape aroma similar to Citra and not dissimilar to Nelson Sauvin.<br /> So, in general, are they all very much the same or are there big differences and what sort of effect do they have for both Bittering and aroma? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/ag8-smells-likes-polish-but-tastes-like-beer#post-20578 Tue, 04 Oct 2011 19:46:20 +0000 Anonymous 20578@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Well I suppose I was due a problem. 18 days in the fermenter, went to transfer into the secondary. Looked ok<br /> now them I toughy give it a sniff.. wallop. Who has tipped nail polish in my brew? Scooped a bit of the beer and dreading the taste, but tastes rather nice and nothing like the smell. It was brewed in my brew fridge at 18c. Bit perplexed..... </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/mash-kit-end-of-life#post-20544 Mon, 03 Oct 2011 20:14:35 +0000 Toombstone 20544@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I&#39;ve still have 2 mash kits which I have not used in about a year, they have been kept cool &amp; are locked in air tight boxes, do you still think they will be Ok? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/how-long-will-a-yeast-starter-last#post-20344 Tue, 27 Sep 2011 08:20:18 +0000 Nath 20344@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Well peeps,</p> <p>My saturday brewday was a no go and ive been either a) working or b) feeling sick for the last few days and ive yet to brew and my lovely looking 1968 stir plated starter is begging to be put into some fresh wort!</p> <p>How long will this last? It will be a week on wednesday since I started her up and I put her in the fridge sunday night (still in the conical with the wort) in the hope I could just take her out on the brewday morning, warm her up for 6 or so hours and pitch direct.</p> <p>Does that sound ok? Im gonna try and brew tomorrow which will be 7 days from start. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/1st-ag-biab-attempt#post-20193 Thu, 22 Sep 2011 12:47:43 +0000 grmski 20193@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Last night SWMBO was away the kids were put to bed and the grain had arrived making the perfect chance to get my first biab brew on &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_biggrin.gif&quot; title=&quot;:D&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> <p>The equiptment I used was:</p> <p>18l Birko electric urn<br /> Typical Primary FV<br /> Kettle<br /> Bucket<br /> Mash bag</p> <p>A very short list that was cheap to put together as the urn came free from work and was just going to be dumped.</p> <p>The recipe was this <a href="http://hopville.com/recipe/880195/american-ipa-recipes/tom-payne-ipa-biab" rel="nofollow">http://hopville.com/recipe/880195/american-ipa-recipes/tom-payne-ipa-biab</a></p> <p>Using the Maxi-biab method I heated 15l up to strike temp of 72oC removed 2l of water and then rained the grain into the bag. Once all added I checked the temp and topped up the urn to the top which was 21l.</p> <p>Lagged the urn with a blanket and coat and left it for 90 mins.</p> <p>Easy peasy so far!</p> <p>Next came the sparge step which I expected to be just as simple.</p> <p>The process should have involved removing the bag from the urn and placing in a bucket and dunking into 4 l of just boiled water which could then be added back into the urn for the boil. Unfortunately the bucket was not wide enough to easily accomdate the grain bag and water so It took about 6 mini sparges to get this step complete. Next time I will use a wide BIG plastic bucket.</p> <p>With all sparge liquid in and the wort boiling away I added 32g of Colombus and boiled for 60 mins. Unofrtunately, the urn stopped vigorusly boiling and maintained a 98oC temp for the last hour of the boil. I had tried to bypass the temp control but this needs re visiting to prevent the switch off. The rest of the hop schedule was completed with 30 and 10 min additions of cascade at 18g each addition. I decided to do a dry hop when ferm is complete of the final 18g of cascade.</p> <p>The next stage was to chill the wort with my homemade chiller (which was untested) again unfortunately the chiller leaked at the joins and rather than have plain tap water entering the wort at this stage I decided to leave the urn with the wort to chill overnight. </p> <p>This morning I emptied the 15 l of wort now nearly at pitching temp in the FV and diluted to 20 l with cool water and will pitch the yeast this afternoon when I return.</p> <p>The gravities and effieciency were good I think at least 70% with a gravity of 1061 so very pleased about that aiming for about 1016 and abv of 5.5-6%</p> <p>All in all I&#39;m reasonably pleased with the first attempt but have a couple of processes to perfect the sparge step I know will be fine next time by using a bigger bucket. The urn not maintaining a boil can be overcome easily and my wort chiller can be made to not leak without too much trouble.</p> <p>So as an experiement it went pretty well and if the beer is drinkable in a month&#39;s time I will be well pleased with my nights work.</p> <p>As an incentive to those yet to go AG the smell is amazing! and seeing a wort in the FV all by your own hand is a beautiful feeling. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/ag-equipment-advice#post-20210 Thu, 22 Sep 2011 16:22:07 +0000 thurgie 20210@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I am looking at writing my Christmas list &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_smile.gif&quot; title=&quot;:)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; and am definately going to get AG equipment. I&#39;ve got my eye on the starter kit <a href="http://www.brewuk.co.uk/store/ag-equipment/all-grain-starter-set.html">here</a>, but was wondering what people think? Do i need to add anything to it?<br /> As it will be quite a large outlay (albeit by Santa), i want to get the right stuff first time and not need to &#39;upgrade&#39; anything for a good while.</p> <p>Any advice would be greatly appreciated. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/poll-to-pitch-on-trub-or-split-starter#post-20147 Tue, 20 Sep 2011 17:05:53 +0000 Nath 20147@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Whaddya think peeps,</p> <p>Should I ferment my beer this saturday then after 2 weeks syphon off and pitch my new beer directly on the trub or should I double my starter today and pitch half saturday and keep the other half in the fridge for next time? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/step-by-step-guide#post-20131 Mon, 19 Sep 2011 23:01:46 +0000 Liam 20131@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hey, Just started my first brew with the Woodfordes Microbrewery Premium 40 Pint Starter Set. So far so good but I&#39;m interested in all grain. Is there a step by step guide to equipment needed and what it is used for? Seen a couple of posts about making some equipment which I&#39;m sure I can manage it&#39;s more what its for when it&#39;s used and how? Thanks guys </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/bubbles#post-19186 Tue, 23 Aug 2011 14:25:56 +0000 Hamish 19186@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Wyeast 3068 Weihenstephan Weizen in action...</p> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/28027508" rel="nofollow">http://vimeo.com/28027508</a> </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/brace-yourselves#post-18830 Fri, 12 Aug 2011 17:19:26 +0000 Hamish 18830@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p><a href="http://www.fwi.co.uk/Articles/2011/08/11/128323/Fears-grow-for-malting-barley-crop.htm" rel="nofollow">http://www.fwi.co.uk/Articles/2011/08/11/128323/Fears-grow-for-malting-barley-crop.htm</a> </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/bittering-with-more-than-one-variety-of-hop#post-18913 Mon, 15 Aug 2011 12:18:35 +0000 Hamish 18913@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I understand the reason why commercial brewers use more than one hop for bittering, hops vary from year to year and from crop to crop, not just in alpha acid but in yield too. They have to produce the same beer consistently and they have to be commercially viable.</p> <p>But what is the reasoning behind using more than one variety of bittering hop in the home brew environment?.</p> <p>I have an old Wheeler book, first published in 1993, in it there are about 50 full mash recipes. A good many of them are variations of brown beer with fuggles and goldings but most styles are covered. Most have a single bittering hop, a few have two bittering hops and one Irish stout recipe has three bittering hops and no late additions. One of my criticisms of these recipes is they are light on late hops and there is a complete absence of post boil hops but I guess thats another discussion.</p> <p>In the recipe section on this site there are a couple recipes by Stuart Howe head brewer at Sharp&#39;s, for bittering they call for &#39;any hop with alpha of around 10%&#39; &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_confused.gif&quot; title=&quot;:?&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; so he clearly doesn&#39;t believe its necessary.</p> <p>So, as a home brewer what are the advantages, if any, of using more than one hop variety for bittering the brew?. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/using-up-some-odds-and-ends#post-17119 Wed, 29 Jun 2011 15:53:48 +0000 saracen 17119@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I&#39;ve just realised how many half used bags of all sorts I&#39;ve got so I&#39;d better use some up.<br /> This recipe is basically London Pride which uses the 3 bittering hops, usually in a 90 minute boil. Why they need 3, I don&#39;t know, especially as one school of thought says any bittering hop will do as they all produce the same effect. Jury&#39;s out on that one.<br /> I intend cutting the boil to 60 minutes and using the Goldings and Nelsons as post boil, rather than 10 minutes boil for the Goldings. What do you think? Am I mixing anything suicidal in there?</p> <p>Pale Malt. 5 EBC. 3650 grams. 83.5%<br /> Munich Malt. 20 EBC. 240 grams. 5.5%<br /> Crystal Malt. 130 EBC. 200 grams. 4.6%<br /> Caramalt. 30 EBC. 200 grams. 4.6%<br /> Torrefied Wheat. 4 EBC. 80 grams. 1.8% </p> <p>Target. AA 12.97%. 60 mins. 16 grams<br /> Challenger. AA 7.78%. 60 mins. 9 grams<br /> Northdown. AA 7.5%. 60 mins. 8 grams<br /> East Kent Golding. AA 6.8%. 0 mins. 10 grams. (Post Boil)<br /> Nelson Sauvin. AA 13%. 0 mins. 10 grams. (Post Boil)<br /> Dry hop with 5 gm NS + 5 gm EKG</p> <p>Final Volume: 23 Litres<br /> Original Gravity: 1.042<br /> Final Gravity: 1.010<br /> Alcohol Content: 4.2% ABV<br /> Total Liquor: 32.7 Litres<br /> Mash Liquor: 10.9 Litres<br /> Mash Efficiency: 75 %<br /> Bitterness: 36 EBU<br /> Colour: 18 EBC </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/fancy-your-own-brewery-you-might-find-this-of-interest#post-18658 Sun, 07 Aug 2011 22:40:57 +0000 saracen 18658@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>While researching an answer, I stumbled across this. It makes fascinating reading and shows just how simple, and cheap, we homebrewers make the brewing process compared to the commercial boys.</p> <p><a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Brew-Commercial-Beer" rel="nofollow">http://www.wikihow.com/Brew-Commercial-Beer</a> </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/pilsner-malt#post-18259 Tue, 26 Jul 2011 16:57:43 +0000 Hamish 18259@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Does anyone have any experience of using Pilsner malt as the main base malt?.</p> <p>From Brupaks guide to grains...</p> <p><em>PILSNER MALT ( Germany, Belgium, Czech)</p> <p>Usually produced from German, Belgian and Czech barley, Pilsner malt can be used on its own, provided the pH of the mash is correct, or in combination with other grains to produce the classic Continental lager beers. The malt is kilned slowly from 50°C to 60°C to completely dry it before it is toasted at 80°C. The inclusion of a small amount (3% - 5%) of acid malt is highly recommended when brewing Pilsners.</p> <p>Colour 2.5 EBC; Maximum Percentage 100% </em></p> <p>I&#39;m quite a lazy brewer, I&#39;ve never measured the pH of the mash, nor the starch end point, I don&#39;t bother with any of that stuff. The only hydrometer readings I take are one at the begining of the fermentation and one just before I bottle. My theory is that if people have been brewing perfectly good beer for hundreds of years without the need to do technical stuff then so can I.</p> <p>However, I&#39;m about out of Maris Otter and quite fancy a 25kg sack something different, so can I wing it as usual or will using Pilsner malt cause mashing problems?. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/boiling-point#post-18272 Tue, 26 Jul 2011 18:07:33 +0000 LORDWALNEY 18272@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi guys, can anyone let me know a bit more about the temperature needed during the boil.<br /> The reason I ask is because my boiler gets to boiling and then switches to &#39;keep warm&#39; which i have measured at 85C. Is this hot enough to get the AA&#39;s out of the Hops and help clear the wort, or does it have to be a full on boil at about 100C. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/boiling#post-18065 Thu, 21 Jul 2011 14:14:56 +0000 Jules 18065@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi<br /> This could be a very stupid question but I am hoping you guys understand!<br /> I am skint - very!<br /> I love brewing my own and have so far used the extract version to great effect. But that is quite expensive especially compared to AG. But I cannot afford a big boiler at the moment - however I do have a 15 litre and a 12 litre pots.<br /> So could I mash the grains in the 12 litre pot using the BIAB method - ie mash at 65 degrees etc then boil the wort to sterilise - and boil the hops in the remainder of the liqour in the larger pot.<br /> Then mix the two in the FV.<br /> Or does the wort and hops have to be boiled together?<br /> Or shall I just try it and see what happens!<br /> Thank you - hope you are not all rotflyho at my stupidity... &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_eek.gif&quot; title=&quot;8O&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/very-confused-brewer#post-17812 Thu, 14 Jul 2011 13:33:28 +0000 davemelsome 17812@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Afternoon all,</p> <p>Slight long winded post - but stick with me and hopefully I will make sense &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_biggrin.gif&quot; title=&quot;:D&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> <p>For Christmas I was given the ingredients to make this Amber Ale recipe (<a href="http://brewingusa.com/recipe_amber.asp" rel="nofollow">http://brewingusa.com/recipe_amber.asp</a>) and a large pot (<a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003DC88FQ/ref=oss_product" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003DC88FQ/ref=oss_product</a>) to make it in. Apart from the an issue with the yeast I was given dying and the only stuff I had to hand was some wine yeast (with nutrient) it didnt turn out too bad - although slightly &quot;Winey&quot; &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_smile.gif&quot; title=&quot;:-)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> <p>Following on from that experience I decided to buy the &quot;The Big Book Of Brewing&quot; - which seems good although slightly confusing with which equipment to use. Thanks to Greg I now have most of the ingredients for the first recipe in the book which is for a basic bitter. In the recipe it simply has &quot;Beer yeast&quot; are there any recommendations on which yeast to use?</p> <p>I have found a process on the forum for BIAB (<a href="http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/biab-explain" rel="nofollow">http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/biab-explain</a>) which I will try - does this work with any recipe? anything I should be aware of.</p> <p>Thanks for your time!!</p> <p>Dave </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/no-longer-an-ag-virgin-#post-17698 Mon, 11 Jul 2011 09:32:44 +0000 Jim 17698@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>hi everyone</p> <p>I&#39;m pleased to say I got my first AG brew day completed yesterday and it all went pretty smoothly!</p> <p>Home made mash tun worked great and really held the temperature well!</p> <p>I was missing a HLT so had to do a bit of sparge bodging from mash tun to FV to boiler and unfortunately all my surface levels were just a bit wrong which meant lots of leaning things over to get the liquids to flow from one vessel to the other but apart from that it all seemed ok!</p> <p>Now just got to wait for the GW Bathams clone to ferment out &amp; get it bottled, can&#39;t wait to sample it!! &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_smile.gif&quot; title=&quot;:-)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/nelson-sauvin-hop-crisis#post-15291 Tue, 17 May 2011 13:56:26 +0000 saracen 15291@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>This may or may not be accurate. It would be interesting to see if Greg has heard the same thing.<br /> I just spoke to a hop supplier and he tells me Nelson Sauvin hops will be available again in September..... BUT!.... they have proved so popular that a large brewery is trying to buy the whole 2011 crop, so, his advice is to keep in touch with your supplier and as soon as they come in, buy a year&#39;s supply. I suspect the same may apply with some other New World hops, so if you hear anything, let us know. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/use-any-bittering-hop-all-do-exactly-the-same#post-17399 Sat, 02 Jul 2011 12:39:28 +0000 saracen 17399@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Is that true?<br /> I&#39;ve heard it said a few times, but if that&#39;s the case, why do breweries use a blend of bittering hops? Look up any brewery website and you can find some of the hops they use, and with the exception of some of the microbrewries producing single hop beers, they all blend. Fullers London Pride; Target, Northdown, Challenger. Greene King IPA; First Gold and Challenger.<br /> I have a brew of my 44 Magnum, which uses Magnum and Citra side by side with my London Pride, and they are distinctly different and it must be because of the hop blend, because the aroma/flavour hop content of both is similar, as is the grain bill.<br /> What&#39;s your experience? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/temp-differences#post-17125 Wed, 29 Jun 2011 16:25:52 +0000 Tony 17125@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi all<br /> Following on from the 60 min boil thread (and Saracen&#39;s comment about brewery mash procedures)....</p> <p>Has anyone ever done two identical brews with a difference in mash temp of say.... 5C? That should be a good difference between fermentables and if all the books are right, one a sweet beer and one a thinner, more alcoholic (and with 5C diff certainly noticeable). </p> <p>BeerSmith (at least my version) doesn&#39;t calculate any difference for temperature so difficult to plan for with the software. I&#39;ve done two <em>similar</em> brews with one at 63C and one at 68C and to be honest, I can&#39;t tell any difference - whereas a &#39;big beer&#39; at 9% will burn the hairs in your nostrils out before it reaches your mouth. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/biab-explain#post-16906 Sat, 25 Jun 2011 11:11:02 +0000 Jules 16906@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi<br /> Already my throughts are turning to ALL GRAIN having received a copy of Mr Wheelers Brew your own British Ales. </p> <p>But a bit overwhelmed by the amount of equipment really so having seen a few posts about BIAB I wondered what the method was and what it replaced.</p> <p>Thank you</p> <p>Jules </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/60-minutes-boil-or-90-minute-boil#post-16817 Thu, 23 Jun 2011 18:47:25 +0000 saracen 16817@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I&#39;ve always believed, largely by reading the works of DL &amp; GW, that to extract the Alpha Acid from the hops and isommerise it properly requires a 90 minute rolling boil. Lately, I&#39;ve been seeing more and more people going for a 60 minute boil. It seems the IBU goes up about 7% with a 90 minute boil, but do you also start to extract some unwanted flavours? Do you get a cleaner bittering effect with the shorter boil? What do you think? Is the 60 minute boil an inferior process? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/bottling-from-cornies#post-16255 Thu, 16 Jun 2011 10:16:01 +0000 Gazz 16255@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi Guys</p> <p>Has anyone tried bottling carbonated beer from their cornie? I&#39;m very interested in trying this but dont want my beer exploding to froth as it comes out!</p> <p>Cheers in advance</p> <p>G </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/orange-peel-notes-in-fullers-beers#post-15443 Mon, 23 May 2011 21:37:55 +0000 Monk 15443@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Can anyone advise where the orange peel flavours come from in beers like &#39;Fullers&#39; ESB and Bengal Lancer? You&#39;d more often find it in things like &#39;Schneider weisse&#39;, so I had it down as a wheat/yeast thing, but I think not if it comes through so nicely in the two &#39;fullers&#39; brews.<br /> Is it the yeast, Grain, Hop, or a more complex combination? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/can-i-brew-gluten-free-beer#post-10101 Sun, 19 Dec 2010 19:39:38 +0000 saracen 10101@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>In these enlightened times when everybody has to have an allergy, a good friend who loves good beer has just been diagnosed with a gluten allergy. Wikipedia has this say about Gluten </p> <p><strong><em>Gluten (from Latin gluten &quot;glue&quot;) is a protein composite that appears in foods processed from wheat and related species, including barley and rye.</strong></em></p> <p>Can I help him by brewing Gluten Free Beer? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/possible-yeast-for-a-breakspear-clone#post-15318 Wed, 18 May 2011 19:06:11 +0000 Nath 15318@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Like the topic dudes.</p> <p>Which should I go for? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/brew-in-the-bag-questions#post-15274 Mon, 16 May 2011 19:39:44 +0000 HopLover 15274@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hello all,</p> <p>On the 5th extract kit in as many months and all has been going well, steady progress made and my brew fridge is about come online &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_smile.gif&quot; title=&quot;:-)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; so I hope it gets bloody hot again soon!</p> <p>I am really interested in this brew in a bag business - it seems like the next natural step. My brew pan can hold about 16 litres and is 32cm in diameter and 28cm(ish) high. Do you think I could do a recipe which required roughly 4.5kg to 5kg of grain in a pan that big? What is the rough comfortable ratio of grain to wort volume?</p> <p>Cheers! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/cask-conditioning#post-15367 Fri, 20 May 2011 22:02:00 +0000 steve300010 15367@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hello i&#39;ve recently won a brewing competition and my local pub have agreed to sell my beer. I am picking up a barrel from them tomorrow and would like to know how long conditioning takes? I understand that you don&#39;t prime the beer as pressure could be fatal... &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_exclaim.gif&quot; title=&quot;:!:&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; also any info on customs and excise duty would be appreciated, I&#39;m not planning to make money from this, it&#39;s purely for feedback and getting my name on the blackboard!!!! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/another-possible-lager-disaster#post-15389 Sat, 21 May 2011 13:59:14 +0000 Bazza 15389@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Aright?</p> <p>I should have learned from past experience; don&#39;t brew any more lager. But did I listen? No.</p> <p>A couple of weeks ago I stuck on a 19L lager brew for the summer. Even when the jubilee clips popped off my wort cooler and the whole garage got soaked I still persevered.</p> <p>Anyway, I bottled it on Tuesday and my heart sank as soon as I smelled it; that same horrible ould medicinal smell that caused my last-but-one lager brew to find its way down the drain, having not improved at all after more than 6 weeks in the bottles. It tastes as it smells; horrible mediciney aftertaste that comes more and more to the forefront over time.</p> <p>I bottled it up anyway. Horrible feeling when you spend 3 hours of your evening bottling something you know in your heart of hearts you&#39;ll be chucking down the drain again in a few weeks. (awwww...boo hoo)</p> <p>So what can it be? The John Palmer How to Brew site blames a medicinal taste on contamination with steriliser, but I&#39;m ultra careful about rinsing steriliser and I use a very weak VWP solution (5 tsps for almost 30L) and rinse the fermenter about 4 times before I&#39;m happy. In over 40 brews this is only the second time this has happened, the first time is explained below. See if you can spot a pattern.</p> <p>The last time I had this happen I thought it was down to steriliser contamination, as I had to rush my wife to hospital half way through bottling. That time I figured I&#39;d messed up with steriliser somewhere in the panic, coming home sans wife to resmume bottling after spending 4 hours in the maternity ward.</p> <p>So what it the common factor in my 2 lager disasters? Youngs Lager Yeast (99p in my local homebrew shop). I&#39;ve used it loads in the past for small (8L) brews but both times I&#39;ve used it for a larger brew it&#39;s resulted in disaster. Both times the yeast gathered in large smelly clumps on the top of the wort. (lesson - ALWAYS USE A YEAST STARTER)</p> <p>2 brews ago I did a 19L lager brew using SafLager fom this site and that turned out lovely: same technique, similar recipe, same sterilisation regime.</p> <p>So, this is to the yeast gurus and lager makers out there? Could I be onto something about this Youngs Lager yeast? Anyone else used it before? I know some of you have been the victims of bad batches of S-04, so could this be something similar?</p> <p>It seems too much of a coincidence that in over 40 brews (using the same sterilisation regime) the only 2 brews to fail in this way have been 19L lager brews using cheapo lager yeast.</p> <p>On the plus side, I finally sampled my Hobgoblin clone out of the barrel last night and it&#39;s excellent! It actually tastes a bit like Hobgoblin! Wooo!</p> <p>Cheers,</p> <p>-Barry </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/summer-lightning-ag-do-i-add-sugar-into-the-barrelbottles#post-15352 Fri, 20 May 2011 16:06:09 +0000 henryallison 15352@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>my all grain summer lightning is almost finished in the plastic fermentation bid so the next step is to rack it off into the barrel and bottles. do i add sugar into the barrel/bottles like you do with the extract kits? if so, is it the same amount? about 40-50g in the barrel and half teaspoon in the bottles? any recommendations of the type of sugar i should use? white, brown, etc?</p> <p>really enjoying the whole process of brewing, understanding how the ingredients work and effect the flavour of the beer. im at uni and you&#39;l be pleased to know im not the only youngen brewing! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/ag1-in-the-bag#post-14560 Fri, 22 Apr 2011 20:29:15 +0000 Anonymous 14560@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Well, it went better than expected. Took photos. Sadly some of the hops were missing from the summer lightning kit that Greg made up so I had no aroma hops for the end only 15 g in the bag not 24 . So what can I do now guys? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/timmy-taylor-yeast#post-14937 Sun, 08 May 2011 09:51:50 +0000 Lol 14937@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I did a AG Timmy Taylors and Hopback Lighting.<br /> I had some yeast in the fridge from last hopback which I used.<br /> I than found I didn&#39;t have any yeast for TT, it was last weekend so i put some bakers yeast in!<br /> Seems to be fermenting (but slow),I read in the book northern yeast need a stir, should I give it a stir?<br /> Be interested to see what anyone has to say.<br /> I hope it work out. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-grain-brew-hobgoblin-need-a-little-help#post-14840 Tue, 03 May 2011 10:32:58 +0000 paddy997 14840@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hello all. I&#39;ve been very busy over the last few weeks brewing my first two extract beers. An amarillo and a summer ale. Neither quite ready but both conditioning niocely.<br /> However I recently purchased a Hobgoblin recipe to make 20L but when the ingredients arrived they were a full grain. Not to be too disheartened I&#39;ve decided to give it a go but require some help with timings.</p> <p>I have the following ingredients;</p> <p>2Kg Maris Otter pale malt<br /> 85g Flaked barley<br /> 80g Torrified wheat<br /> 90g Crystal Malt<br /> 20g Chocolate malt<br /> 33g Fuggles hops<br /> 15g Bobek hops<br /> Safale s-04 yeast.</p> <p>I would appreciate it if anyone could give me details of when is best to add what with how much water and do I mash the wheat and barley together with the pale malt?<br /> I&#39;ve used crystal malt with my summer ale, do I steep this in the same way and add my wort to this?</p> <p>I own two large heating vessels and a huge cool box which I can use and I&#39;ve read up on sparging which I think I understand. I am curious however, is using grain as opposed to dried malt extract give a better tasting beer or could this be made using DME?</p> <p>May I thank you in advance for reading and a big thanks for any posts. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/brupaks-mashkit-bavarian-pilsner#post-10359 Wed, 29 Dec 2010 13:56:16 +0000 simonb_13 10359@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Does anyone know the hop schedule for this? The instructions don&#39;t refer to the hops at all!</p> <p>I don&#39;t even know what the hops are. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/gas-versus-electric-heat-source#post-14617 Mon, 25 Apr 2011 16:01:04 +0000 Monk 14617@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I have burnt out my boiler for the second time, and have decided to go into separates. I don&#39;t want to fit elements inside my 26 litre HLT, as I would like to keep the vessel &amp; heat source separate.<br /> Does any one use an electric hot plate to achieve a rolling boil, or would I need to go for a gas ring? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/maturation-time-how-it-still-amazes-me#post-11336 Sat, 22 Jan 2011 21:52:05 +0000 Nath 11336@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hey peeps,</p> <p>Well I went over the Father inlaws house lastnight as its been a while. He&#39;s 75 years old drinks at least a couple of glasses of wine a day and likes proper ale. Once he accidently hit a donkey in his car because it (and this is in his words) &quot;Jumped out on him&quot;. Anyway thats beside the point. We did a forum beer a while ago useing the same malt but the beer had to be 60ibu and you could use your own hops and yeast .... Actually it was over a year ago!!! &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_eek.gif&quot; title=&quot;8O&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> <p>Here&#39;s the original thread <a href="http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/trhopical-rain-please-advise" rel="nofollow">http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/trhopical-rain-please-advise</a></p> <p>Here&#39;s the recipe:-</p> <p>Batch Size: 20.00 L<br /> Boil Size: 26.63 L<br /> Estimated OG: 1.062 SG<br /> Estimated Color: 10.6 EBC<br /> Estimated IBU: 61.6 IBU<br /> Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 %<br /> Boil Time: 60 Minutes</p> <p>Ingredients:<br /> ------------<br /> Amount Item Type % or IBU<br /> 5.20 kg Pale Malt, Maris Otter (5.9 EBC) Grain 100.00 %<br /> 15.00 gm Magnum [15.70 %] (70 min) Hops 27.1 IBU<br /> 10.00 gm Magnum [15.70 %] (40 min) Hops 15.4 IBU<br /> 38.00 gm Motukea [7.20 %] (15 min) Hops 13.6 IBU<br /> 38.00 gm Motukea [7.20 %] (5 min) Hops 5.5 IBU<br /> 1 Pkgs British Ale (Wyeast Labs #1098) [Starter 2Yeast-Ale</p> <p>Mash Schedule: My Mash<br /> Total Grain Weight: 5.20 kg<br /> ----------------------------<br /> My Mash<br /> Step Time Name Description Step Temp<br /> 90 min Mash Add 13.00 L of water at 73.0 C 66.3 C</p> <p>Now I didnt review it, but I remember that although it tasted ok but nothing out of the ordinary, I do remember that it tasted like 6% but didnt taste like a 60 ibu beer (like punk). Well I drank most of it and I suppose the last bottle was drunk at around 6-7 weeks, which is a fair amount of time for it to mature.</p> <p>Well Imagine my surprise yesterday when I was offered a beer and he brought out a Trohopical! Well I opened that bad boy and was greeted with an awesome aroma of grapefruit and citrus, really really powerful, smelt amazing. I poured it into 2 glasses so I could have half with the ol&#39; man and it was crystal clear, really pale, very bright and slightly over carbonated.</p> <p>After the first sip I was really really suprised, it was really really drinkable, didnt taste like 6% at all, it needed a little more body but my mouth loved the taste of those hops. Magnum is known for clean bitterness and it was true, almose crisp like a lager but with really punchy aromas and tastes also. It still didnt have the mouth-puckering-ness of a 60 ibu drink, maybe hit 45ish ibu&#39;s but I really really enjoyed it, way more that the bottles I drank all that time ago and a lot more than a lot of the recipes that I have done since.</p> <p>A year conditioning really helped this one, and as a tribute I will be doing another soon. Gota do a brown and a Nelson IPA but this is definatly getting un earthed for another go.</p> <p>Sweeeeet. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/naturally-conditioned-bottted-beer-no-additional-priming#post-14119 Wed, 06 Apr 2011 00:40:17 +0000 Monk 14119@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I have transfered my last few brews to a cool stored secondary, while still around 1012 - 1014. Dry hopped, added Isinglass&#39; solution, &amp; left for four or five days.<br /> Then bottled with no additional priming, and brought back to room temperature for a week or more, before moving to a cool store for a couple of weeks. Does anyone have any ideas on the subject of letting the brew finish itself off as it were? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/the-yeast-conundrum#post-14406 Fri, 15 Apr 2011 20:23:39 +0000 Otter 14406@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Gday from the shaky isles and yes she still shakes but no major damage,must admit to keep wondering how you can miss your back door handle to get out your house,one minute its there and then its not,its not a good look!<br /> Anyway peeps yeast is on my mind,so far have used 04 or muntons gold as thats whats available readily over here but have just found a supplier of gear in oz-craftbrewer.co.au-that has a vast range of yeasts and very reasonably priced to get across the ditch to nz,question is what to use?<br /> Hoppy pale ales are my normal thing as my water suits but have recently done a directors clone and dry hopped it with styrians(cos ive got a load fresh from motueka)and was well impressed so reckon the worlds me oyster so to speak but what yeasts to use for different bitter styles,keep dreaming of a pint of hooky,all that fruity spicey tang ummmmmmmmm.Back for a holiday in july just hope i can afford to have a couple! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/when-to-fine-beer#post-13392 Thu, 17 Mar 2011 09:33:43 +0000 mik webb 13392@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Morning </p> <p>ok i forgot to add protofloc or irish moss!!!</p> <p>so when can i fine the beer? - i suspect it wont clear its self and i am hoping to drink this quite young. Its still in the fermenting bin happily bubbling away but when do i add any finings - when i put it in the barrel for conditioning? - but wont that become cloudy again when the secondary fermaentation starts? - or after that in which case surely i&#39;ll loose all pressure?</p> <p>any advice much appreciated</p> <p>Mik </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/secondry-fermentation-priming-and-conditioning#post-12960 Wed, 02 Mar 2011 17:51:19 +0000 Tayport 12960@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi Guys,</p> <p>Just looking for some advice on the best way to secondary ferment, prime and condition my brew (still planning my Belgian Wit).</p> <p>I have been advised to leave my brew for a further 3 days once the FG has stablised to allow the rubbish to settle out... Then transfer into a clean FV and leave in a cool place for 7 days to further help clear the beer... Then prime into keg/bottles and leaving for another 7 days at 21 degrees, before leaving it somewhere cool for 4 weeks to mature.</p> <p>Does that sound about right?</p> <p>Thanks. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/efficiency#post-13072 Sat, 05 Mar 2011 12:53:03 +0000 Paulg 13072@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I hear a lot talked about efficiecy but I&#39;m not exactly sure what it is, why it&#39;s important and how to calculate it.</p> <p>Any help much appreciated!</p> <p>Thanks. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-all-grain-brew-planning#post-12523 Sat, 19 Feb 2011 15:32:19 +0000 Paulg 12523@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi!</p> <p>I&#39;m hoping to have my first ever all-grain brew day this weekend.</p> <p>I recently purchased a brupaks all grain starter kit with the London Bitter mash kit.</p> <p>On the packet it says that it makes 23 litres and has an original gravity of 1.038. The instructions say that I should use 2.5 litres of water per kilo of grain. The packet says it contains 3845g net. That makes 9.6 litres of mash water.</p> <p>I plan to fly sparge but I am not sure how much water to use to sparge. I have read different ideas about sparging and am a bit confused.</p> <p>Please help!</p> <p>Thanks, Paul. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/boil-size#post-12648 Tue, 22 Feb 2011 14:54:30 +0000 Tayport 12648@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi Guys,</p> <p>Am in the process of planning my next brew, but am a little bit confused with regards to my required boil size and was hoping you could help.</p> <p>Am aiming for a batch size of 25 litres and so have calculated that I&#39;ll need around a 37.5 litre boil size based on the below:</p> <p>- 25 litre (batch size)<br /> - 6 litre (loss to grain)<br /> - 2.5 litre (loss to boil)<br /> - 0.5 litre (loss to hops)<br /> - 1.5 litre (mash tun dead space)<br /> - 2 litre (boiler dead space x 2)</p> <p>Does that look right?</p> <p>Seems quite a lot to me, but I&#39;m still finding my feet!</p> <p>Thanks. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/biab-advice-on-how-to-make-a-bag#post-12474 Fri, 18 Feb 2011 10:39:39 +0000 mik webb 12474@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>morning</p> <p>i am going to try the BIAB route to all grain for the next few months - til i can afford the all grain gear - anyhow what size and how do i get or make a bag? - i have a nice big 40 litre boiler coming! so i need one to fit that sort of size</p> <p>any advice would be much appreciated</p> <p>Mik </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/hop-back-lightening#post-12489 Fri, 18 Feb 2011 19:02:03 +0000 Lol 12489@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>It says 9 grams post boil, is this just chucked in at end ?<br /> Do I have to leave a period before I start cooling the wort?</p> <p>cheers<br /> Lawrence </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/advice-needed-please-from-a-noob-in-oxford#post-12201 Thu, 10 Feb 2011 21:49:51 +0000 stuart-c 12201@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hello, another noob here. I&#39;ve been drinking beer for years, but i&#39;m only on my second brew. This time it was a full grain/hop brew, (Hop back) summer lighting as it must be one of my favorite beers of all time.<br /> Just a few question for those of you in the know........ I went though the process yesterday of mashing/sparging/boiling/cooling the wort. so went out to my garage this morning to add the yeast. I took a temperture reading of 15c as i&#39;m using safale s-04 I spread the yeast on the top off the wort...... (and fitted a heating belt also)<br /> About 7 hours later (temperture 17c), and nothing no bubbles. I spoke to my brewing friend and he said to bring it in doors and try to restart the yeast by putting it in the airing cupboard. I&#39;ve also pluged in the heat belt? Can i restart the yeast in this way? If not what are my options??</p> <p>Many thanks, Stuart. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-all-grain-brew-tomorrow-good-things-to-come-hopefully#post-11548 Fri, 28 Jan 2011 21:35:49 +0000 Gun_Plumber 11548@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Well tomorrow will be my first brew day (provided the heavily pregnant wife doesn&#39;t drop tonight). Using GW&#39;s recipe for Fullers London Porter. I&#39;ve put plenty of preparation in this week, so I think I&#39;m all set. I&#39;ll hopefully post some pictures. Just one last question. I&#39;m using a brupak electric boiler, during the boil stage should I keep the lid on the boiler or not?</p> <p>Any last minute tips, advice or encouragment would be most welcome! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/brew-kettle-size#post-12141 Tue, 08 Feb 2011 23:33:02 +0000 sam87 12141@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi guys,</p> <p>Please excuse the noob questions im still fairly new at extract</p> <p>I have been looking into progressing into all grain to wet my feet a little, but I only have access to a 15ltr pot and dont fancy paying the extra price on a bigger pot (like 36.ltr boiling pot for 80.00)</p> <p>My question is would it be possible to brew similar to the extract method and add water directly to the fermenter to top up to the 21 ltr mark or could I drain the wort off and boil twice ?</p> <p>Or alternatively would anyone be able to suggest where i could purchase a High capacity boiling pot i could use on the cooker hob without burning a hole im my pocket ?</p> <p>Thanks</p> <p>Sam </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/temperature-setting-for-heating-the-fv#post-11667 Mon, 31 Jan 2011 17:18:57 +0000 saracen 11667@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I struck lucky last night with E-bay and ended up with an ATC800+ Digital Thermostat and a 100w Aquarium Heater. I didn&#39;t rerally want it until next month, but at £34 for the 2 items brand new I couldn&#39;t really miss it. I only brew 23 lts at a time, so 100w will be plenty.</p> <p>Greg, I&#39;m hoping you&#39;ll see this as you mentioned in a previous post that you use this setup yourself. I&#39;ve been theorising about where to locate the heater and what to set the temperatures at. The heater itself contains a thermostat, so there are 2 settings to think about. This is what I am thinking would be a good setup.</p> <p>1) Mount the heater VERTICALLY on the side of the FV with the temperature set at the MAXIMUM recommended for the yeast in use (eg. 23c).<br /> 2) Tape the ATC800+ temperature sensor to the outside of the FV using an insulated material such as foil covered bubblewrap, on the OPPOSITE side to the heater element.<br /> 3) Set the temperature on the ATC800+ to the MINIMUM temperature recommended for the yeast.<br /> 4) When in use the first time, keep checking the temperature manually and recording the results in case there is a discrepancy between the settings and the actual temperature of the wort.<br /> 5) After 2 days of active fermentation, raise the temperature to a little below the MAXIMUM temperature for the yeast to help in the removal of diacetyl, etc.</p> <p>I know it looks like I&#39;m overcomplicating it, but this way, if something malfunctions, the thermostat in the heater will prevent a complete disaster. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/bittering-hops-and-this-years-shopping-list#post-11629 Sat, 29 Jan 2011 22:30:37 +0000 saracen 11629@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>This year I want to impose some structure and order to my brewing, with the emphasis on producing consistency. I really don&#39;t know whether I agree with this business of &#39;any bittering hops will do&#39;, but I&#39;m willing to try. The next step is to decide which hops to use. I imagine most of you have loads of bags of hops with a few scraps in all of them, just like me. What I need is a list of favoured hops rather than spending a load of money on stuff you&#39;ll be unlikely to use.<br /> So... the first step is to look for a bittering hop. I&#39;ve been looking and come up with a shortlist.</p> <p>Admiral<br /> Apollo<br /> Brewers Gold<br /> Galena<br /> Magnum<br /> Target</p> <p>Comments are invited, please. What&#39;s your experience of these? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/weissbier-and-protafloc-tablets#post-11491 Thu, 27 Jan 2011 14:57:29 +0000 Tayport 11491@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi all,</p> <p>Deceided to dive into the deep end and go for a weissbier receipe for my first all grain brew! Got one quick question though... Do I still need to add a protafloc tablet given that weissbier is normally quite cloudy when served?</p> <p>Apologies if this is a stupid question!</p> <p>Thanks,<br /> Mike </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/electricgas-boiler-sizes-why-25l#post-11362 Mon, 24 Jan 2011 10:57:19 +0000 judasegg 11362@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hey, just curious, new to brewing, but a friend of mine mentioned that he brews AG with a 50L Stainless Pot. Why are the electric boilers only 25L? That seems like it would be way too small, with adding ingredients, boilover risks, etc. I see there are expensive (£150-350) 50L pots available, the fancy ones on this site, or just a plain pot...</p> <p>However, for $75, the plastic boilers seem the best option, also for me my gas hob takes like a year to boil a cup of water (I actually boil water in kettle and then put in pot on stove, when making pasta etc)...but how come I never see 33L/50L versions of those? Seems like, with displacement from hops, and to avoid boilovers, you&#39;d only be able to get 16-18L in those 25L boilers, so you&#39;d what, top up the boiler, or top up FV? </p> <p>Strange, for me that was the first question, after reading instructions on here to top up FV to 23L, was thinking that for AG you&#39;d want ~23L of wort, which wouldn&#39;t work well in 25L boiler, and why I can&#39;t seem to see any that are 33L/50L, clearly I can&#39;t be the first person that thought of this? </p> <p>I think hop&amp;grape, or leyland have 33L, but it is just FV, not full boiler kit with element and hop strainer..</p> <p>Any input would be great...I think I saw a Brupaks 33L somewhere, with 2Kw element, but no longer sold, for some reason, discontinued on Brupaks site as well. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/details-for-agand-excuse-my-rant-p#post-11409 Tue, 25 Jan 2011 17:48:34 +0000 judasegg 11409@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hey, just finished reading &quot;How to Brew&quot;, and, for a book that is said to be one of the best, there seem to be some really important details (for me, total noob) missing. He goes into crazy details about yeast lifecycles, mashing, enzymes, lique flow rate diagrams, which I read through because I&#39;m keen, but if I wasn&#39;t so keen I would have quit right there, thinking this whole AG brewing business is entirely too complex. After all that detail, he seems to glaze over the ACTUAL brewing process, as in HOW to do it, as a normal human in an average kitchen with massive pots of boiling liquid. Oh, and for god&#39;s sake he uses gallons and quarts, which are not standardized units of measure, which makes me shake with seething rage...ok, rant over.</p> <p>Basically, my reading has gleaned me this:<br /> 1) Boil lots of water to specific temp.<br /> 2) Put water in mash tun with grains, leave for 60 min.<br /> 3) Drain wort into pot.<br /> 4) Put more water into mash tun, and drain again (sparge)<br /> 5) Bring wort to boil, get hot break<br /> 6) Add hops<br /> 7) Use chiller to cool and get cold break.<br /> &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_cool.gif&quot; title=&quot;8)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; Put in FV<br /> 9) Add yeast<br /> 10) Condition.<br /> 11) Drink and enjoy life</p> <p>I guess, for me, being a complete newbie, I&#39;m thinking logistics:<br /> 1) Where to get 50L stock pot in UK, do I go on France ebay? Do I need a tap, etc.<br /> 2) If I use 50L pot, how can I boil that. Do I need to get propane boiler and do outside, as my experience with gas hobs is they can&#39;t boil ever 1 ltr of water without having a lid on, and waiting 100 years.<br /> 3) If I use electric boiler instead, will it be big enough to survive wort+hops+breaks? Why don&#39;t 40-50ltr electrics exist?<br /> 4) While batch sparging (waiting for 30mins then draining again, I suppose), won&#39;t the wort already in the boiler be cooling, potentially to those nasty temps where wild yeasts take hold? Or should boiler be on, boiling away indefinitely, until I&#39;m doing sparging and ready to add hops?<br /> 5) How do I transfer boiling water to mash tun??<br /> 6) Why do people use &quot;fly sparging&quot;? In book he basically says &quot;forget that shit&quot;<br /> 7) What the heck is an HLT? I know its a hot liquor tank, but that doesn&#39;t seem to be in the process anywhere?<br /> &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_cool.gif&quot; title=&quot;8)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> <p>Sorry for the length. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/all-grain-equipment-confusion#post-11395 Tue, 25 Jan 2011 14:58:22 +0000 Tayport 11395@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi All!</p> <p>Having made a few beer batches from various beer kits, I have decided to take the plunge and try my hand at an all grain brew! The only problem is I&#39;m not exactly sure what equipment I need in order to make the leap?!</p> <p>I really don&#39;t mind spending the money to get everything I need to brew a tasty beer, but having trawled through the net I have been left slightly bamboozled with all the different bits of kit which are available!</p> <p>Can anyone please help guide me in the right direction?</p> <p>So far I have a fermentation bucket with lid, syphon tube, hydrometer, long mixing spoon and keg.</p> <p>Any light that anyone can shed is very much appreciated! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/black-malt#post-11115 Tue, 18 Jan 2011 21:41:32 +0000 saracen 11115@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Last weekend I used Black Malt for the first time in a Jennings Dark Mild brew. I have read in GW&#39;s book that Black Malt only imparts colour and it can be left out of recipes without affecting the flavour. The mash I did was an extended mash (fell asleep in the chair!!) of 8 or 9 hours at 66c reducing to 58c, which made no difference to the mash efficiency. As the Jennings was only OG 1031 it is almost fermented out so whilst testing the SG today I tasted some. It has a burnt taste, like over roasted coffee, which I think can only come from the Black Malt. There is 150 gm of Black Malt in a total grain bill of 2,985 gm. What are your views about Black Malt imparting no flavour? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/ipas#post-10604 Tue, 04 Jan 2011 11:40:58 +0000 Gazz 10604@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Happy New Year Fellas</p> <p>This Christmas &amp; New Year I thought I would spoil myself with a load of beers from around the world. Me &amp; a mate purchased a load off &#39;Beers of Europe&#39; in the name of reserch!</p> <p>The IPA&#39;s we got from America were fantastic! Odels &amp; Dog Fish Head just to name a couple. </p> <p>Why is it that every IPA I have tasted from the UK (Bar Brew Dog&#39;s) just taste like a boring bitter??!!</p> <p>Im purchasing more &amp; more these days off these kind of web sites as I find most of our supermarket beers boring as hell with the same taste! Just my opinion &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_eek.gif&quot; title=&quot;8O&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> <p>I also bought a a few from the Sherlenka Brewery in Germany, a smoked lager, smoked wheat &amp; smoked beer, all were fantastic &amp; recomend! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/all-grain-schematic#post-9239 Thu, 25 Nov 2010 11:54:46 +0000 Lol 9239@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I am going to dip my toes and progress to all grain.<br /> A friend of mine has 2 x 9 gall kegs he is going to give me, which would keep the cost down.<br /> I also have a large gas burner that is used for my paella.<br /> Has anyone got a schematic drawing or pictures or advice.<br /> I can add a some temp gauges and get all the pipework &amp; welding done at work.<br /> Can anyone recommend a book or website or give me `ten top tips&#39; before I start cutting and welding! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/where-to-find-out-more-info-on-strike-water-temps-amounts-of-water-etc#post-10862 Fri, 14 Jan 2011 21:50:19 +0000 james 10862@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi. Thanks to everybody who replied to my last thread urging me to go into all grain brewing. I am gonna take the plunge and go for it. Whilst I do have a good idea of the process of all grain ie I need to mash, sparge, boil etc etc. What I dont quite understand is where to find out exactly how much strike water to use or how much sparge water to use. I also don&#39;t know how to work out the temperature for these. How do you guys know this stuff? Is it all done by the brewing software you use or can anybody recommend a book I can buy that explains all of this. I understand that I will lose water to the grain absorbing the water and in the boil but need to know how to compensate for this. I hope this isn&#39;t a really stupid post. Please help. James. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/the-effect-of-different-bittering-hops#post-10602 Tue, 04 Jan 2011 11:00:59 +0000 saracen 10602@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Following on from another post, I&#39;ve heard a lot lately about bittering hops. The general consensus seems to be that it really doesn&#39;t matter which hop you use for the initial bittering, because all you are doing is boiling out the alpha acid and either not extracting, or destroying in the boil, any flavour.<br /> If you think about this, all beers using a single hop process would taste almost the same, with any flavour difference being solely down to variations in the ratio of pale and crystal malt. If this really is the case. why would professional brewers feel the need to use several different hops for the initial bittering, often blending 2 or more? The common ones that come to mind are Golding, Fuggle, Challenger, Target, Progress, Northdown and a few others. Has anyone tried a comparison? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/all-the-gear-no-idea#post-10464 Fri, 31 Dec 2010 23:02:41 +0000 Gun_Plumber 10464@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>After a few successful attempts at brewing from kits and a long standing love of real ale (not to mention the many brewery tours my awesome wife has taken me on) I have decided to have a go at all grain brewing. I have so far managed to acquire or make all of the kit I will need, however despite reading several books I don&#39;t quite feel ready to take the plunge without some tips from people who have (successfully) done it before. Could anyone help me out with a few dos and don&#39;ts? Or better still let me sit in on one of your brew days? I&#39;m based in the Salisbury area. Happy New Year! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/munich-malt-what-usage-ratio#post-10325 Mon, 27 Dec 2010 17:22:43 +0000 saracen 10325@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I&#39;ve seen on this forum that Munich Malt can give a better flavour than Crystal, or at least a different flavour. Can anyone try to define the difference in flavour, and also advise how it is used, please? For example, can it be a substitute for Pale Malt, or is it used as an adjunct up to a certain proportion, say, 20% of the mash? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/all-gain-equipment-help#post-10346 Tue, 28 Dec 2010 19:21:25 +0000 beerlover1983 10346@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Right ive only done one kit my wherry but i think i may head all grain sooner than i thoaght.Seriously considering the Grain Starter Set on this site.</p> <p>I do most of my brewing at my mums garage due to space where i live.So i have time constraints.</p> <p>Im puzzled over Immersion Chiller i understand how it works and what it does but the bit i dont get is how much water do you waste running it through the chiller .</p> <p>How long will the wort take to cool to how much water may have passed through it (that may be how long is a piece of string question)</p> <p>I just dont want to end up giving me mum a massive water bill where ive been using such device. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/brewing-software#post-104 Sat, 10 Oct 2009 09:10:13 +0000 Greg 104@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>What brewing software does everybody use?</p> <p>Personally been using Beer engine for past year or so and really like it simplicity. Might take a closer look at beersmith though as I&#39;ve heard good things. I did download a trail version but haven&#39;t really got stuck in as yet.</p> <p>Is there any software available for Mac&#39;s? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/mash-efficiency-what-can-i-expect#post-9778 Sun, 12 Dec 2010 23:12:18 +0000 clongo 9778@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>What sort of mash efficiency do other brewers manage, my latest effort seems to be about 67% - which seems awfully wasteful and disappointing.<br /> I have seen other threads about soaking the spent grain in sparge water then re-sparging with the collected liquid till it runs clearish. I&#39;ll try it next time but ....<br /> are there any other tips for improving efficiency. I don&#39;t want to use lots of sugar or malt extract to bulk up the sugar content in the boil.<br /> My maths is not great but I think to brew 5 gallons at about 4.5% (not overstrong) I&#39;ll need 11 1/2 lbs of grain - silly or what. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/making-the-switch#post-10132 Mon, 20 Dec 2010 21:20:46 +0000 james 10132@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi all. I have done a few kit brews and have spent the last year or so reading as much information as possible about all grain brewing. I feel I have a good idea of what to do and will be buying an All Grain starter kit from Brew UK in January. Can anybody think of a reason why I shouldn&#39;t go straight from kit brewing to All Grain as I don&#39;t want to mess it up! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/single-hop-pale-ales#post-9994 Fri, 17 Dec 2010 16:25:35 +0000 Hamish 9994@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I seem to be accumulating a few bits and pieces, 115g or 235g of roasted malt of one type or another here (or in the case of Choc malt 550g), 12g or 18g of this and that hops there. </p> <p>I guess eventually it&#39;ll all get used up, in fact I&#39;ve got a couple of brews to do that will use up the Chocolate malt but to try and avoid accumulating more and more odds and ends I&#39;m going to stick to wheat beer and single hop pales. Though how long I&#39;ll actually stick to this is anyones guess!. </p> <p>The pale ale recipe will be a simple one, 97.5% pale malt and 2.5% wheat or Carapils, whichever I have most of as both are used in the wheat beer.</p> <p>The plan is to use either a whole 100g pack of hops or in the case of high Alpha Acid half a pack. If using a whole pack the schedule will be 60g 60minute, 20g 10min, and 20g 0min. I&#39;m not fussy about specific IBU&#39;s, anywhere between 30 and 45, there may be a little tweaking but I&#39;ll pretty much take whatever the hops throw at me.</p> <p>Yeast will be US-05 except when brewing the high Alpha hop recipe for the second time, in which case a little experimentation will be called for.</p> <p>I&#39;m definitely going to try Nelson Sauvin and Styrians, maybe Cascade too.</p> <p>Can anyone suggest some other hops I should try?. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/nelson-sauvin-experiment#post-9390 Sun, 28 Nov 2010 19:46:08 +0000 saracen 9390@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I&#39;m about halfway through a brew using the GW London Pride recipe and replacing Target and Goldings with Nelson Sauvin and adding a bit of Torrefied Wheat to boost the head a little. It&#39;s also going to be the first chance to try out the DIY wort chiller!</p> <p><img src="http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc440/paulws1953/MyBrewery.jpg"></p> <p>As you can see, the terms &#39;brewery&#39; and &#39;kitchen&#39; are entirely interchangeable!<br /> Had a bit of a surprise with this brew. This is the recipe:</p> <p>Finished Volume 18 lts<br /> Pale Malt 3010 grams<br /> Crystal Malt 230 grams<br /> Pale Crystal Pale 100 grams<br /> Torrefied Wheat 30 grams</p> <p>Nelson Sauvin 90 mins 10 gms<br /> Northdown 90 mins 6 gms<br /> Challenger 90 mins 4 gms<br /> Nelson Sauvin 10 mins 8 gms </p> <p>Final Volume: 18 Litres<br /> Original Gravity: 1.042<br /> Final Gravity: 1.010<br /> Alcohol Content: 4.1% ABV<br /> Total Liquor: 26.2 Litres<br /> Mash Liquor: 8.4 Litres<br /> Mash Efficiency: 75 %<br /> Bitterness: 35.8613500404569 EBU<br /> Colour: 21 EBC </p> <p>Now, that all looks OK to me, except that when I tested the SG of the wort, I got 1.050!... not the 1.042 I was expecting. I suppose this can only mean I&#39;ve got a mash efficiency of rather more than 75%. Oh well, what to do now. Do I thin it, or do I put up with a 5.00% brew.<br /> I&#39;ll let you know how that agricultural, heavy-duty wort chiller performs. There&#39;s 10 mts of copper pipe there! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/calling-all-mild-brewers#post-9586 Tue, 07 Dec 2010 19:23:26 +0000 saracen 9586@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Anyone on here familiar with brewing Mild? It&#39;s not a beer I&#39;ve ever had much to do with, but a good friend loves it and I&#39;d like to brew him 10 lts as a thank you for a favour. GW&#39;s book has plenty of recipes but I was wondering if there&#39;s anything I need to watch out for, or any hints and tips that might be relevant? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/tap-water-campden-tablet#post-9634 Wed, 08 Dec 2010 18:13:23 +0000 stuwilliams 9634@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Evening all,</p> <p>Apologies for another water related question. I see there are dozens of other threads already...</p> <p>Brew day coming up this Saturday, and in an effort to trim costs and find out if I can, I&#39;m planning on using tap water. Up until now I&#39;ve just used straight bottled water (90 odd p for 5L from Co-op).</p> <p>So I have now bought some campden tablets. I understand you have to crumble them in beforehand, so wanted to check that i can just fill my boiler up the day before and do it in there? Also going to fill my budget barrel too and do the same, so I should have 40ish L of campdened water to use on the day.</p> <p>Does this sound sensible or stupid? And how many tabs per 20L do I need?</p> <p>Thanks in advance</p> <p>Stu. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-take-2#post-9292 Fri, 26 Nov 2010 11:36:57 +0000 Gazz 9292@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Right I have all my Water readings:</p> <p>Calcium 40 mg/l<br /> Magnesuim 6 mg/l<br /> Sodium 10.8 mg/l<br /> Sulphate 36.9 mg/l<br /> Chloride 18.9 mg/l<br /> Alkalinity (as CAco3) 40 mg/l</p> <p>Comparing to Gregs:</p> <p>Calcium 105 mg/l<br /> Magnesuim 2.2 mg/l<br /> Sodium 8.3 mg/l<br /> Sulphate 12 mg/l<br /> Chloride 18 mg/l<br /> Alkalinity (as CAco3) 271</p> <p>Any ideas how to convert Alkalinity from CAco3 to mg/l??</p> <p>Seems your water is much harder than mine. You mentioned that your pale ales need alot more treatment due to your water hardness, where as my pales are much better than my stouts/dark ales without any treatment.</p> <p>That calculator is a very good tool which I shall be using for my next brew. I dont think I want to get into the treatment any more than this as its a minefield. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/fruit-extracts-in-beer#post-9188 Wed, 24 Nov 2010 10:04:41 +0000 Gazz 9188@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Morning</p> <p>Has anyone ever tried using fruit/dried or even extacts in a brew? </p> <p>I have been wanting to experiment, maybe using some dried elderberrys or rose petals just to give the beer a slight taste. I was also looking at the Oak chips they use for red wine or even the extract.</p> <p>Any info would be great </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/help-and-advice-re-hop-blending-please#post-9199 Wed, 24 Nov 2010 14:53:29 +0000 Tony 9199@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>+1 with the nelsons!</p> <p>I was going to say that NS are the only hops I&#39;ve ever used for bittering that actually impart a distinct flavour - and what a flavour.</p> <p>I&#39;d love to get hold of a rhizome in this country, what a hop to grow! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-advice#post-8977 Thu, 18 Nov 2010 09:07:01 +0000 Gazz 8977@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Well now that i&#39;m into double figures on the All Grain i&#39;ve decided to start dabbling with tap water. I&#39;ve only used bottled water up to now with a campden thrown in.<br /> The first thing I as I understand is to check the ph levels.......thing is that I am slightly colour blind &amp; thinking that papers wont be the way to go!<br /> Does anyone use a ph meter or use any other method...if so any advice would be great. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/grain-brew#post-8739 Thu, 11 Nov 2010 19:06:12 +0000 peter 8739@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>what is the least kit I need to try grain? I love doing the Kits but want to play with the grown ups &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_smile.gif&quot; title=&quot;:)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/planning#post-8599 Sun, 07 Nov 2010 11:43:30 +0000 Tony 8599@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi all<br /> Need your suggestions here! I&#39;m planning on making a Christmas beer - left it a little late due to circumstances *cough - missus* so it will have to be around the 4% area - maybe 4.5.</p> <p>So, taking Varnish&#39;s advice (many thanks, fantastic idea!), I&#39;m going to take the rind of 7 oranges, stick them in a jar with 150ml of JD and 100ml water, seal it and leave in the &#39;fridge for a week. The idea being that the liquid will then added to the secondary.</p> <p>Now (what with it being Christmas and all that), should I do this with a nice crisp, clean pale somewhere around 45 IBU - or a slightly sweeter, darker ale around the 28 to 30 IBU?</p> <p>Love to know your thoughts! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/drink-your-beer-fresh-or-leave-to-mature#post-8565 Fri, 05 Nov 2010 18:31:18 +0000 saracen 8565@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I&#39;m thinking it&#39;s not too late to get a Christmas brew going, provided it&#39;s not something you need to keep for months conditioning. I tried a small sample of beer at a brewery just before it went into the bottles, and it was an exciting flavour being that fresh. I&#39;ve got some London Pride and Wadworth JCB brewed in early August and it&#39;s still fine, but it&#39;s mellowed and doesn&#39;t have that certain.. ZING. The bulk of it was consumed on 18th Sept at 6 weeks from the start of fermentation. I&#39;ve heard you should condition beer for a week per 10 points of OG, making 4 weeks for a 1040 brew, but the commercial breweries seem to work about 4 weeks from start to supermarket shelf. What do you reckon? Would it need to be quite a &#39;light&#39; brew to be consumed young? About SG1035 and IBU 28 to 30? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/a-little-help-with-gws-adnams-bitter-recipe-please#post-8263 Sat, 30 Oct 2010 18:19:10 +0000 saracen 8263@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I&#39;ve been asked to brew a batch of Adnams Bitter, so I looked up GW&#39;s recipe and found a problem that crops up in several of his recipes, ie: White Sugar. This is the recipe:</p> <p>Pale Malt 3050 gm<br /> White Sugar 340 gm<br /> Black Malt 49gm<br /> Boadicea Hops 35 gm<br /> Golding (Last 10 mins) 15 gm<br /> ABV 4%<br /> EBC 26<br /> IBU 33</p> <p>Several of his recipes use sugar, but I don&#39;t see why it shouldn&#39;t be replaced with more malt, cutting down on the Black Malt to compensate the colour. It&#39;s known as a malty beer, so I would have thought the more the better. I know commercial brewers often use sugar, but it&#39;s usually one of the brown sugars, and that I can understand. Does anyone know of a valid reason for keeping the White Sugar in the recipe? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/gws-theakston-best-bitter#post-8376 Mon, 01 Nov 2010 17:49:05 +0000 saracen 8376@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Has anyone else brewed this? It&#39;s only 1038 and ABV 3.8% but it&#39;s a very pleasant drink. I brewed a small batch months ago. It wasn&#39;t all that at the time so I shoved a load in bottles with a bit of sugar and more or less forgot about it. I took a few bottles to a friend&#39;s house when it was about 6 weeks old and it was quite pleasant. Now, 4 months on, I opened a bottle last night and I&#39;m going to get another brew going. It&#39;s nice to have a drink you can sink a few of without falling flat on your face.</p> <p>Recipe<br /> Pale Malt 3680gm<br /> Crystal 210gm<br /> Challenger 20gm 90 mins<br /> Fuggle 10gm 90 mins<br /> Fuggle 10gm last 10 mins<br /> (can&#39;t remember the yeast. Probably S-04, maybe Nottingham. Before I discovered Liquid Yeast!)<br /> OG 1038<br /> FG 1009<br /> EBC 15<br /> IBU 24<br /> ABV 3.8% </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/hop-comparisons-which-have-you-found-the-best#post-8306 Sun, 31 Oct 2010 16:29:23 +0000 saracen 8306@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I have been reading all sorts of info on hops and, as is usually the case with too much input, I haven&#39;t really reached any conclusions. For bittering, in addition to the Fuggle and Goldings, Target, Northern Brewer, Northdown and Challenger seem to be the popular ones, but if you wanted to brew a beer with that massive hop &#39;nose&#39;, which hop would you use? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/soverign-hops#post-8216 Fri, 29 Oct 2010 09:47:55 +0000 Gazz 8216@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Im making a pale ale brew this Sunday and have managed to get hold of some cheap hops (Soverign)</p> <p>Has anyone used these hops before??</p> <p>The last pale ale I made was using Cascade &amp; Progress which turned out great. Dont want to bugger it up if these Soverign are not as good! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/80-90-ale-anyone-know-the-origins-of-the-name#post-7840 Sun, 17 Oct 2010 14:15:15 +0000 saracen 7840@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>In Graham Wheeler&#39;s book there are recipes for Belhaven 80/- (80 shilling) and 90/- (90 shilling) Ales among others. This seems to be a reference to pre-decimal currency being £4 and £4.10 shillings respectively. I&#39;m fascinated about the origin of the name. Could it be the amount of tax paid on a barrel, thereby being more tax on the stronger beer? At OG1070 and ABV 7.6% the 90/- is pretty strong stuff! If anyone knows the origin for sure I&#39;d be fascinated to know. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/help-with-a-wheat-beer-recipe#post-5326 Tue, 10 Aug 2010 12:14:47 +0000 Gazz 5326@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi</p> <p>I need some help for my fist AG Wheat beer recipe, I have purcashed the following ready for a 15l brew:</p> <p>2kg Munich Malt<br /> 2kg Wheat Malt<br /> 100g Hallertauer Hersbrucker Hops<br /> WYeast Activator 3333 - German Wheat </p> <p>Should I plump for 50/50 on the malts?<br /> How much hops should I use on the 90 &amp; 10 min boil?</p> <p>I also have some spare malts such as black,crystal,chocolate &amp; torefied wheat.</p> <p>Any advice would be great</p> <p>Gareth </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/making-wort-instructions#post-7906 Wed, 20 Oct 2010 13:54:33 +0000 mik webb 7906@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Now that my first dry extract beer has been finished and drunk - everyone loved it so that was a great success! - i now have an amarillo in the FV. </p> <p>I am planning my next brew and saw some instructions in a kit that doesn&#39;t have any DME in it so i assume it could be called an AG kit even though its got ground malt barley and crystal malt???? Anyhow it appears that in order to produce the wort from the kits supplied i just need to steep the malt then run a further 2 litres of cold wter thru the steeped grains. Is that right - it wold appear to cut out a lot of the mash tun, soaking, sparging, heater system type thing i thought would be neccessary with any AG kit. Is this an AG kit or is this a halfway house? any advice would be very welcome. </p> <p>here is the part from the instructions i have removed the name of the kit as its the process i&#39;m interested in and i dont think you can get the kit from here - sorry Greg!</p> <p> # Put 3 litres of cold water into the saucepan along with ***** crushed malt from the box kit.<br /> # Heat to 65-70 &#39;C. (Use your thermometer to check the temperature.) Simmer at this heat for 30 minutes.<br /> # Pour the liquid through your sieve or straining bag into another container (either your fermenting container or another saucepan).<br /> # Pour a further 2 litres of cold water through the crushed malt in your sieve and into your chosen container adding it to the heated liquid (This is known as sparging and you have now produced about 5 litres of &quot;sweet wort&quot;). </p> <p>thanks</p> <p>Mik </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/conditioning-ag-brews#post-7189 Mon, 27 Sep 2010 17:11:22 +0000 simonb_13 7189@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>How long should I condition an AG brew? I thought it was much less than brew made by other methods (kit and extract) or did I dream that!? Yes, I know, it&#39;s sad. Dreaming of making beer. &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_redface.gif&quot; title=&quot;:oops:&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/liquid-yeast-advice-please#post-7839 Sun, 17 Oct 2010 14:08:13 +0000 saracen 7839@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Does anyone have any experience of White Labs Liquid Yeast. I used their WLP005, which I propogated and used for 4 batches, with great success. I&#39;m about to do another batch of London Pride from Graham Wheeler&#39;s book and I was wondering if anyone out there has used WLP013 (London Ale Yeast) or any other White Labs Yeasts? There is also Wyeast 1028 London Ale and their 1187 Ringwood yeast. Has anyone used this and propogated them? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/what-temperature-do-you-sparge-at#post-7686 Wed, 13 Oct 2010 17:27:04 +0000 Hamish 7686@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I was speaking to a professional brewer a few days ago, one questions I asked him was <em>what temperature do you sparge at?,</em> he said <em>heat the water to 80°C because you need to stop the enzyme action.</em></p> <p>I&#39;ve read lots of conflicting info on sparge temps but I reckon someone who makes his living from brewing should know what he was talking about and therefore is worth listening to, so 80°C it is for me. His beer is excellent by the way!.</p> <p>As ever with this lark there isn&#39;t always a correct way to do it, just different ways but what temperature do you sparge at?. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/hop-seed-hunt#post-5384 Thu, 12 Aug 2010 10:40:11 +0000 Gazz 5384@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi</p> <p>Does anyone know where I can get Feminised hop seeds? I know a place where you can get the plant but these seem a little expensive @ £15 a pop.</p> <p>I have my own alotment so plenty of space to grow up my runner bean frames. I know that I have missed this years but am planning on doing a load next year as I understand they dont need alot of care as they are a hardy plant. With a baby on the way, time on the alotment next year will be minimal!! Probably just be potatoes &amp; hops!!</p> <p>Cheers</p> <p>Gareth </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-ag-brew-what-have-i-done-wrong-hereoops-caps-on-sorry#post-7749 Fri, 15 Oct 2010 13:16:52 +0000 stee41 7749@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Just sparged my boddingtons (orfys recipe) he reckons after 2 sparges I would be left with 30.5 litres of 1.030 pre boil, I am actually left with 1.020 at 30.5 litres what have I done wrong here, any ideas?..recipe below</p> <p>Brew Type: All GrainStyle: English Ordinary Bitter<br /> Brewer: OrfyBatch Size: 23.00 L<br /> Boil Volume: 30.50 LBrewhouse Efficiency: 80.0 %<br /> Prepare 40.21 L water for brewing<br /> Prepare Ingredients for Mash<br /> 3.30 kg Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain<br /> 0.25 kg Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain<br /> 0.12 kg Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain<br /> 0.03 kg Chocolate Malt (450.0 SRM) Grain<br /> Single: Add 9.66 L of water at 75.0 C<br /> 60 min - Hold mash at 68.0 C for 60 min<br /> Add first wort hops to boiler at start of sparge<br /> Amount Item Type 25.00 gm Northern Brewer [8.50%] (60 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops<br /> -- Drain Mash Tun<br /> -- Batch Sparge Round 1: Sparge with 17.78 L of 77.0 C water.<br /> -- Batch Sparge Round 2: Sparge with 9.77 L of 77.0 C water.<br /> -- Add water to achieve boil volume of 30.50 L<br /> -- Estimated Pre-boil Gravity is: 1.030 SG</p> <p>Boil for 60 min </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/using-yeast-again#post-7291 Wed, 29 Sep 2010 21:55:36 +0000 Neil 7291@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Just a quick question concerning yeast.</p> <p>I&#39;ve read on many posts that yeast can be used again. However, what is the best way to go about doing this?</p> <p>I am sure i have read some where that you scoop it out after the beer has gone then putting it in a jam jar and then in the fridge. How long would that keep for in the fridge? It would be some time before i&#39;d probably use it again.</p> <p>Thanks again...<br /> Neil </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/yeast-for-11-ale#post-7434 Sun, 03 Oct 2010 19:23:04 +0000 Hamish 7434@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>This brings back a few memories. <img src="http://www.gifmix.net/smileys/puking-smilies/17.gif"></p> <p>When I was at college &amp; it was someones birthday we would head over to Baz&#39;s for a few Bonce Blowers. Two pints later everyone was hammered. </p> <p>Found the recipe over at Jim&#39;s, but which yeast should I use.</p> <p><em>Baz&#39;s Bonce Blower 5 gallon batch OG 1110 ABV 11%</em> &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_eek.gif&quot; title=&quot;8O&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> <p><em>HALCYON PALE MALT 9130gms<br /> CRYSTAL MALT 740gms<br /> WHEAT MALT 530gms<br /> BLACK MALT 210gms</p> <p>HOPS 40 EBU boil time 90 minutes</p> <p>GOLDINGS 106gms</p> <p>Add 10gms BRAMLING CROSS and 10gms FUGGLES last 15 minutes.</p> <p>Yeast of your choice probably on of the high alcohol yeasts.</em> </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/is-this-a-stuck-ferment#post-7133 Sun, 26 Sep 2010 17:51:39 +0000 Gazz 7133@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I brewed up an Oatmeal Stout last Monday and used Danstar Windsor yeast. All kicked off very quickly (within 12 hours) and all went fine for the next 24hours. All died down as usuall within 3 days......now for the last 2 days my hydro reading is 1020. Original gravity was 1058.</p> <p>Everything tastes fine with the beer and all seems normal apart from the high reading, any ideas?? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/schwarzbier#post-7356 Fri, 01 Oct 2010 15:34:08 +0000 Hamish 7356@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Does anyone know if German black beer needs lagering?. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/steeping-grains-or-extended-sparging#post-7342 Fri, 01 Oct 2010 12:36:08 +0000 Toombstone 7342@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I&#39;m now a little confused. A colleague of mine has told me instead of steeping his grains in his mash tun for an hour, he pores water constantly through some king of spinning arm for an hour where it&#39;s immediately drained into another pot to start the boiling. He says this gives a better result. Has anyone ideas about this &amp; which one provides better results? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/too-much-hops#post-7135 Sun, 26 Sep 2010 17:59:02 +0000 Gazz 7135@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Can using too much hops give your beer a sour taste??<br /> Done a 10L brew with all my leftover grains 2 weeks ago and went a bit mad with my halletuer hops, the beer has ended up like a wheat beer if anything with a super bitter taste, the kind when your suck on a lemon!</p> <p>Another thing is I ended up maybe using too much yeast, like a packet &amp; half because it took 3 days to get going.....could this contribute to the sour taste?</p> <p>Its cuurently conditioning in its 3rd transfer bucket to try and get rid of as much yeast as possible before bottling. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/49er-1#post-7127 Sun, 26 Sep 2010 17:12:42 +0000 Nath 7127@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Uber impressed with GW&#39;s 49er and I wanted to do a similar one but upping/changing the hops somewhat. What do you think on the following:-</p> <p>--------------------------<br /> Batch Size: 19.00 L<br /> Boil Size: 29.07 L<br /> Estimated OG: 1.047 SG<br /> Estimated Color: 18.0 EBC<br /> Estimated IBU: 36.2 IBU<br /> Brewhouse Efficiency: 74.00 %<br /> Boil Time: 90 Minutes</p> <p>Ingredients:<br /> ------------<br /> Amount Item Type % or IBU<br /> 3.60 kg Pale Malt - Marris Otter (5.9 EBC) Grain 93.07 %<br /> 165g Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L (145.0 EBC) Grain 4.27 %<br /> 80g Wheat, Torrified (3.3 EBC) Grain 2.15 %<br /> 15g Chocolate Malt (886.5 EBC) Grain 0.52 %<br /> 30.00 gm Challenger [7.18 %] (90 min) Hops 31.6 IBU<br /> 20.00 gm Styrian Goldings [4.50 %] (30 min) (AromaHops -<br /> 15.00 gm Goldings, East Kent [6.80 %] (10 min) Hops 4.6 IBU<br /> 1 Pkgs Ringwood Ale (Wyeast Labs #1187) Yeast-Ale </p> <p>Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Full Body, No Mash Out<br /> Total Grain Weight: 3.87 kg<br /> ----------------------------<br /> Single Infusion, Full Body, No Mash Out<br /> Step Time Name Description Step Temp<br /> 90 min Mash In Add 10.10 L of water at 73.4 C 66.0 C </p> <p>So a hefty dose of styrians (mmmmmmmmmm) for aroma (though I may double that figure) and Ive upped the bitternes by 10, (though im unsure about this) and also doubled the goldings for taste. Ive dropped the abv a tad as the 49er tasted like a session beer and after 3 pints my brain told me it was not a session beer but my arm and taste buds told me to continue.......</p> <p>My brain lost on all occasions! &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_cool.gif&quot; title=&quot;8)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> <p>Ive also changed the choclate malt very slightly - 5g or so </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/advice-for-1st-ag-brew#post-4598 Tue, 06 Jul 2010 20:00:42 +0000 Gazz 4598@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi again</p> <p>Just a couple of questions before my first AG brew:</p> <p>Is it ok to do small brews such as 10-15L? I struggle to drink 25L of beer quick enough, plus I like to try different recipes currently with the extract method.</p> <p>Im planning on the batch sparge method for the mash, there seems to be a few decent examples on youtube.</p> <p>Do I treat the water with anything other than the usual campden tablet.</p> <p>Im trying not to make things difficult &amp; confusing as this has put me off taking the plunge in the past</p> <p>Thanks as always!! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/help-with-strong-brew-for-christmas#post-6374 Fri, 10 Sep 2010 21:55:22 +0000 Mr H 6374@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi Guys,<br /> Just sat sipping a bottle of Fullers Golden Pride - a very tasty 8.5%. Thinking this would be the basis of a nice brew for Christmas. Looking at the hops, it contains Target, Northdown and Challenger - think the challenge is trying to balance a nice brew like this.<br /> Trying and playing with beersmith, I have not tried a recipe from scratch but have done the following as a playaround.... Am i on the right track or can you guys have a tinker and let me have some honest opinions. Also what yeast would be needed as quite a strong brew - looking for a finish of around 8.5%<br /> Cheers<br /> H</p> <p>Type: All Grain<br /> Batch Size: 16.00 L<br /> Boil Size: 12.70 L<br /> Boil Time: 90 min<br /> Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00</p> <p>Ingredients</p> <p>Amount Item Type % or IBU<br /> 5.80 kg Pale Malt (2 Row) UK (3.0 SRM) Grain 94.31 %<br /> 0.35 kg Crystal Malt - 60L (Thomas Fawcett) (60.0 SRM) Grain 5.69 %<br /> 40.00 gm Target [11.00 %] (90 min) Hops 34.0 IBU<br /> 14.00 gm Northdown [8.50 %] (15 min) Hops 4.3 IBU<br /> 14.00 gm Challenger [7.50 %] (15 min) Hops 3.8 IBU<br /> 13.00 gm Challenger [7.50 %] (10 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops - </p> <p>Beer Profile</p> <p>Est Original Gravity: 1.086 SG<br /> Measured Original Gravity: 1.086 SG<br /> Est Final Gravity: 1.022 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.022 SG<br /> Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 8.42 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 8.39 %<br /> Bitterness: 42.0 IBU Calories: 842 cal/l<br /> Est Color: 11.7 SRM Color: Color </p> <p>Mash Profile</p> <p>Mash Name: Single Infusion, Full Body, No Mash Out Total Grain Weight: 6.15 kg<br /> Sparge Water: 3.77 L Grain Temperature: 22.2 C<br /> Sparge Temperature: 75.6 C TunTemperature: 22.2 C<br /> Adjust Temp for Equipment: FALSE Mash PH: 5.4 PH </p> <p>Single Infusion, Full Body, No Mash Out Step Time Name Description Step Temp<br /> 90 min Mash In Add 16.04 L of water at 77.0 C 70.0 C </p> <p>Mash Notes: Simple single infusion mash for use with most modern well modified grains (about 95% of the time). </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/left-overs#post-6037 Fri, 03 Sep 2010 13:43:22 +0000 Gazz 6037@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi all</p> <p>I have some left over grain &amp; hops to use up before I put another order in for my Oatmeal Stout. Please comment on the following recipe.</p> <p>Mash Up Your Face<br /> Date:<br /> Gyle Number:<br /> Fermentable Colour lb: oz Grams Ratio<br /> Dried Malt Extract Pale 10 EBC 1 lbs. 1.6 oz 500 grams 23.8%<br /> Pale Malt 5 EBC 2 lbs. 3.3 oz 1000 grams 47.6%<br /> Torrefied Wheat 4 EBC 0 lbs. 10.5 oz 300 grams 14.3%<br /> Wheat Malt 3.5 EBC 0 lbs. 10.5 oz 300 grams 14.3% </p> <p> Hop Variety Type Alpha Time lb: oz grams Ratio<br /> Progress Whole 6.4 % 90 mins 0 lbs. 0.9 oz 25 grams 40.3%<br /> Hallertauer Hersbrucker Whole 2.9 % 10 mins 0 lbs. 0.5 oz 15 grams 24.2%<br /> Hallertauer Hersbrucker Whole 2.9 % 5 mins 0 lbs. 0.4 oz 12 grams 19.4%<br /> Hallertauer Hersbrucker Whole 2.9 % 0 mins 0 lbs. 0.4 oz 10 grams 16.1% </p> <p> Final Volume: 10 Litres<br /> Original Gravity: 1.053<br /> Final Gravity: 1.012<br /> Alcohol Content: 5.3% ABV<br /> Total Liquor: 15.6 Litres<br /> Mash Liquor: 4 Litres<br /> Mash Efficiency: 75 %<br /> Bitterness: 43.6223777748581 EBU<br /> Colour: 10 EBC </p> <p>Any advice welcome<br /> &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_smile.gif&quot; title=&quot;:-)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/crs-and-campden-tablet-water-treatment#post-6201 Mon, 06 Sep 2010 15:11:13 +0000 simonb_13 6201@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I&#39;ve read a few posts and just wanted to check something.</p> <p>I need to add a Campden to the total amount of water I&#39;m going to use and I have the figures for the correct amount of CRS. Now do I add this the day before the brewing or just before I start?</p> <p>Cheers </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/chocolate-malt#post-6235 Tue, 07 Sep 2010 22:47:58 +0000 Hamish 6235@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I&#39;ve got about 700g of Chocolate Malt I want to use up, any recipe suggestions? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/long-winded-newbie-ag-questions#post-6155 Sun, 05 Sep 2010 16:48:39 +0000 gavdee 6155@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi all – Newbie here,</p> <p>OK, now to ask all the questions you&#39;ve probably all answered a million times before, so if not straight answers, then superb links to answers will work just as well!</p> <p>I&#39;ve never brewed before, either from extract or all grain and I&#39;m just going to delve straight into all grain.</p> <p>I fancied it a while back, looked on youtube for some tutorials, found this guy &#39;Chris Knight&#39; really good, but it actually did more to scare me off than encourage me!<br /> <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eIGrsGPVA_Y" rel="nofollow">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eIGrsGPVA_Y</a></p> <p>Then my other half kindly got me the book &#39;The Big Book of Brewing&#39; by Dave Line recently, which got me back into the idea of AG brewing.</p> <p>I&#39;ve since seen this guy:<br /> <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKeEv7UTTP0" rel="nofollow">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKeEv7UTTP0</a><br /> which encouraged me further - i.e, &#39;I could do that!&#39; but I dunno, no disrespect because obviously I&#39;ve never tried it myself, but it seemed a little TOO amateurish for what I&#39;m after.</p> <p>Then finally this guy:<br /> <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABve6NbPNhk" rel="nofollow">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABve6NbPNhk</a><br /> which seems pretty much bang on in between the above two, and somewhere I&#39;d like to aim for in terms of efficient set up, and not trying (yet) to be TOO scientific, although I&#39;m sure that will change when I get into it!</p> <p>So questions about set up:</p> <p>I fancy batch-sparging, so I reckon in terms of vessels, I will need A) a boiler B) a mash tun C) a vessel to collect the run off/s D) a fermenting vessel.</p> <p>I&#39;m going to buy an insulated coolbox mash tun, as I reckon cost-wise, it&#39;s not too much different between home building and buying. Obviously I will buy the FV and the run off vessel, but it&#39;s the boiler that bothers me - I&#39;ve seen an Electrim boiler for nigh on 70 quid for what is essentially a plastic bucket with elements, thermostat and tap attached!</p> <p>Are there any really good, thorough, step by step instructions on building a boiler from scratch? I don&#39;t think I will need a thermostat, because I want to mash in the mash tun.</p> <p>This is how I see the process happening, so correct me where needed!</p> <p>1. Boil water in the boiler, once it&#39;s at the correct temperature, pour from the boiler straight into the mash tun, add the grain, mash.</p> <p>2. Do run offs into the run off vessel</p> <p>3. Add the ran-off wort into the boiler and boil.</p> <p>4. After boiling, cool quick as possible.</p> <p>5, Then open the tap and let the boiled wort into the fermentation vessel.</p> <p>6. Ferment.</p> <p>Obviously the above is a massively basic outline of what I have in my head, but this is more a question of how many vessels I need and whether it&#39;s worth trying to build my own boiler for this batch sparging process, or is there another way?</p> <p>I would actually prefer to use one of those big steel pans to just boil water and wort on the hob, but they cost a bleeding fortune!</p> <p>Weirdly the thing that is bothering me about transferring boiling water direct from the boiler into the mash tun is that those plastic things don&#39;t seem to have decent handles to grip onto while doing it!</p> <p>SO, any links to a boiler tutorial would be much appreciated and then any advice on how many vessels I&#39;ll need for the AG process would also be great - I&#39;m not even getting into fermentation yet - just want to get my set up sorted!</p> <p>Thanks in advance! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/ag-brew-no3#post-5414 Fri, 13 Aug 2010 15:42:30 +0000 Mr H 5414@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Just limbering up with Beer Smith for my next brew. Fancied a bit of a change and decided on a Wit/Wheat beer. My last effort was a Brupaks kit sometime ago which was a dodgy brew - havent had a crack at a wheat for a while and thought i would look at the following recipe:</p> <p>Type: All Grain<br /> Date: Soon !<br /> Batch Size: 23.00 L<br /> Brewer: Howard - Asst Brewer: (probably our cat!!!)<br /> Boil Size: 22.71 L<br /> Boil Time: 60 min Equipment: My Equipment<br /> Taste Rating(out of 50): ?? Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 </p> <p>Ingredients</p> <p>Amount Item Type % or IBU<br /> 2.20 kg Pale Malt (2 Row) Bel (3.0 SRM) Grain 50.00 %<br /> 1.70 kg Wheat Malt, Ger (2.0 SRM) Grain 38.64 %<br /> 0.50 kg Wheat, Torrified (2.0 SRM) Grain 11.36 %<br /> 32.00 gm Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] (60 min) Hops 14.8 IBU<br /> 21.00 gm Coriander Seed (Boil 5.0 min) Misc<br /> 21.00 gm Orange Peel, Bitter (Boil 5.0 min) Misc<br /> 1 Pkgs Safbrew Wheat Beer (DCL Yeast #WB-06) Yeast-Wheat </p> <p>Beer Profile</p> <p>Est Original Gravity: 1.045 SG<br /> Measured Original Gravity: 1.045 SG<br /> Est Final Gravity: 1.013 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.010 SG<br /> Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 4.12 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 4.56 %<br /> Bitterness: 14.8 IBU Calories: 418 cal/l<br /> Est Color: 3.9 SRM Color: Color </p> <p>Mash Profile</p> <p>Mash Name: Single Infusion, Medium Body Total Grain Weight: 4.40 kg<br /> Sparge Water: 10.17 L Grain Temperature: 22.2 C<br /> Sparge Temperature: 75.6 C TunTemperature: 22.2 C<br /> Adjust Temp for Equipment: FALSE Mash PH: 5.4 PH </p> <p>Single Infusion, Medium Body Step Time Name Description Step Temp<br /> 90 min Mash In Add 11.47 L of water at 74.4 C 67.8 C<br /> 10 min Mash Out Add 6.43 L of water at 91.4 C 75.6 C </p> <p>Mash Notes: Simple single infusion mash for use with most modern well modified grains (about 95% of the time). </p> <p>Any tinkering or advice welcome! Added the torrified wheat to aid head retention - more or less needed? comments welcome please.</p> <p>Forgot to ask also - What style would I be looking to do my water treatment to? Nearest on Grahams water treatment calculator I would consider is a &#39;Sweet pale ale&#39; as a target liquor. what do you think or is there anything more precise than this?</p> <p>Got this down as a 60 min boil - is there anything to be gained by changing to a 90 min boil? (other than reducing the hop amount)</p> <p>(Thanks Greg for speedy delivery!!!)</p> <p>Cheers<br /> Howard </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/next-brew#post-5381 Thu, 12 Aug 2010 07:58:47 +0000 Plopleuk 5381@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I am thinking of doing a stout for my next all grain.<br /> id like it to be rich in flavor and quite creamy.<br /> any recipe suggestions? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-2#post-5358 Wed, 11 Aug 2010 11:16:16 +0000 Otter 5358@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Gday from the land of the long white cloud<br /> Finally got me well water test results back<br /> Ca 10.5mg/ltr<br /> Mg 1.1mg/ltr<br /> Na 2.4mg/ltr<br /> SO4 3.4mg/ltr<br /> Cl 2.0mg/ltr<br /> HCO3 36.4mg/ltr-this is confusing as how does it stack up against CaCO3 as a measure of total alkalinity any ideas.<br /> Been playing on beersmith(truly brilliant)but i reckon if i read things right im in the right zone for american style beers but need to adjust for english style bitters .Anyway any advice from out there would be gratefully received<br /> Happy brewing </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/really-bitter-bitter#post-5357 Wed, 11 Aug 2010 09:59:19 +0000 Mr H 5357@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hmmm, this is not good. My first AG - London Pride Clone in the keg has turned very very bitter. When it was young it was very drinkable and i polished off about half a keg (got 10 bottles of this that i havent tried any of yet as i always bottle a percentage of all my brews). After my brew passed the 5 weeks conditioning, it has turned out vile in all honesty. Not to mention i could give away some free samples as a fierce contender to Ex-Lax (yes it really does give you the trots too!) - it should definately be renamed &#39;Old GrumbleBelly&#39;<br /> Any ideas what the hell happened to it? how does a bacterial infection get into my keg? - any tips and advice welcome to prevent a repeat. I&#39;ve never experienced this before! any ideas what it has caught to create such a nasty? It does not smell off and is crystal clear!</p> <p>The only 4) positives are 1) that the bottles may be ok - will crack open one this evening and let you know the result - 2) I&#39;ve just ordered some goodies from Greg to make a Summer Witt bier (yum!) 3) Im in a good mood as i&#39;ve just had a holiday in the Maldives! 4) On arrival home, my Exmoor Gold clone was ready and it is flippin lovely and a top tasting brew!</p> <p>Hope your all keeping well and brewing well?<br /> Regards<br /> Howard </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/56-ale-recipe#post-5192 Mon, 02 Aug 2010 19:03:37 +0000 Neil 5192@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Not sure if everyone has got the What&#39;s Brewing Magazine from Camra just yet so i apologise if i am spoiling it for you now.</p> <p>In their 1/4 Beer magazine they&#39;re looking back at some old beer recipes that have disappeared one of them being 56/- Mild.</p> <p>Mash 500gms of Pale Malt in 1.5ltrs of water for 60 minutes. Sparge with 2ltrs water, Into this steep 550gms wheat flour, 55gms of crystal malt and 30gms of black malt at 60c (140f) for 30 minutes. Hot wash with 1.5ltrs of water. Add 20gms of Fuggles in a muslin bag and 500gms of DME loose. Boil for 60 minutes to around 1.060. Leave for a month. </p> <p>How does this recipe sound you?</p> <p>2 Questions came out of this. </p> <p>1. What is wheat flour? Would it be exactly what it says on the tin? I.E. What you&#39;d find in the baking area?<br /> 2. What is hot washing? I&#39;ve never heard of that in brewing before. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-for-all-grain-brews#post-5281 Sat, 07 Aug 2010 20:36:29 +0000 autofire 5281@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>As autumn approaches and things start to cool down a bit I am getting my head around doing my first all grain brew and my thoughts are turning to, amongst other things, water treatment.<br /> My water which originates from chalk wolds in East Yorkshire is quite hard and what I would like to do is brew my first few batches with as little &quot;treatment&quot; as possible so that I get an idea of what my beers taste like from a baseline perspective.<br /> What I do intend to do however is boil or campden my liquor just to get shut of the chlorine and go with that as a start point.<br /> What are your opinions on the above, would you just boil, just campden or both. Would you campden before boiling or after, silly questions I know but it might help others as well as an inexperienced me.</p> <p>Cheers folks, Steve </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/maximum-6-litre#post-5265 Sat, 07 Aug 2010 07:32:20 +0000 Lol 5265@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Have done the summer ale and very pleased, I used a large pot for the boil which was just about big enough. </p> <p>I&#39;d like to do something different but don&#39;t have a 20 or 30 lt boiler.</p> <p>Has anyone got any recipes that are suitable.</p> <p>Regards</p> <p>Lol </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/ag-equivalent-to-summer-ale#post-5264 Sat, 07 Aug 2010 00:03:38 +0000 Freddy 5264@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Thinking of trying an AG equivalent to the summer ale as my first AG experiment.<br /> Any idea of how much malt I should use?<br /> Should the boil time and the timings of adding the hops etc. remain the same as in the extract version?<br /> Answers very much appreciated, as new to the whole AG thing.<br /> Thanks </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/increasing-volume#post-5197 Mon, 02 Aug 2010 21:18:13 +0000 stuwilliams 5197@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Evening all.</p> <p>Planning a brew this weekend, if Sunday isnt a write off after the GBBF. The last two I have done, I have been a bit disappointed with the final volume I get from the boiler. Think this is partly due to dead space, volume taken by hops, and not being able to drain every last little drop out. So anyway, I can live with this, but wondered if there is a simple rule of thumb about adding water and spray malt to keep the gravity the same, and just increase the volume.</p> <p>The last Near a Nevada brew I did tastes amazing, and I&#39;m gutted I only got 36 odd bottles from it. I&#39;d have liked to have added say 5 Litres of water at the end, but how much spray malt should I have added? Or does it depend on the gravity of the beer at that point?</p> <p>I guess I&#39;m asking if there is a proper dilution rate for water and spray malt to make it have no effect up or down on the gravity.</p> <p>Or am I being really thick... Have a feeling I should know the answer to this.</p> <p>Cheers in advance. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/rauchbier#post-5002 Fri, 23 Jul 2010 10:30:52 +0000 Gazz 5002@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi</p> <p>I have recently purchased a Brupak Rauchbier mashing kit (cheers Greg) and shall attepmt it for my 2nd AG this weekend. The only problem is that the instructions doest instruct on Hop quantities start &amp; finish.</p> <p>Should I just dump them all in at the start or maybe take out 10%ish of the hops and 10min boil them???</p> <p>Any advice is much appreciated </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/my-first-ag-brew-raspberry-blower#post-4135 Sat, 19 Jun 2010 21:48:49 +0000 Neil 4135@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I am well chuffed i made my first AG Brew today hopefully, a raspberry wheat beer will be the end result but we will have to wait and see.</p> <p>But i was really pleased with how it went i could well be hooked... I&#39;ve added a few pictures hopefully,</p> <p><img src="http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac266/Beermonkey1/DSC03685.jpg" /></p> <p><img src="http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac266/Beermonkey1/DSC03687.jpg" /></p> <p><img src="http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac266/Beermonkey1/DSC03686.jpg" /></p> <p><img src="http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac266/Beermonkey1/DSC03681.jpg" /></p> <p><img src="http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac266/Beermonkey1/DSC03680.jpg" /> </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/cherry-broken#post-4808 Sat, 17 Jul 2010 10:29:06 +0000 Gazz 4808@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi All</p> <p>Completed my first AG brew yesterday, few mistakes but I think it will turn out fine!</p> <p>My homemade mash tun was a disaster as it wasnt draining the wort properly so I kind of messed the sparging up along with the kitchen floor! I did however manage to seperate the wort from the grain.<br /> I recorded a reading of 1030 on the wort but im sure the temp was still around the 40C mark.<br /> I decided to carry on even though I botched the sparge up.<br /> After my boil I had a reading of 1048 to my surprise, The given reading on beer engine was 1051, so not far off.<br /> I used Notts yeast for the first time and suspended it in a little wort for 15mins before dumping the lot in.<br /> I woke up this morning to find it bubbling away like mad only after 14 hours. Maybe it&#39;l turn out ok after all!</p> <p>Back to the drawing board on my sparging techniques! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/damn-damn-damn-damn#post-4832 Sat, 17 Jul 2010 18:06:22 +0000 Nath 4832@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Well after hearing good things about tony&#39;s tribute clone i thought I would stock up with some goodies (ta Greg) and last night I sorted out all the grain and hops n water n stuff.</p> <p>Went to work for 6am till 11am got home and found my hydrometer broken so got the mash on and cycled to town to get another. 1st bad thing. Then when I added the first bit of hops I noticed something black fall in and I though it was just a &quot;toasted hop&quot; so thought nothing of it.</p> <p>So the brew is 80c and im steeping some wicked smelling bobek and williamette when I start to stir and pull out the black thing which looks like rubber, sure enough half melted black weird stuff. God knows where it came from but I hope it don&#39;t ruin the beer. This would be my first casualty so nott to bad of a ratio.</p> <p>Still, I managed a brew and Im doing a styrian stunner next week so all is good. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/grain-variety#post-4668 Sat, 10 Jul 2010 00:00:57 +0000 Otter 4668@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Gday from nz,<br /> Being now settled farming here and continuing a long association with growing barley for maltsters id like to pick some brains so here goes.<br /> Farming in uk used to grow halycon in the old days then onto cellar and optic and also some maris otter,nitrogens varying from 1.45 for otter up to 2.0 for some cellar,otter used to go to tuckers and in my humble opinion still is the best malt available,here in nz cellar is grown by us but also tavern but nitrogens are a lot higher around 2.2,the embryo microbrewery industry even imports otter malt so i suppose it tells you something.<br /> Point is my mash efficiency is low compared to what i used to get in uk,ph of water pretty similar,using tried and tested method and now have sorted crushing problem(malt sold here uncrushed but local feed mill rescued me,thanks greg 4 advice but considerably cheaper)so was thinking perhaps higher nitrogen malt might be a factor.Is there a way of working out a percentage increase in weight according to nitrogen content perhaps.Normally brews are my own recipes but do use brewery recipes from gw and rp&#39;s real ale books.</p> <p>Not life threatening i know and i still brew superb beer but it just annoys me,must be the farmer in me!<br /> Cheers people happy brewing<br /> otter </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/next-brew-using-only-late-hops-no-bittering#post-4479 Wed, 30 Jun 2010 20:23:13 +0000 Nath 4479@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi all.</p> <p>I got some Aurora hops from greg which are from the styrian family and I was having a play in beersmith when I wondered as these hops have that great aroma and a fiar punch (8.1aa) why not just late and dry hop?</p> <p>Heres a comparison:-</p> <p>Recipe Specifications<br /> --------------------------<br /> Batch Size: 23.00 L<br /> Boil Size: 35.00 L<br /> Estimated OG: 1.049 SG<br /> Estimated Color: 9.5 EBC<br /> Estimated IBU: 24.1 IBU<br /> Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00 %<br /> Boil Time: 90 Minutes</p> <p>Ingredients:<br /> ------------<br /> Amount Item Type % or IBU<br /> 5.00 kg Pale Malt - Marris Otter (5.9 EBC) Grain 98.04 %<br /> 0.10 kg Wheat Malt, Ger (3.9 EBC) Grain 1.96 %<br /> 20.00 gm Aurora [8.10 %] (Dry Hop 3 days) Hops -<br /> 20.00 gm Aurora [8.10 %] (75 min) Hops 17.2 IBU<br /> 40.00 gm Aurora [8.10 %] (30 min) (Aroma Hop-SteepHops -<br /> 20.00 gm Aurora [8.10 %] (12 min) Hops 6.9 IBU<br /> 1 Pkgs Nottingham (Danstar #-) Yeast-Ale </p> <p>and the late hop:-</p> <p>Recipe Specifications<br /> --------------------------<br /> Batch Size: 23.00 L<br /> Boil Size: 35.00 L<br /> Estimated OG: 1.049 SG<br /> Estimated Color: 9.5 EBC<br /> Estimated IBU: 23.9 IBU<br /> Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00 %<br /> Boil Time: 90 Minutes</p> <p>Ingredients:<br /> ------------<br /> Amount Item Type % or IBU<br /> 5.00 kg Pale Malt - Marris Otter (5.9 EBC) Grain 98.04 %<br /> 0.10 kg Wheat Malt, Ger (3.9 EBC) Grain 1.96 %<br /> 20.00 gm Aurora [8.10 %] (Dry Hop 3 days) Hops -<br /> 80.00 gm Aurora [8.10 %] (10 min) Hops 23.9 IBU<br /> 1 Pkgs Nottingham (Danstar #-) Yeast-Ale </p> <p>Now as far as I can see its basically the same ibu and has more late hop additions, so what could go wrong?</p> <p>That last bit was the question by the way! What could go wrong?</p> <p>Should I still do a 90min boil, 80 min with nothing and then add in the last 10, or after a good hot break, say 25-30mins then chuck em in for 10. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/photos-of-sharps-citrus-golden-ale#post-4480 Wed, 30 Jun 2010 20:34:28 +0000 Nath 4480@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Well here it is. I love it and so do a number of my mates and all of my family. Its a really nice summer drink.</p> <p>Seriously as soon as it hits your mouth its gone! Great aroma from the cascade and styrians. Its well worth doing. In fact Im off to get another!</p> <p>Piccys - </p> <p><img src="http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx39/nath812/IMAG0839.jpg" /></p> <p><img src="http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx39/nath812/IMAG0838.jpg" /></p> <p><img src="http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx39/nath812/IMAG0837.jpg" /> </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-and-beer-colourclarity#post-4316 Sat, 26 Jun 2010 14:40:28 +0000 Nath 4316@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hey peeps, hope everyone is enjoying the sun with a few beers! (I know I am)</p> <p>Since starting water treatments one of the things I have noticed most (apart from better tasting beer!) is the colour of my beer. My pale ales are really really pale. I wish I had a comparison shot but unfortunatly the only beer I have before treatments is my lager.</p> <p>Take my last 2 pales - they are crystal clear (but dont look sparkingly clear and look less ebc than pre treatment beer. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/planning-big-beer-small-beer#post-4167 Sun, 20 Jun 2010 12:44:18 +0000 Tony 4167@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>HI all<br /> I&#39;m planning my next brew (well .. I&#39;m always planning my next brew..) and thinking an overnight mash for a 50 ltr brew. Big beer up front, straight out and into the boiler - no sparge. Then whilst that is boiling, sparge the grains for the small beer. So, 2 x 25 ltr batches, the second being just the sparge.</p> <p>Will aim for a high hopped strong beer for the first and a light crisp quaffing ale for the second.</p> <p>What are your thoughts, is this possible? I was reading a while back about big and small beers - or table beers. This this will work? I suppose I could add some sugar to the second if the reading is a bit low...? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/another-first-ag-brew#post-3959 Thu, 10 Jun 2010 21:00:50 +0000 Mr H 3959@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Good evening to you all from a very happy chap!<br /> I listened to the advice from some of you following my ginger beer brew up and took the AG plunge! I knocked up my own mash tun, bought an Electrim boiler, followed by a wort chiller and sparging arm (latter two eBay specials!)<br /> I have done the beerkits and was getting rather bored as there seemed to be hardly any skill needed other than sterilising my fermenter!. AG seemed like a nice challenge to get my brain into gear and so on Tuesday it was my first brewday - following a visit to Salisbury on Monday to get a hop strainer and water treatment (which i didnt have much of a clue about) - Big thanks to Greg for sorting me out the various bits, great advice and a nice reassurance for doing my AG brew! - Can&#39;t thank you enough!</p> <p>I used Beersmith and ran Dave Lines recipe for London Pride through it - I tweaked it a little as the IBU&#39;s showed over 50 - so i knocked them down to 40 (should have been 35 bar my schoolboy error!) Not sure about IBU&#39;s but style guide recommended 25-40 IBU for this sort of bitter) added a little bit extra (300g of crushed pale malt) just to give it a little more strength.</p> <p>3.80 kg Pale Malt (2 Row) UK (3.0 SRM) Grain 87.16 %<br /> 0.25 kg Caramel/Crystal Malt - 30L (30.0 SRM) Grain 5.73 %<br /> 25.00 gm Fuggles [4.50 %] (105 min) Hops 12.3 IBU<br /> 45.00 gm Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] (105 min) Hops 24.5 IBU<br /> 10.00 gm Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] (Dry Hop 3 days) Hops -<br /> 15.00 gm Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] (15 min) Hops 3.7 IBU<br /> 0.31 kg Dememera Sugar </p> <p>Batch Size: 23.00 L </p> <p>Boil Size: 21.70 L Asst<br /> Boil Time: 105 min Equipment: Brew Pot (5 Gallon) - actually Electrim boiler!<br /> Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 (think i achieved this!) </p> <p>Ingredients</p> <p>Amount Item Type % or IBU<br /> 3.80 kg Pale Malt (2 Row) UK (3.0 SRM) Grain 87.16 %<br /> 0.25 kg Caramel/Crystal Malt - 30L (30.0 SRM) Grain 5.73 %<br /> , East Kent [5.00 %] (Dry Hop 3 days) Hops -<br /> 15.00 gm Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] (15 min) Hops 3.7 IBU<br /> 0.31 kg Dememera Sugar (2.0 SRM) Sugar 7.11 % </p> <p>Beer Profile (including temp adjust for Hydrometer)</p> <p>Est Original Gravity: 1.045 SG<br /> Measured Original Gravity: 1.047 SG<br /> Est Final Gravity: 1.012 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.010 SG (This is my wishful thinking!!!!)<br /> Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 4.29 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 4.82 %<br /> Bitterness: 40.5 IBU<br /> Est Color: 5.7 </p> <p>Started the day well (always good when the missus is out!)</p> <p>Preheated the mash tun and got the 4.36kg of grain into 11L of mash water which dropped nicely to 66C when stirred in - covered and checked after an hour dropped to 64c so was chuffed with my homemade tun (however some some of the water i preheated had leaked into the void between the inner and outer skin of the coolbox) Luckily this did not make any difference to the finished product! as the water level remained the same as the mash level and did not leak from the coolbox at all - phew!) Left this for 20 mins and added water for a 10 min mashout - thought not a bad idea! Fly sparged at 76c with 11.90L water. Looking at my figures and SG I think i hit very slightly over the 75% efficiency - well pleased for first attempt!<br /> Got my wort into the boiler and had a 21.70L preboil level - Got a nice rolling boil and added my hops<br /> 25.00 gm Fuggles<br /> 45.00 gm Goldings </p> <p>Aimed my boil for 90 mins and then to add 15g Goldings &amp; steep for 15 mins after turning off the boiler - just after I turned off the boiler on 90 mins i added the 15g olding and went indoors - Bugger! there was the Irish Moss still on the table! Boiler back onto a rolling boil and added the Irish Moss for the extra 15 mins (so the steeping Goldings got boiled for 15 mins too). hence my 105 mins boil time!</p> <p>Used my Wort chiller - what a beast! very impressed getting from boiling to 22c in around 25 - 30 mins. Checked my SG - now 1.061 - topped up to 23L target and hit 1.047 (target 1.045) Talk about beginners luck!!</p> <p>Pitched my ale yeast starter which my local homebrew shop recommended - She is bubbling a good one through the airlock! lovely cover over the ale (will experiment with different yeast&#39;s as i progress)<br /> Been in fermenter sice Tues teatime - I just had to sample a small spoonful tonight (quality control i told the missus!) My god it tastes incredible - I can see why you guys are so passionate about AG - If this is what its like now, I cant wait for the finished product - does Greg sell fermentation bin padlocks?</p> <p>Can anyone tell me is it worth racking off the beer after 4 days - I have never done this with the kits and have always had good results - opinions welcome!<br /> Also another question i have is some recipes in Dave Lines books call for Barley Syrup - I believe this is near impossible to get - any workaround or substitution for this?<br /> IBU&#39;s - higher number - is beer more bitter or hoppy? prefer nothing too bitter but nice and hoppy flavoured - any hints or tips advice welcome!</p> <p>Eventually look to make own recipes but for now im well happy and cant wait for my next brewday!! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/to-dry-hop-or-notor-what#post-4025 Tue, 15 Jun 2010 20:40:44 +0000 Nath 4025@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Well peeps the tee-tote-ale recipe has finished at 6.4% and is fairly tasty but I wanna dry hop but only have brewer&#39;s gold left. I just wanna bit of a bang with this one as its a high percentage beer and I want an aroma to go with it. Should I :-</p> <p>a) use 20g brewers gold</p> <p>b) buy some better aroma hops from greg and do it tommorow</p> <p>c) do nothing</p> <p>What do you all think? I quite like the smell of the brewers gold but I know many people only use it as a bittering hop. If I do go for a new hop what do you reckon? Nelson Sauvin, Cascade, Simcoe, urgh..... decisions decisions!</p> <p>here is the recipe by the way :-<br /> Batch Size: 22.00 L<br /> Boil Size: 32.00 L<br /> OG: 1.063 SG<br /> FG: 1.014<br /> Estimated Color: 16.0 EBC<br /> Estimated IBU: 46.1 IBU<br /> Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00 %<br /> Boil Time: 75 Minutes</p> <p>abv: 6.40%<br /> Ingredients:<br /> ------------<br /> Amount Item Type % or IBU<br /> 5.75 kg Pale Malt, Maris Otter (5.9 EBC) Grain 90.13 %<br /> 0.25 kg Munich Malt (20.0 EBC) Grain 3.98 %<br /> 0.21 kg Wheat Malt, Ger (3.9 EBC) Grain 3.23 %<br /> 0.17 kg Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L (145.0 EBC) Grain 2.66 %<br /> 12.00 gm Pilgrim [10.90 %] (75 min) Hops 12.5 IBU<br /> 30.00 gm Brewer&#39;s Gold [8.40 %] (30 min) Hops 17.7 IBU<br /> 30.00 gm Brewer&#39;s Gold [8.40 %] (20 min) Hops 13.9 IBU<br /> 34.00 gm Cascade (NZ) [7.60 %] (2 min) Hops 2.0 IBU<br /> 1.00 tsp Irish Moss (Boil 15.0 min) Misc<br /> 1 Pkgs SafAle English Ale (DCL Yeast #S-04) Yeast-Ale </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/maturation-time#post-3746 Thu, 03 Jun 2010 07:34:04 +0000 Plopleuk 3746@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>i am going to order the extract kit for way to Amarillo ale to leave fermenting whilst i go away.<br /> my question is about the attempt at this beer with grains, i have just barreled it up and was wondering what you would recommend as a maturation period? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/just-about-to-build-my-own-mash-tun#post-322 Sat, 24 Oct 2009 20:07:25 +0000 Gazz 322@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi!</p> <p>Am just about to build my own mash tun to convert to AG.</p> <p>I shall buy a large cooler box and fit a bore valve tap I pinched from site! I shall then connect the inner thread to a braided stainless steel tube I also pinched from the mechanical boys shed!</p> <p>At this stage I dont have the money to buy by own (too tight) Would this be ok for my first mash tun???????????</p> <p>Thanks Again</p> <p>Gazz </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-ag-brew-complete#post-3442 Sun, 16 May 2010 17:37:51 +0000 stuwilliams 3442@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Afternoon all, </p> <p>Well, I did it. Finally got round to having a crack at this AG malarky. No major dramas, but a couple of niggles. Firstly, I didn&#39;t get anywhere near the pre boil gravity I was expecting. I&#39;ve just punched the numbers into Beeralchemy and I think it puts my efficiency at something like 50%. Not the end of the world, as I was aiming quite high for exactly this reason, but what&#39;s the likely cause? My mash temp was good I think.</p> <p>Secondly, and this is just an observation, the SS braid strainers in both my tun and boiler are rubbish. The flow rate at the end of the boil was crap so it took an age to get into the FV. I need to replace both with a copper tube matrix type affair I think.</p> <p>Thanks to all who&#39;ve answered my questions and offered advice over the months. I wouldn&#39;t have got this far without you.</p> <p>Recipe below. I didn&#39;t really know what I was doing, so this is really just a stick in the ground to know how to improve &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_smile.gif&quot; title=&quot;:-)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> <p>Stu.</p> <p>Expected Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.052 SG<br /> Expected OG: 1.057 SG<br /> Expected FG: 1.015 SG<br /> Expected ABV: 5.6 %<br /> Expected IBU (using Tinseth): 53.0 IBU<br /> Expected Color (using Morey): 12.3 EBC<br /> BU:GU ratio: 0.93<br /> Mash Efficiency: 75.0 %<br /> Boil Duration: 60.0 mins<br /> Fermentation Temperature: 20 degC </p> <p>Fermentables</p> <p>UK Maris Otter 5.000 kg 100.0 % In Mash/Steeped</p> <p>Hops<br /> UK Challenger5.1 % 35 g 19.3 Loose Whole Hops 60 Min From End<br /> UK Fuggle 3.8 % 35 g 14.2 Loose Whole Hops 60 Min From End<br /> UK Golding 6.8 % 35 g 19.6 Loose Whole Hops 30 Min From End<br /> UK Golding 6.8 % 25 g 0.0 Loose Whole Hops At turn off<br /> UK Fuggle 4.5 % 15 g 0.0 Loose Whole Hops At turn off</p> <p>Other Ingredients<br /> Irish Moss In Boil</p> <p>Yeast<br /> DCL S-04-SafAle</p> <p>Mash Schedule<br /> Single Step Infusion (65C/149F) </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/2-recipies-for-you-to-look-at#post-3759 Thu, 03 Jun 2010 16:24:14 +0000 Nath 3759@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Recipe: tee-tot-ale<br /> Brewer: Nath<br /> Asst Brewer:<br /> Style: English IPA<br /> TYPE: All Grain<br /> Taste: (35.0) </p> <p>Recipe Specifications<br /> --------------------------<br /> Batch Size: 23.00 L<br /> Boil Size: 31.03 L<br /> Estimated OG: 1.061 SG<br /> Estimated Color: 16.0 EBC<br /> Estimated IBU: 55.0 IBU<br /> Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00 %<br /> Boil Time: 75 Minutes</p> <p>Ingredients:<br /> ------------<br /> Amount Item Type % or IBU<br /> 5.75 kg Pale Malt, Maris Otter (5.9 EBC) Grain 90.27 %<br /> 0.25 kg Munich Malt (20.0 EBC) Grain 3.92 %<br /> 0.20 kg Wheat Malt, Ger (3.9 EBC) Grain 3.14 %<br /> 0.17 kg Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L (145.0 EBC) Grain 2.67 %<br /> 25.00 gm Pilgrim [10.90 %] (75 min) Hops 25.3 IBU<br /> 25.00 gm Brewer&#39;s Gold [8.40 %] (30 min) Hops 14.4 IBU<br /> 25.00 gm Brewer&#39;s Gold [8.40 %] (20 min) Hops 11.3 IBU<br /> 30.00 gm Cascade (NZ) [7.60 %] (5 min) Hops 4.0 IBU<br /> 1 Pkgs SafAle English Ale (DCL Yeast #S-04) Yeast-Ale </p> <p>Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Light Body, Batch Sparge<br /> Total Grain Weight: 6.37 kg<br /> ----------------------------<br /> Single Infusion, Light Body, Batch Sparge<br /> Step Time Name Description Step Temp<br /> 75 min Mash In Add 16.63 L of water at 68.9 C 63.0 C </p> <p> and</p> <p>Recipe: S-ale<br /> Brewer: Nath<br /> Asst Brewer:<br /> Style: American IPA<br /> TYPE: All Grain<br /> Taste: (35.0) </p> <p>Recipe Specifications<br /> --------------------------<br /> Batch Size: 23.00 L<br /> Boil Size: 31.03 L<br /> Estimated OG: 1.045 SG<br /> Estimated Color: 8.9 EBC<br /> Estimated IBU: 59.3 IBU<br /> Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00 %<br /> Boil Time: 75 Minutes</p> <p>Ingredients:<br /> ------------<br /> Amount Item Type % or IBU<br /> 4.50 kg Pale Malt, Maris Otter (5.9 EBC) Grain 95.74 %<br /> 0.20 kg Wheat Malt, Ger (3.9 EBC) Grain 4.26 %<br /> 30.00 gm Magnum [15.70 %] (75 min) Hops 49.3 IBU<br /> 50.00 gm Styrian Goldings [4.50 %] (60 min) (AromaHops -<br /> 28.00 gm Motukea [7.20 %] (15 min) Hops 10.0 IBU<br /> 0.61 gm Irish Moss (Boil 15.0 min) Misc<br /> 1 Pkgs SafAle English Ale (DCL Yeast #S-04) Yeast-Ale </p> <p>Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Light Body, Batch Sparge<br /> Total Grain Weight: 4.70 kg<br /> ----------------------------<br /> Single Infusion, Light Body, Batch Sparge<br /> Step Time Name Description Step Temp<br /> 75 min Mash In Add 12.27 L of water at 68.9 C 63.0 C </p> <p>Gonna be doing these next tuesday hopefully.</p> <p>Its basically to use up ingredients that I have had left over. I will be using water treatments to make my water good for a dry pale ale.</p> <p>tee-tote-ale is basically a recipie that is withing beersmiths guide for style 14a (english pale ale) and the other is a see what I had left and go for it.</p> <p>Whaddya reckon then peeps? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/cough#post-3548 Wed, 19 May 2010 20:29:24 +0000 Tony 3548@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hmmm ... I&#39;ve just caught myself standing in the garden talking to my hop plant. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/help-and-advice-with-batch-sparging#post-3563 Wed, 19 May 2010 21:10:00 +0000 Nath 3563@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Yo all!</p> <p>Well I did my first batch sparge last weekend (I normally fly sparge) and I reckon I need some tips as I would like to do it again as its easier (and im l a z y)</p> <p>My effiency was around 68% and I never really got clear runnings on the first time round (maybe due to bad re circulation on my part) and it was cloudy as anything ton the second run.</p> <p>Any tips n tricks for next time round?</p> <p>Ta,</p> <p>Nath </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/wyeast#post-3395 Fri, 14 May 2010 20:59:17 +0000 Plopleuk 3395@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>do you have to make a starter with these or just smack and let it stand for a few hers then pitch? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/mash-volume-question#post-3312 Tue, 11 May 2010 13:03:00 +0000 stuwilliams 3312@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Afternoon all, </p> <p>I&#39;m pretty much ready to have a crack at my first AG brew following some &quot;dry&quot; runs doing extract brews to check out the equipment. I&#39;ve got the right kit, I&#39;ve got the ingredients, heck I&#39;ve even got a recipe of sorts. But the final piece in the jigsaw that I&#39;m not totally clear on is the mash. Specifically, how much water to use.</p> <p>I&#39;m guessing that I&#39;m going to have to do 2 runs, to get the required volume at the end. My mash tun cooler thing is 23L, but by the time you take into account the 5kg of grain and the space in the lid, its nowhere near that. So how do I know how much to do in each run? Do I just put as much water in as I can fit the first time, and then make up the difference on the second? Do I split it down the middle and do the same amount in each run? Does it even matter?</p> <p>I&#39;m using beeralchemy on a mac, if there is anything in there that would help me understand this.</p> <p>Hope this makes sense. Thanks in advance.</p> <p>Stu. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/yeast-extraction#post-3319 Tue, 11 May 2010 19:03:08 +0000 Plopleuk 3319@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>id like to use a wyeast and then extract some for a further brew to see what difference it makes to it.<br /> what is the best way to do this?<br /> do i let it start then get some from the frothy top or do i wait till second fermentation and get it from the dregs at the bottom?<br /> also i have been told a stirrer is best to get a starter going are their any here in the uk?<br /> and the beaker to do it in?</p> <p>cheers </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/honey#post-3237 Wed, 05 May 2010 11:24:27 +0000 Tony 3237@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi all<br /> In order to get another brew in this weekend I told the other half that she could choose the brew. She wants something with a honey taste.</p> <p>Now... I know that yeast just loves honey almost as much as Poo Bear does and will stuff their little bellies faster than you can say bumble bee. I&#39;m planning to add the honey in the last 5 mins of the boil and I&#39;m also expecting the honey taste to disappear along with the sugars. Does anyone have any experience/tips on using honey in a brew and if there&#39;s any way I can hold onto some of the taste. I did plan to also prime the brew with honey, but reading around, it seems it is difficult to guage the sugar content and can easily create 40 odd bottle bombs. I think I&#39;ll forget that. I also need to use only what I have here at the moment - which is the usual gear - MO, hops, honey blah blah. I did read that there&#39;s a honey malt, but have no time to get it in for a saturday brew.</p> <p>All help gratefully received! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/noble-pills#post-3207 Sun, 02 May 2010 08:36:22 +0000 Plopleuk 3207@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>hi,<br /> just found this site and am very impressed.<br /> ok my question is i recently visited San Diego and was lucky to get noble pills on tap there.<br /> its a very hoppy pilsner and i was wondering if their is a recipe to imitate it?</p> <p>thanks.. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/ag-equivalent-of-way-to-amarillo-ipa#post-3135 Wed, 21 Apr 2010 15:19:16 +0000 jaym72 3135@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>How do I convert the extract &#39;Way To Amarillo&#39; extract reipe to an AG version? What is the pale malt equivalent of dried extract approximately?</p> <p>Cheers<br /> Jason </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/help-on-attenuation#post-2919 Fri, 02 Apr 2010 09:12:22 +0000 simon 2919@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi just a quick question for you all out there, I have recently done a few brews with one minor problem ,after fernenting ,my brews dont seem to have attenuated enough .I usually start off with an O&gt;G of 1.050/55 but after 7 plus days in the bin only get down to 1.018/16 this using both the wyeast packs of yeast and the fermentis ones (which usually are well attenuated) . Do you think I need to use two packets because my finished volume is around 26/27 litres maybe, some people mention this may result in low strength beers as the yeast uses up alot of the sugars in the first stages of fermenting . I have tried more and less aerating of the wort prior to pitching but still no difference . The fermenting always looks good nice healthy head mostly complete within three days and when I come to rack it nearly all has dropped and hardly any movement on the airlock/c/o2 stopped. Any ideas as I quite like a slightly drier profile, I know I could balance out the sweetness with the hops but still. Any thoughts would be great and thanks for your time.<br /> SIMON </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/malt-ratios#post-2697 Wed, 17 Mar 2010 22:32:14 +0000 blackhatchetboy 2697@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi i&#39;m looking into going grain.</p> <p>Can anyone explain to me the ratios of malt extract/liquid extract/grain?<br /> For example a 1.5kg can of Liquid Malt Extract would be equal to ______g of Light Dried Malt Extract and _______g of pale crushed malt. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/advice#post-2358 Sat, 27 Feb 2010 17:12:11 +0000 Tony 2358@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi all<br /> Got a fair distance down the planning route of the beer with no name (as yet) and want to ask your advice...<br /> (Looks like the rugby will only irritate me, so I&#39;m concentrating on beer)</p> <p>Batch Size: 24.00 L<br /> Boil Size: 29.88 L<br /> Estimated OG: 1.076 SG<br /> Estimated Color: 15.7 EBC<br /> Estimated IBU: 74.5 IBU</p> <p>6.00 kg Pale Malt<br /> 1.00 kg Munich Malt<br /> 0.50 kg Wheat Malt<br /> 30.00 gm Williamette [6.70 %] (60 min)<br /> 50.00 gm Nelson Sauvin [11.30 %] (60 min)<br /> 30.00 gm Nelson Sauvin [11.30 %] (15 min)<br /> 30.00 gm Williamette [5.50 %] (0 min) (Aroma)<br /> 1.27 tsp Irish Moss (Boil 15.0 min)<br /> 0.30 kg Palm Sugar (25.0 EBC)<br /> 1 Pkgs SafAle English Ale (DCL Yeast #S-04) </p> <p>So .. I&#39;ve already reached 74.5 IBU ... do you think I should add some more Williamette (20g) at 15 min? Or stop with the IBUs that I have? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/imparting-colour-but-not-flavour-from-grain#post-2293 Wed, 24 Feb 2010 21:21:28 +0000 Nath 2293@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hey all,</p> <p>So im gonna do me lager this weekend and fingers crossed a bitter also. </p> <p> I have settled on the hops and fairly settled on the grain for the bitter but it needs more colour, what can I use that wont change the flavour too much. Last time I used crystal (145) and I feel it may have changed the taste a bit too much, I only used 4% so maybe somthing went wrong elsewhere. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/reusing-flavouraromadry-hops#post-2174 Fri, 19 Feb 2010 14:02:48 +0000 Nath 2174@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi all,</p> <p>Sorry I aint been on much but been down in cornwall where ma n pa dont do &quot;internet&quot;!</p> <p>I got thinking....</p> <p>owwwwwwwwwwwww.</p> <p>then I thought some more, and this is what I thought.</p> <p>Could we reuse the aroma/dry hops for bitterness in another boil?</p> <p>If you do a double brew day after steeping with the vast amount of hops we normally steep with, why not reuse them as most of the bitterness should be retained</p> <p>eh...eh... whadya think? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/wort-filtering#post-2027 Thu, 11 Feb 2010 11:48:46 +0000 Bazza 2027@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi guys,</p> <p>I was wondering what methods (if any) do you use to filter your wort before adding it to the boiler? </p> <p>After I&#39;ve sparged, I run the wort through a standard kitchen sieve as well to get rid of stray &#39;bits&#39;, but what I&#39;m left still with has a fair amount of grainy-ness. I decided last night to run this through a fine coffee strainer and was surprised at how quickly the strainer clogged up with a mud-like substance.</p> <p>My question is, am I taking things too far trying to strain to this fine a detail? Am I losing any &#39;goodness&#39; of the wort in doing so? I&#39;m just concerned that all this grainy matter may be putting a strain on my boiler.</p> <p>The grainy stuff aways settles down during fermentation, but I&#39;m typically left with half a litre of sludge for every 4.5 litres of beer fermenting in my 1 gallon demijohns. Is this an excessive amount of sludge?</p> <p>Any info appreciated. Cheers,</p> <p>-Bazza </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/cloudy-beer-hotcold-breaks#post-1909 Sat, 06 Feb 2010 10:49:19 +0000 Nath 1909@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi all,</p> <p>Well Im ok with my ag process now and I dont get heart fluctuations anymore but there is one thing I get with my beer:-</p> <p>I have no wort chiller and I chill naturally before pitching yeast. By the time its ready to drink it seems to make my beer crystal clear at room temp (or when a beer has been chilled a little, 15-20mins in a fridge) but if its cooled to fridge temp its cloudy. Is this due to the fact I dont have a wort chiller of sorts?</p> <p>I hear about cold and warm breaks and protiens but I am yet to understand it fully.</p> <p>On the plus side my other ag which is barreled and have had for 5 weeks now is crystal clear so maybe its a problem which does die down but takes longer due to my non existant chilling process. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/sparging-1#post-1752 Mon, 01 Feb 2010 20:30:25 +0000 Tony 1752@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi folks<br /> I&#39;ve recently made the move from fly to batch sparging (for convenience really and having read that the difference in efficiency is minimal)... the question is, having drained the first run or wort, how long is it best to let the first (and second) sparge water sit on the grain before draining into the kettle with the first run-off?<br /> Christ, I&#39;m not sure that makes sense to me,, hope someone can figure what I&#39;m trying to say!</p> <p>Cheers m&#39;deers! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/the-lager-with-no-name#post-195 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 23:46:11 +0000 Greg 195@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>As promised here is my first attempt at lager. Brewed it about 2 months ago now and struggled to keep the temp low as I don&#39;t have a brew fridge but did okay by freezing PET bottles filled with water then placing them around the fermenter (which was sitting in a bigger container) filled with water. Changed them 2 or 3 times a day and managed to get to about 12c most of the time. Not too bad bearing in mind it was high of summer, although not exactly a scorcher. Turned out pretty good. Very flavoursome and not as dry as I would like but really nice. Improved and mellowed with age, started out quite bitter but this subsided just as the last bottles were consumed. </p> <p>Recipe Specifications<br /> --------------------------<br /> Batch Size: 20.00 L<br /> Estimated OG: 1.047 SG<br /> Estimated FG: 1.011 SG<br /> Alcohol Content:4.6%<br /> Estimated Color: 4 EBC<br /> Estimated IBU: 32 IBU<br /> Boil Time: 90 Minutes</p> <p>Ingredients:<br /> ------------<br /> Amount Item<br /> 3500.00 gm Lager Malt<br /> 400gm Wheat malt</p> <p>45.00gm Hallertauer Hersbrucker [3 %] (90 min Boil)<br /> 45.00 gm Saaz [2.2 %] (90 min Boil)<br /> 15.00 gm Saaz [2.2 %] (15 min Boil)</p> <p>2038 Wyeast Munich </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/forum-brew#post-1213 Thu, 31 Dec 2009 13:17:06 +0000 Greg 1213@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I&#39;ve started this new thread so we can discuss the proposed Forum brew.</p> <p>First thing is to see who&#39;s up for it then discuss the rules for the recipe plus decide on the recipe.</p> <p>I vote for a Pale Ale of around 6% with 60 IBU target. Ie Punk IPA type beer. Just because this is what I was thinking of next but we need to decide together. Definitely think it should be Pale Ale. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/boiling-outside#post-1486 Wed, 13 Jan 2010 11:28:51 +0000 Nath 1486@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi all,</p> <p>Seems that my missus isnt too happy with the kitchen full of fog and the walls dripping with lovely sugary wort and the house sticking like (her words) a brewery!</p> <p>I guess im not the only one, so I wanted to ask if anyone uses an extention lead to power the kettle?</p> <p>I am a lil bit worried as I have 2 elements which is about 4.4kw. I could boil with 1 so 2.2kw min, but dont know much about wattage ratings and so forth.</p> <p>Anyone? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/whats-your-preffered-boiling-and-addition-times-and-why#post-1281 Sun, 03 Jan 2010 21:29:42 +0000 Nath 1281@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hey all,</p> <p>Nothing but questions from me today!</p> <p>Really its 2 questions-</p> <p>How long is your overall boil and why?</p> <p>When you do the additions what times so you use (pause for effect) and why (said with one raised eyebrow)?</p> <p>Its the classic tale of 60 vs 90</p> <p>15 vs 30</p> <p>10 vs 5</p> <p>etc etc</p> <p>and all the different combinations! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/anyone-here-mash-hopped#post-1274 Sun, 03 Jan 2010 20:40:48 +0000 Nath 1274@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>So I downloaded beersmith and... woah its got a lot of buttons! One thing I noticed while having a play was the mash hopping. Has anyone tried this? Its supposed to really bring out aroma. I suppose you could do this instead of adding hops in the last 5 mins of a boil.</p> <p>Am I right inthinking that to impart flavour it would not help, this is a 10-15min boil? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/how-do-you-work-out-how-much-hops-to-put-in-when#post-1250 Sat, 02 Jan 2010 15:33:46 +0000 Nath 1250@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi peeps,</p> <p>Getting excited about the forum brew and because I am new to ag I need to know some stuff!</p> <p>How do you know how much hops to put in when? So say we look at the 6x clone recpie mentioned here:-</p> <p>Ingredients Amount Item Type % or IBU<br /> 3000.00 gm Pipkin (5.9 EBC) Grain 90.00 %<br /> 100.00 gm Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (118.2 EBC) Grain 3.00 %<br /> 233.30 gm Sugar, Table (Sucrose) (2.0 EBC) Sugar 7.00 %<br /> 30.00 gm Fuggles [4.90 %] (90 min) Hops 19.7 IBU<br /> 8.00 gm Goldings, East Kent [5.70 %] (10 min) Hops 2.3 IBU </p> <p>How did the bloke who came up with the formula know to put 8g of goldings in the last 10 mins, why not 30g.</p> <p>In graham wheelers boot he says around 25-30% hops of total used in the last 10 or so mins for the aroma and flavour, yet many recpies here use way more.</p> <p>If you look at gregs APA no1:-</p> <p>4990.00 gm Pale Malt, Maris Otter</p> <p>32.00gm Cascade [7.60 %] (90 min Boil)<br /> 25.00 gm Cascade [7.60 %] (5 min Boil)<br /> 80.00gm Mt Hood [4.6 %] (5 min Boil)</p> <p>Thats wayyyyyyy more than the 25% ish that GW states.</p> <p>Im confused.</p> <p>I need help (mentally)</p> <p>Ta,</p> <p>Nath </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/suggest-me-a-recipe-ingredients-below#post-1134 Fri, 18 Dec 2009 20:43:01 +0000 Nath 1134@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi all,</p> <p>Well after being ill for 2 weeks and my main pc (with beer engine installed) basically blowing up my wife has decided I need a bit of man time!</p> <p>Obviousluy im gonna spend it brewing my second ag! Problem is im new to all this. My first ag turned out great (gregs apa recipe) but I want to try out something different. Needs to be kegged so an ale/bitter is what im looking for. Heres what I got - </p> <p>A shed load of marris otter pale malt</p> <p>A lager yeast of unknown origin, Can get some s04 though so not to worry</p> <p>sazz (alpha 2.2) 100g<br /> halletau (alpha 2.2) 100g<br /> mount hood (alpha 4.8) 50g ish<br /> cascade (alpha 7.6) 40g ish</p> <p>Now I am lucky enough to live next door to an amazing brew company which I could pop down to so I could get some extras if needed.</p> <p>What do you lot think. If I can get away with the ingredients here it would be easier but im open to suggestions.</p> <p>I would try myself but I dont know what complements eachother yet and Im not allowed to install beery things on my missus notebook!</p> <p>The apa was 38ebu and I found it had a fairly sweet aftertaste (though the one of gregs i tried didnt) so it can be more bitter, but i dont know what the limit i should stick to is.</p> <p>Whos man enough to shout us a recipe? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/wadwoths-6x#post-1001 Fri, 04 Dec 2009 22:41:24 +0000 Nath 1001@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi all,</p> <p>Well been a long time,</p> <p>I been on hols with the lads and as a result had a nasty cold or a flu (ooooohhhhh-errrr) of some sorts.</p> <p>Any way I have been reading graham wheers british real ale book (3rd edition) and been tring a 6x clone. Problem is whenever I put it into beer engine it comes out different! Any help here! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/help-for-my-1st-ag-brew#post-1052 Thu, 10 Dec 2009 17:39:51 +0000 Gazz 1052@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi Guys<br /> Im planning my first AG over Xmas and am a little confused with a few areas.</p> <p>Firstly when it comes to water treatment other than using a campden tablet do i need to use anything else like gypsum??<br /> As I only brew small extract batches 10L(only a weekend drinker!) is it possible to use bottled water(Asda do 15L for £6) If so would I need to treat this?</p> <p>Secondly the sparging issue confuses me......I understand the sparging methods but I dont understand is how much wort I need to collect. If I was to aim for a 10L brew do I only sparge for 10L of wort???</p> <p>The rest I understand as I&#39;ve done a few extract&#39;s up to now.</p> <p>Any help &amp; advice is much appreciated as always</p> <p>Thanks Again</p> <p>Gareth </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/steam-beer#post-951 Mon, 30 Nov 2009 18:39:12 +0000 Tony 951@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi all<br /> I&#39;ve been checking the temperature drop in my shed (where I store all my bottled beer) and have come to the conclusion that while I have no objection to having my beer nice and cold (or even allowing it to come to room temp before drinking), it&#39;s not a good temp for conditioning.</p> <p>I&#39;m thinking .. what if I do a straight forward IPA and use lager yeast, which should be ok with the lower temp...?</p> <p>Anyone made any steam beer?<br /> Tony </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/using-rauchmalz#post-796 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 11:59:26 +0000 NewToBrew 796@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi, </p> <p>I want to make a smoked beer simular to the german &#39;Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier Urbock&#39; a dark wintery smoked ale!! But I have no idea where to start! I have made partial grain brews in the past using malt extract and some grains. Could I just replace the grains from a brew I&#39;ve enjoyed in the past with the smoked grain? If so would the quantities be the same? If this isn&#39;t the case does anyone have any great recipes I could try out? Thanks in advance for any advise anyone can lend me! </p>