http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ Brew UK Forum » Forum: Grain - Recent Posts en Sun, 05 Feb 2012 00:04:52 +0000 http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/jellfish#post-29766 Tue, 31 Jan 2012 08:44:51 +0000 coddy 29766@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi sorry for the delay, i used protfloc and cooled with a chiller but I don&#39;t have a hop strainer on my boiler. I think I was a bit keen to transfer to my fv and should of let the trub settle a bit more before I transfered. I will just have to wait and see what happens now. Its fermenting away now and smells quite good too. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-ag-brew-no-turning-back-now#post-29660 Sun, 29 Jan 2012 14:47:17 +0000 stray66uk 29660@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I think you are probably right. With my wherry the fermentation temps were too high as it was summer. I then built a brew fridge and every brew has been much better. Its probably the combination of extract brews and stable temps which improved the beer. I think my brewfridge is the most important bit of kit to be honest. In the past my biggest complaint was I couldn&#39;t chill a barrel of beer in the summer. Having a dedicated, fully temperature controlled fidge is a must in my &quot;Vast&quot; experience &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_confused.gif&quot; title=&quot;:?&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; Summer or winter no problem! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-ag-brew-no-turning-back-now#post-29649 Sun, 29 Jan 2012 13:50:36 +0000 Hamish 29649@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>My own take on it is any twang is probably due to inconsistent fermentation temperatures. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-ag-brew-no-turning-back-now#post-29638 Sun, 29 Jan 2012 11:36:23 +0000 stray66uk 29638@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Well in my opinion the Wherry for instance is much better than the kits I made in the early 90,s. It is however unmistakeably(spell check) homebrew. If i&#39;m honest I wasn&#39;t sad to see the back of it. I then made a couple of amarillo&#39;s and a rocker extract. Gorgeous, I&#39;m sure if I&#39;d made proper labels and they said bottle conditioned on them somewhere no-one would have known they were homebrew. I have read about extract twang some where, I think in Graham Wheelers book, but I certainly couldn,t taste it. The only real drawback is the price of the spraymalt which is what it is i&#39;m afraid. Then on to AG, I had a few small problems but the end result is spot on. Its cheaper which is a bonus and I enjoyed making it. I found with AG though I wasn&#39;t convinced I&#39;d made beer until I tasted one &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_biggrin.gif&quot; title=&quot;:D&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-ag-brew-no-turning-back-now#post-29627 Sat, 28 Jan 2012 23:55:14 +0000 saracen 29627@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Excellent job, Stray. You do realise you&#39;ve passed through that gate with, &quot;Abandon Hope All Ye Who Enter Here&quot; over it.</p> <p>I&#39;ve heard of this Extract Twang, and I think I might have experienced it. I made 2 batches a long time ago with Muntons Liquid Malt Extract. I&#39;m sure there was something wrong with it, because it tasted sort of metallic, tangy, sharp..... hard to describe. Not off, just wrong. I also think this harks back to the bad old days of the 40 pt Boots Bitter Kit, when homebrew really did have a noticeable taste.<br /> I don&#39;t really think there should be any distinction in taste if Extract is done properly with sound ingredients. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-ag-brew-no-turning-back-now#post-29621 Sat, 28 Jan 2012 22:09:51 +0000 Hamish 29621@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Well done matey!.</p> <p>Yes, could you explain extract/hb twang?. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-ag-brew-no-turning-back-now#post-29618 Sat, 28 Jan 2012 21:53:50 +0000 beerlover1983 29618@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I really need to go allgrain when i get my own garage just not got rooom at my current brewery.Im keen to know what that extract twang is ?.Ive not had a allgrain homebrew to compare.</p> <p>Nice one on a sucesselfull brew btw </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-ag-brew-no-turning-back-now#post-29593 Sat, 28 Jan 2012 17:22:50 +0000 stray66uk 29593@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I finally cracked open one of my first AG brews today (well i&#39;ve cracked open 5 to be honest) Wow! Its the Timothy Taylor Landlord brew. I bottled it and its almost lager sparkling which I know would be no good for the purists but its how I like it. Its ace, no hb twang, no extract twang although to be honest ive done the amarillo and the rocker extracts and I loved them and never realy new what the extract twang was. What can I say, if your considering AG go for it. You can set up for around £150 if you DIY it and make a &quot;hamish&quot;. The beer is then cheap as chips and gorgeous. You just stare at it in the pint pot and think &quot;I can&#39;t believe I made that from scratch :D&quot; Go on you know you wanna </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/jellfish#post-29505 Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:10:50 +0000 Greg 29505@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Sounds like trub to me. Probably be okay, should just sink. You could rack off into a clean container once it settled but I would just leave it.</p> <p>Like Saracen say&#39;s ideally it should be in your fermenter, all over the hop bed. Did you use any copper finnings? and did you use a chiller to cool before transferring to the fermenter? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/jellfish#post-29493 Thu, 26 Jan 2012 23:04:38 +0000 simonb_13 29493@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Got a picture? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/jellfish#post-29487 Thu, 26 Jan 2012 22:10:53 +0000 saracen 29487@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi Coddy<br /> I think what you are describing should be in the bottom of the boiler, not the FV.<br /> The combination of the hot break, during the boil, and the cold break, during the cooling, causes all the proteins and other unwaned stuff to clump tohather and fall to the bottom of the boiler. You should then drain the boiler, leaving it behind. Hopefully, it will drop out of the beer, but don&#39;t bank on it. You might end up with cloudy beer, but hope for the best. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/jellfish#post-29485 Thu, 26 Jan 2012 21:55:50 +0000 coddy 29485@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>hi, i have done my first ag brew today, i think all was ok but i have just had a look in my fv and its full of what look like jellyfish! is this normal and will it drop to the bottom so i can get rid when racking? im assuming its some protein stuff thats clumping together </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/boysbitter#post-29244 Wed, 25 Jan 2012 12:32:53 +0000 Hamish 29244@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Yep, flaked oats is what I use in Beer Engine and surprisingly they do add a little to the fermentables but its neither here nor there really. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/boysbitter#post-29237 Wed, 25 Jan 2012 12:18:13 +0000 saracen 29237@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>The only thing I could find close in Beer Engine was Flaked Oats. I could have put it in the database, but I&#39;m feeling a bit lazy today. I don&#39;t suppose Porridge adds any fermentables. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/boysbitter#post-29234 Wed, 25 Jan 2012 12:04:25 +0000 Hamish 29234@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I&#39;ve used porridge oats in a few pales and in an oatmeal stout, they add a silky almost creamy texture to the beer. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/boysbitter#post-29229 Wed, 25 Jan 2012 11:35:15 +0000 saracen 29229@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Good question. I tthink it relates to the whole grain bill, so I&#39;d put in 125 gms, reduce the Wheat to 50 gms and mash it along with the rest. It&#39;s a question of try it and see. Maybe a half and half experiment?</p> <p><img src="http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc440/paulws1953/BoysBitter.jpg"> </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/boysbitter#post-29207 Wed, 25 Jan 2012 07:49:50 +0000 Otter 29207@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>G&#39;day all<br /> If i use oats do i still use everything else or reduce the wheat and is the 5% related to total ingredient weight or just the otter malt<br /> Struggle to get challenger so target is easier but also have willamette fuggles and super alpha and the rest of my hops are of the late addition type,its where being here in nz falls down so experimentation is the order of the day but ive got to say thanks saracen cos a brew is imminent using your recipe,already have the yeast so full steam ahead-literally! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/boysbitter#post-29095 Tue, 24 Jan 2012 13:45:02 +0000 saracen 29095@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Yes. +1 to Hamish.<br /> I&#39;ve never used it, but I know it works. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/boysbitter#post-29049 Tue, 24 Jan 2012 10:20:43 +0000 Technotrucker 29049@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I&#39;ve been brewng for years, I know you can use oats and the like but I&#39;ve never used them myself...muat get around to having a try with them... </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/hop-storage#post-29012 Mon, 23 Jan 2012 23:32:02 +0000 Nath 29012@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p><blockquote>i have got 2 empty kegs so might as well do 2 brews, problem solved</blockquote></p> <p>Problem Solved Indeed! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/hop-storage#post-28984 Mon, 23 Jan 2012 22:12:14 +0000 coddy 28984@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>i have got 2 empty kegs so might as well do 2 brews, problem solved </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/boysbitter#post-28975 Mon, 23 Jan 2012 21:49:46 +0000 Hamish 28975@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p><blockquote>how do you get over the lack of alcohol to give you the proper mouthfeel</blockquote></p> <p>Porridge oats, 4 or 5% should to it. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/hop-storage#post-28970 Mon, 23 Jan 2012 21:44:55 +0000 Hamish 28970@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Freezer for mine, though I&#39;m sure its far from ideal. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/boysbitter#post-28844 Mon, 23 Jan 2012 12:37:18 +0000 saracen 28844@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi Otter<br /> Wyeast 1968 London ESB is about the best choice for what you are trying to do. I know we plug this one a lot, but it really is good. Very clean if you make sure you ferment at 20°c. Higher and you get somefruity overtones. Clears quickly and well. What about this. It uses Caramalt, which you can use in larger quantities to give a bit of body without darkening things as much as Crystal and also avoids the heavy mouthfeel. I&#39;ve done similar recipes to this and I&#39;m confident it will turn out well. It&#39;s formulated for 20 lts as it keeps the quantities easy. Note also it uses a standard 90 minute mash, 75 minute boil, and a late addition of Nelson Sauvinn in the last 10 minutes. The Torrefied Wheat is there for head retention and lacing. Leave it out if you wish.</p> <p>Personally, I don&#39;t think Target, on its own, make for really good beer. Few commercial examples use it with the exception of Fullers, and they blend it with Northdown and Challenger as the main bittering hops. If you want to use Target, substitute 18 gms of Target for the Golding and Fuggles</p> <p><blockquote>CaraMalt is a very low colour Crystal Malt which has an almost completely glassy endosperm. It contains a greater degree of sweetness and stronger caramel flavour than Crystal Malt and the harsher nutty roasted flavours are not present.</p> <p>It greatly improves body, foam retention and beer stability whilst adding little colour. It has therefore, become very popular in the production of lagers where it is used to assist in enhancing flavour and character. It has also become a common constituent for this reason, in low alcohol lagers.</blockquote></p> <p>Boys Bitter (20 lts)</p> <p>Pale Malt (Maris Otter). 5 EBC. 3000 grams. 89.7%<br /> Caramalt. 30 EBC. 300 grams. 7.6%<br /> Torrefied Wheat. 4 EBC. 100 grams. 2.7% </p> <p>Yeast. Wyeast 1968 London ESB, Windsor or S-04 (all quite low attenuation)</p> <p>Golding Whole. AA 5.7%. 75 mins. 20 grams 41% of EBU<br /> Fuggle Whole. AA 4.9%. 75 mins. 20 grams 35.2% of EBU<br /> Nelson Sauvin Whole. AA 12.7%. 10 mins. 15 grams 23.8% of EBU<br /> Nelson Sauvin Whole. AA 12.7%. 0 mins. 15 grams 0% of EBU (Dry hop in fermenter after 3 days for 10 days)</p> <p>Final Volume: 20 Litres<br /> Original Gravity: 1.038<br /> Final Gravity: 1.009<br /> Alcohol Content: 3.6% ABV<br /> Total Liquor: 28.4 Litres<br /> Mash Liquor: 8.5 Litres<br /> Mash Efficiency: 75 %<br /> Bitterness: 37 EBU<br /> Colour: 9 EBC </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/boysbitter#post-28834 Mon, 23 Jan 2012 09:53:15 +0000 Technotrucker 28834@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Saracen...<br /> I think your not far of target mate..it&#39;s very hoppie..brilliant pint..will have to make a vigorous &amp; determined attempt to get a couple of bottles.</p> <p>ps..When do we get PM box???? <a href="http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys.php"><img src="http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-violent003.gif"></a> </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/boysbitter#post-28827 Mon, 23 Jan 2012 07:07:36 +0000 Otter 28827@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Awesome guys good info and it will be a traditional english bitter using otter malt small amount of crystal and target hops with a heavy influence of some nz hops late on,suggestions for a low attenuation yeast as i have access now to wyeyeast products gratefully received and i have been on their webpage so have some ideas but nothing beats experience.<br /> Guess i am really keen to show that beer can be relatively low alcohol but still jangle the taste buds ,no better place to start than the younger generation! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/hop-storage#post-28610 Sun, 22 Jan 2012 18:42:16 +0000 saracen 28610@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>The best way is to use them up. Find another recipe that will use up the residue.<br /> Storing is a problem, and we all end up with a fridge full of half bags of hops. I cut the top 75% of the way across, re-seal it with Sellotape, squeezing as much of the air out as you can, then keep them in the fridge. Some say in the freezer, but I don&#39;t have any experience of it. I would think it&#39;s likely to dry them out. Try not to keep them for more than 6 months. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/boysbitter#post-28609 Sun, 22 Jan 2012 18:23:13 +0000 saracen 28609@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Can&#39;t find anything at all, Techno.<br /> I see it comes in bottles and most of the info will be on there. The only trhing I found, on another forum, is that Marstons won&#39;t reply to e-mails about it and it&#39;s Maris Otter, Styrians and Cascade. Not really enough to go on. The photo of the bottles shows it as very light in colour, so I would think it&#39;s all Pale Malt, but without an ABV and at least a guess at the EBU we can&#39;t do much.</p> <p>If I had to guess I&#39;d go all Maris Otter to about 1.038, Styrians and Cascade about 50/50 to 75-80% of EBU in the main boil, the rest in the last 10 minutes finishing at 38 EBU followed by a big helping of Cascade Post Boil. Fairly standard formula and cost effective for a commercial brewery. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/hop-storage#post-28607 Sun, 22 Jan 2012 17:42:32 +0000 coddy 28607@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>hello again, im going to order my ingredients for my fist brew an noticed that the hops come in packs of 100g, i will only be using 40g for the brew and wonder if the hops can be frozen or is it best just to keep them in the fridge? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/boysbitter#post-28595 Sun, 22 Jan 2012 13:28:56 +0000 Technotrucker 28595@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>While your on Saracen, have you come across...<a href="http://www.marstonsepa.co.uk/about-epa/">THIS HERE</a> I found it last year while in Brum picking up my Corni&#39;s...it was a brilliant summer drink..I&#39;d love a clone for it. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/boysbitter#post-28588 Sun, 22 Jan 2012 13:04:32 +0000 saracen 28588@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I have recipes for Hydes Original at 3.4% ABV, or Flowers IPA at 3.7% ABV and you won&#39;t get that much alcohol if you use a yeast with a lower attenuation. I would say 3.0% is about right. How are you planning to brew it? Extract or All Grain? The lack of body in low alcohol beers is difficult to overcome with extract, but you can always put some extra hop character in with steeping or dry hopping. Do you want a trad English darker bitter, or a light coloured summer style pale, or an American style IPA? What flavour influences do you want? Citrus, pine, tropical fruit. You can come up with just about anything. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/boysbitter#post-28566 Sun, 22 Jan 2012 07:17:51 +0000 Technotrucker 28566@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Otter hi...</p> <p>Googled this if it&#39;s any good <a href="http://themothersmilk.blogspot.com/2009/02/boys-bitter.html">HERE</a><br /> don&#39;t know the brew (yet). If you read down the page you&#39;ll see he would have used Marris Otter and not the Pilsner..</p> <p>Also <a href="http://www.brewingtv.com/recipe/2010/6/24/boys-bitter.html">HERE</a> looks easier, run them through beer engine to double check, if you ask him nice Saracen may do it for you... &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_cool.gif&quot; title=&quot;8)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/boysbitter#post-28565 Sun, 22 Jan 2012 06:48:59 +0000 Otter 28565@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Greetings from the windy canterbury plains anybody got a recipe for boys bitter and how do you get over the lack of alcohol to give you the proper mouthfeel,probably opened up a huge area but id like to brew a lower alcohol beer for a end of year do for students and i do like a challenge!cheers </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/think-i-may-have-my-first-major-problem#post-28503 Sat, 21 Jan 2012 19:24:59 +0000 stray66uk 28503@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Well I bottled this brew today. I hit my FG so it obviously did ferment. I must have had a crap cold break though cos I lost a good 2 inch of beer at the bottom of the fv to loads of sediment and gunge so ended up with about 4 gallon or so. The wort took no more than half an hour to cool with my coil because the weather/water was so cold.I used powdered protofloc so I think I will buy the tablets for the next brew to see if they are any better. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/hop-degredation#post-28263 Wed, 18 Jan 2012 21:53:30 +0000 Nath 28263@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>A friend of mine keep it vaccume sealed and in the freezer. He has used the same hops (EKG&#39;s) or 6months + and never adjusts.</p> <p>I dunno, I still have hops that I keep in the fridge sealed as much as I can from the air, but I would prefer to use fresh as I can all the time. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-28129 Tue, 17 Jan 2012 21:23:52 +0000 Mark 28129@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Well put TT </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/wort-chilling-process#post-28118 Tue, 17 Jan 2012 19:42:23 +0000 Hamish 28118@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Yes, pretty much what saracen said.</p> <p>If it works then it works but your main concern should be keeping it clean and sterile. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/wort-chilling-process#post-28115 Tue, 17 Jan 2012 17:31:18 +0000 Iestyn 28115@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi Saracen, good to hear from you bud and thanks for the quick response.</p> <p>I only did once on the recent AG brew, but I ran steralised water through a couple of times to flush/ clean, then plugged the coil from the boiler through to the fv. When fv filled up, I poured back into the boiler and ran through again. the coil was in a bucket of cold water which heated pretty quickly as you&#39;d expect. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/wort-chilling-process#post-28109 Tue, 17 Jan 2012 16:45:12 +0000 saracen 28109@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>It&#39;s something I&#39;d never thought about, but I suppose it would work OK. The thing that passes through my mind is a) How to keep it clean, which I suppose you could bo by connecting it to a tap and flushing it through, and b) how to keep it sterile, which is usually done by washing it and then putting it in the boiling wort 5 minutes before the end of the boil.</p> <p>Normally, you simply connect the pipe from the lower end of the chiller to the cold tap, turn on and regulate the flow to get maximum cooling. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/wort-chilling-process#post-28108 Tue, 17 Jan 2012 16:23:04 +0000 Iestyn 28108@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi there,</p> <p>A recent thread made me panic a little; </p> <p>I thought I saw on a youtube vid, a brewer syphoning wort through the copper chiller (in a bucket full of ice) to cool the wort to 20c. This is what I did for my Summer Lightning, and worked really well (20c in two run offs).</p> <p>Is this wrong? I&#39;m guessing that it is now. &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_redface.gif&quot; title=&quot;:oops:&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-28094 Tue, 17 Jan 2012 14:18:54 +0000 Technotrucker 28094@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Coddy Hi...Got to go with what&#39;s been said...a few years back I went on our water website and found a page were you popped in your post code and you could read an analysis of the H2O that came out of your tap....I did this..boy o boy..talk about scientific..give me a book on quantum mechanics, I may understand that.</p> <p>So in the end it&#39;s all down to you...I&#39;ve even in the early days of homebrew gone with buying water by the Gal from the likes of Aldi..Lidl...cheap enough..me I don&#39;t like camden so I don&#39;t use it. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/hop-degredation#post-28087 Tue, 17 Jan 2012 12:45:06 +0000 saracen 28087@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I really don&#39;t know. I tend to re-seal the packs and keep them in the fridge. It&#39;s something we ought to consult an expert about, because the chances are we&#39;re all doing something different and not getting the best from our stock. Ideally, and it&#39;s something a few on here promote, we should be using recipes that use a whole pack, but when you&#39;re using something like Magnum at 15.7% Alpha Acid it&#39;s not possible. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/hop-degredation#post-28046 Tue, 17 Jan 2012 07:13:43 +0000 Mark 28046@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Can anyone help Otter out here with a bit of advice as probably my best guess will be wrong &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_sad.gif&quot; title=&quot;:(&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-28020 Mon, 16 Jan 2012 23:30:43 +0000 saracen 28020@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi Coddy</p> <p>Half a tablet, the half hour boil and leave to stand overnight is the simplest form of water treatment, and it&#39;s very effective. As Hamish says, start simple and then read up on treatments, and if you want to go that way, have a go. There are loads of calculators for brewing salts around, but you need a detailed water analysis from your supplier first.</p> <p>Think of it this way. How do you know what chemicals the big breweries bung in? A very big reason for brewing your own beer is so that you can control what goes in, so why add chemicals before you even start? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-28018 Mon, 16 Jan 2012 23:25:12 +0000 saracen 28018@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Timbo, take another look at your recipes. I had to edit some hop Alpha Acid. The differences are small, but it might as well be right. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27990 Mon, 16 Jan 2012 19:53:22 +0000 coddy 27990@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>i have never treated the water i used in the kits or in my wine or cider and they have tasted fine, thought it might affect the taste or something. all the stuff i have read suggests a campden tablet. think i will just use tap water and see what happens </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27876 Mon, 16 Jan 2012 00:48:35 +0000 Timbo77 27876@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Dear Saracen,</p> <p>You are a good man, thankyou sooooo much!!</p> <p><img src="http://www.animated-smileys.com/smileys/dancing/animated-smileys-dancing-073.gif"> </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27871 Mon, 16 Jan 2012 00:41:07 +0000 saracen 27871@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Timbo, your recipes are on</p> <p><a href="http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/a-tough-year-ahead" rel="nofollow">http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/a-tough-year-ahead</a> </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27822 Sun, 15 Jan 2012 23:48:42 +0000 Mark 27822@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Ahh Hamish on the piste</p> <p>Good on ya pal enjoy it out there, love the photo&#39;s</p> <p>Plenty of Shnapz? or have you found a nice beer to your liking? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27819 Sun, 15 Jan 2012 23:43:51 +0000 Hamish 27819@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p><blockquote>PS - Hamish were you been lately? not seen you on here for a while before today. </blockquote></p> <p>Here...</p> <p><a href="http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/found-in-austria" rel="nofollow">http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/found-in-austria</a> </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27818 Sun, 15 Jan 2012 23:43:49 +0000 Timbo77 27818@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Amen &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_razz.gif&quot; title=&quot;:P&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27817 Sun, 15 Jan 2012 23:42:38 +0000 Hamish 27817@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>But he is a God. <img src="http://www.oes.org/forum/images/smilies/rs_NotWorthy.gif"> </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27813 Sun, 15 Jan 2012 23:38:10 +0000 Mark 27813@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>PS - Hamish were you been lately? not seen you on here for a while before today. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27812 Sun, 15 Jan 2012 23:37:15 +0000 Mark 27812@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Yes Hamish i agree about the crap over the pond, my motto ignore it. What i am saying about Wheeler is if you think what he says makes sense then obviously go with it but don&#39;t just go with it for the sake of Oh it&#39;s the wheelergod preaching again. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27810 Sun, 15 Jan 2012 23:33:31 +0000 Timbo77 27810@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I don&#39;t have the book at the moment but blimely that link is a good read!!<br /> Thanks for that Hamish</p> <p>Mark, very true is that. I only added the tablet because someone told me to and to be honest, I couldn&#39;t tell the difference with or without. After the read of that link, I don&#39;t think I&#39;ll bother.... </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27807 Sun, 15 Jan 2012 23:32:38 +0000 Hamish 27807@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>True but I value his opinion and methods much more highly than some of the other guff I&#39;ve read, especially some of the crap from our cousins over the pond.</p> <p>Each to his own, horses for courses and all that. &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_wink.gif&quot; title=&quot;:wink:&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27803 Sun, 15 Jan 2012 23:25:45 +0000 Mark 27803@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>wheelers is just an opinion don&#39;t mean everyone has to follow like a lapdog &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_wink.gif&quot; title=&quot;:wink:&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27799 Sun, 15 Jan 2012 23:22:54 +0000 Hamish 27799@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Water treatment isn&#39;t necessary for kit and extract brewing and go easy on the campden, Mr Wheeler doesn&#39;t approve.</p> <p><a href="http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/mr-wheeler-campden-tablets" rel="nofollow">http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/mr-wheeler-campden-tablets</a> </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27784 Sun, 15 Jan 2012 23:12:36 +0000 Timbo77 27784@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hee hee &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_wink.gif&quot; title=&quot;;)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; It&#39;s all a bit beyond me this water treatment malarky, never had a problem before when I used it straight from the tap for the tin kits (wherry, nog, youngs bitter). Now I just plonk a campden tablet in a bucket of water the day before and use that. As I don&#39;t have a large boiler to boil it all up, I only boil up what is necessary - 8ish litres. Always tastes fine to me, cheers! <a href="http://www.animated-smileys.com/smileys/drinking/animated-smileys-drinking-200.gif" rel="nofollow">http://www.animated-smileys.com/smileys/drinking/animated-smileys-drinking-200.gif</a></p> <p>Maybe I&#39;ll pay more attention to it as I get more experience </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27779 Sun, 15 Jan 2012 23:01:48 +0000 Mark 27779@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Tell that to Wally coddy whom asked the question. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27777 Sun, 15 Jan 2012 22:59:35 +0000 Timbo77 27777@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I should point out Mark I&#39;m South Staffs &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_mrgreen.gif&quot; title=&quot;:mrgreen:&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; but still share the same poo water supply. Buggered up my central heating! But still good enough for the brew &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_wink.gif&quot; title=&quot;;)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27766 Sun, 15 Jan 2012 22:46:03 +0000 Mark 27766@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>what the water? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27763 Sun, 15 Jan 2012 22:44:45 +0000 outlaw 27763@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>nasty that </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27761 Sun, 15 Jan 2012 22:43:11 +0000 Mark 27761@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Timbo pergaps the water is that hard because of all the shit pots you keep churning out up there &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_smile.gif&quot; title=&quot;:-)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27735 Sun, 15 Jan 2012 20:42:46 +0000 seamus48 27735@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p> &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_mrgreen.gif&quot; title=&quot;:mrgreen:&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27731 Sun, 15 Jan 2012 20:36:05 +0000 Timbo77 27731@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>The water here in Stafforshire, it&#39;s so hard it comes out the tap saying &quot;you lookin at me??&quot; Vinny Jones stylee! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27727 Sun, 15 Jan 2012 20:29:09 +0000 coddy 27727@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>thanks guys, the water here is quite hard too so i think the boil before might be my best option. should hopefully be having a go next fri/sat so will let you know how i get on </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27663 Sun, 15 Jan 2012 16:39:39 +0000 saracen 27663@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I think we&#39;re mostly in agreement with Hamish. Best left alone.<br /> You could use a cheap water filter</p> <p><a href="http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/plumbing/plumbing-supplies/hard_water_treatments/Aqua-Shield-Water-Filter-Cartridge-2000712-9271774" rel="nofollow">http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/plumbing/plumbing-supplies/hard_water_treatments/Aqua-Shield-Water-Filter-Cartridge-2000712-9271774</a></p> <p>Used and loved by many on here.<br /> I live in a very hard water area so I boil the water for half an hour the night before and leave it overnight for the majority of the chalk to precipitate out. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27658 Sun, 15 Jan 2012 16:28:00 +0000 Hamish 27658@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p><blockquote>and was wondering how important it is to treat the water?</blockquote></p> <p>Not very important!, its better to get your cleanliness and general technique right first and then revisit water treatment if you feel your brews need fine tuning.</p> <p>Its a huge and somewhat controversial subject, though half a campden tablet per 25 litres won&#39;t hurt.</p> <p>Crack on with the brew and keep us informed. &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_smile.gif&quot; title=&quot;:-)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/water-treatment-3#post-27656 Sun, 15 Jan 2012 16:16:59 +0000 coddy 27656@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>hi, im hopefully going to do my first all grain brew next week and was wondering how important it is to treat the water? will a campden tablet do the job? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/cool-box-size#post-27638 Sun, 15 Jan 2012 13:01:46 +0000 ewiecluie 27638@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I used: <a href="http://www.suave-homebrew.co.uk/2010/02/brew-equipment-mash-tun.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.suave-homebrew.co.uk/2010/02/brew-equipment-mash-tun.html</a> as instructions for making my mash tun. </p> <p>This was the temp gauge: <a href="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;item=120836919267" rel="nofollow">http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;item=120836919267</a></p> <p>Hope both of those help. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/hlt-question#post-27418 Sat, 14 Jan 2012 00:21:46 +0000 Nath 27418@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>+1 to Jim - if used as a hlt then there should be no alterations - just a thermometer needed. If your looking to go all grain on a budget then why not diy your bits n bieses. Ive done it but a sterling all grain setup that wont break the bank is &quot;THE HAMISH&quot; have a look here:-</p> <p><a href="http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/brewery-build" rel="nofollow">http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/brewery-build</a> </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/hlt-question#post-27413 Sat, 14 Jan 2012 00:11:27 +0000 Jim 27413@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>If you&#39;re just after a HLT then no mods will be needed as you won&#39;t need to get to boiling temp.. </p> <p>If you&#39;re after a boiler then I&#39;m not the person to speak to cos I&#39;ve had so many problems with the severin boiler my only advice is to build your own!</p> <p>As far as I know theres plenty of boilers for sale but if you want to use it for boiling wort and it doesn&#39;t do the job then it usually isn&#39;t what the manufacturers expected it to be used for and therefore isn&#39;t covered by any warranty! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/think-i-may-have-my-first-major-problem#post-26921 Wed, 11 Jan 2012 22:07:55 +0000 stray66uk 26921@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Well it finally started to ferment after 48 hours. I have to say though the scum mark on the fv is only 10mm above the wort. Ive only ever used dry yeast before and had a much faster start and a stronger ferment. It does leave me wondering if its worth the extra cost of liquid yeasts as i&#39;m not overly impressed up to now. Now if the beer tastes fantastic however, I will retract my comments instantly and slink off feeling a complete dumb ass....... again &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_smile.gif&quot; title=&quot;:-)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/all-grain-beer-engine-question#post-26813 Wed, 11 Jan 2012 14:06:49 +0000 Ed the BASS 26813@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Thanks again Saracen. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/1sr-ag-underway#post-26652 Tue, 10 Jan 2012 22:24:37 +0000 Nath 26652@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Upload your piccys to photobucket then you can &quot;roll over&quot; the thumbnails in your gallery and then click on the IMG link, this will copy the code needed for the forum to display your piccy, then just paste it in your reply. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/cool-box-size#post-26631 Tue, 10 Jan 2012 21:49:25 +0000 PaulGee 26631@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Looks like a tap &amp; temperature gauge is now on my list of things to find.</p> <p>Thank you everyone &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_smile.gif&quot; title=&quot;:)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> <p>Paul </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/1sr-ag-underway#post-26624 Tue, 10 Jan 2012 21:03:58 +0000 StueyJ 26624@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Thanks Nath - I can confirm it looks like brains. I will take a pic - how do you link a pic here? I&#39;ll put the brew day pics on as well if I can work that one out. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/all-grain-beer-engine-question#post-26592 Tue, 10 Jan 2012 19:06:11 +0000 saracen 26592@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi Ed.</p> <p>Another drawback with Dave Line. All you can do is guess the EBU and EBC of the beer you are making. Alpha levels vary wildly. I&#39;ve just done a recipe using Challenger. The ones in the shop here are shown as 2008 crop 5.1% AA and the current 2010 crop is 8.2% AA.</p> <p>Yeast changes the character of the beer a great deal. Take a look here.<br /> <strong><a href="http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain.cfm" rel="nofollow">http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain.cfm</a></strong><br /> Click on a few and you&#39;ll see from the description how different they can be. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/hlt-question#post-26560 Tue, 10 Jan 2012 16:01:34 +0000 PaulGee 26560@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi again folks.</p> <p>I was wondering if anyone uses a Burco or Swan boiler for the HLT &amp; if any mods are needed to thermostats, tap etc? There are quite a few on ebay at the moment and I&#39;m trying to gather all the equiment to go AG, on a rather limited budget.</p> <p>Sorry for the rushed earlier version of this post, was doing it from work.</p> <p>Cheers</p> <p>Paul </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/1sr-ag-underway#post-26524 Tue, 10 Jan 2012 12:03:10 +0000 Nath 26524@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Some yeasts can do this depending on their floccuation and also other factors, temp, oxygen etc etc. Is there a chance you can take a pic? A few of us had a similar problem 6 or so months ago with s04, it left brain looking clumps of yeast floating on top. As far as im aware we all had perfectly drinkable beer and just syphoned around the mashoosive lumps. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/1sr-ag-underway#post-26478 Mon, 09 Jan 2012 21:10:22 +0000 StueyJ 26478@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Bump. My summer lightning still has a gloopy shiny covering and has now stopped fermenting. I used the wyeast 1318 smack pack with it. Does this sound familiar with this yeast? Am planning to bottle it at the weekend and probably just siphon the clear beer out between the two layers of yeasty stuff. Hope this is the right thing to do - the sneaky trial jar taste tests are fantastic, and sticking a syringe in to take a gravity sample doesn&#39;t seem to disturb the crud at all. Any advice gratefully received as always. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/all-grain-beer-engine-question#post-26463 Mon, 09 Jan 2012 19:25:45 +0000 Ed the BASS 26463@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Thanks Saracen,</p> <p>Great link.</p> <p>The only thing with the Dave Line book is that there are no alpha levels from his day nor are there any bitterness or colour numbers either, so I have best guessed from beer engine. The only numbers supplied with his recipe is the OG and FG. I will however dry hop after 3 days with some saaz hops that I have left over from another brew.</p> <p>Does the character of the beer change with differing yeasts?</p> <p>Thanks again</p> <p>Ed </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/think-i-may-have-my-first-major-problem#post-26239 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 23:28:46 +0000 saracen 26239@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>It&#39;s a consideration. If you keep it in the fridge it should be good for 3 months. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/think-i-may-have-my-first-major-problem#post-26235 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 23:24:18 +0000 stray66uk 26235@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Cheers saracen thats a relief. Its not just the cost of the ingredients its the hours of effort involved that makes it so disappointing when you think theres a problem. I did consider splitting it when i realised it was liquid yeast but I don&#39;t brew that often due to work so I&#39;m unsure whether the second batch would keep long enough. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/think-i-may-have-my-first-major-problem#post-26177 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 21:47:44 +0000 saracen 26177@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Don&#39;t worry. I used 1187 and it was a bit slow to start. 20°c should be OK. A commercial brewery would pitch around twice as much per 25 lts as you have in a Wyeast pack. When the yeast in the pack starts to work, being clever little characters, they know how many yeast cells there needs to be in order to ferment the whole batch properly. Until they&#39;ve reproduced that many, they don&#39;t start work. It will start and anything up to 36 hours is common. I always split Wyeast by making up a 2.0 lt batch of DME and adding the yeast. I leave it 72 hours to multiply properly, divide it intop 2 x 1.0 lt containers, pitch one and save the other to split again. If I was using the whole pack, I&#39;d make up a 1.0 lt starter 24 hours before pitching. I know what it says on the instructions, but a starter with any yeast will give it a better go. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/all-grain-beer-engine-question#post-26171 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 21:30:56 +0000 saracen 26171@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi Ed.</p> <p>Beer Engine is very straightforward once you&#39;ve got used to it.</p> <p>Firstly, set the figure at the top of the screen marked <strong>&#39;Volume [] Litres&#39;</strong> to the total volume you want to end up with, in your case 15 lts. On the right you see 2 boxes marked <strong>&#39;Original Gravity&#39;</strong> and <strong>&#39;Bitterness EBU&#39;</strong>. Un-tick those 2 boxes. Next set 2 more parameters. In the middle of the screen on the right you&#39;ll find 2 buttons marked <strong>&#39;%Weight&#39;</strong> and <strong>&#39;%Extract&#39;</strong>. Select <strong>&#39;%Extract&#39;</strong>. Next, below that in the bottom right hand corner, there are 2 more buttons marked <strong>&#39;%Weight&#39;</strong> and <strong>&#39;%EBU&#39;</strong>. Select <strong>&#39;%EBU&#39;</strong>. Get used to setting these every time you load the program as they are essential when it comes to formulating your own recipes.</p> <p>The figures on the right are projections worked out by the program, and this is one of the limitations of Beer Engine. In the brewing process you lose water to evaporation, soaking up by the grain and by the hops, and through what is called &#39;Dead Space&#39;, the space at the bottom of your boiler that collects all the rubbish. In some programs, you can set this to a figure specific to your set-up, but Beer Engine just guesses. In this case it has guessed you will lose 4.2 lts. I would say that is optimistic, but the program is suggesting that will be the amount you&#39;ll need to end up with 15 lts. Personally, I&#39;d prepare 25 lts. No big deal if you have a bit too much.</p> <p>Coming back to the settings. If you put in a recipe from a source a few years old, with the advances in agriculture hop Alpha Acid values will change year to year, and this is one of the biggest drawback&#39;s with Dave Line&#39;s book, which I presume is &quot;Brewing Beers like those you buy&quot;, you will find his hop quantities are far too great when using modern, well kept hops. The <strong>&#39;%EBU&#39;</strong> button enables you to put in a recipe with values for hops correct at the time of writing, if available, and, using the <strong>&#39;+&#39;</strong> and <strong>&#39;-&#39;</strong> buttons under the <strong>&#39;Hop Variety&#39;</strong> panel, adjust the alpha acid values to match the ingredients you are using. If you record the %EBU with the original values. you will be able to sadjust quantities or boil times to bring the figures into line again by getting the %ages right. Dave Lines was great in his day, but that was 40 years ago and things have moved on. Yes, his recipes work, but you must take the differences into account.</p> <p>The best book around now is Graham Wheeler&#39;s &quot;Brew your own British Real Ale&quot;. Even with that, it&#39;s necessary to put his recipes into an original Beer Engine, by which I mean one that hasn&#39;t had hop alpha acid values permanently changed in the database, record the EBU %ages, change the AA values, with the buttons, and juggle the figures to get it right.</p> <p>One other thing. If you want to formulate your own recipes look here:</p> <p><strong><a href="http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_styleguidelines.cfm" rel="nofollow">http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_styleguidelines.cfm</a>.</strong></p> <p>If you click on the stlye of beer you want to make, you get a whole description of that type of beer, together with the brewing parameters for ABV, Colour, Bitterness, etc, plus you get a list of suitable yeasts. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/think-i-may-have-my-first-major-problem#post-26167 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 21:16:14 +0000 stray66uk 26167@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I had a brew day saturday, Ringwood 49er. Everything went like clockwork. Mash, sparge, boil etc. Got the OG spot on and ended up with 24 litres. Happy Days.<br /> BUT this is the first time ive used a WYeast smack pack.<br /> I set the pack off 4 hours before i used it and it swelled up as per instructions. I added it to my wort which was sitting nicely at 20 degrees. Its in the brewfridge now at 20 degrees and nothing. No bubbling, no head or scum mark where one had been , nothing. Not overly inpressed with the old liquid yeast up to now as you can imagine. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/all-grain-beer-engine-question#post-26103 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 17:12:33 +0000 Ed the BASS 26103@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi all,</p> <p>I have just finished brewing my first all grain, a clone of a budweiser found in a Dave Line book received for xmas. I was, however, alarmed at the loss of liquor during the 90 min boil and had to top it up with water to the required volume. The OG was only 3 points off so hopefully it will be ok.</p> <p>Ok, so now my question. I have played with beer engine for another clone recipe for Bath Ales found on a website. I only want 15 litres but in the total liquor column it has requested 19.2. </p> <p>So is 19.2 the total amount of liquor I put into the boiler for a 90 min boil in order to achieve a final volume of 15 litres? </p> <p>Or am I making it more complicated!!!</p> <p>Thanks</p> <p>Ed </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/1sr-ag-underway#post-25918 Sat, 07 Jan 2012 18:58:45 +0000 StueyJ 25918@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Ok so I&#39;ve just taken a sample to check the gravity and it&#39;s crystal clear and taste&#39;s fantastic - very like the Malvern Hills Brewery Black Pear I&#39;ve just been enjoying at the rugby. (Worcester 21 - Gloucester 15 :-)) ) The gravity is down to 1.013 so nearly there I would think but there is a very gloopy trubby covering over the brew. I presume I should leave that there but would be very unhappy if it were to fall Into my lovely clear beer. This hobby is so exciting isn&#39;t it? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/heating-grist-before-adding-strike-liquor-1#post-25815 Fri, 06 Jan 2012 23:16:24 +0000 Hamish 25815@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I weigh my grains and put them in the brew fridge at a steady 20C the night before brew day, helps to get the mash temp right. I&#39;d bring them in the house if it was a warm house but I certainly wouldn&#39;t put them in the oven. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/heating-grist-before-adding-strike-liquor-1#post-25810 Fri, 06 Jan 2012 22:32:55 +0000 saracen 25810@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>No. I suppose it makes some sort of sense, but you would need to be very careful not to get it too hot. Anything over 80c and you will start to kill off the enzymes that make the whole conversi9on work.<br /> Don&#39;t bother, just keep it in a warm room for 48 hours before you use it. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/heating-grist-before-adding-strike-liquor-1#post-25807 Fri, 06 Jan 2012 22:29:05 +0000 kevin 25807@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi,</p> <p>I read an old book which recommended heating the grist in the oven before adding it to the liquor in the mash. It claimed an improvement in the wort all around. It makes sense as I presume it will reduce the thermal shock between room temp grist and the strike temp of the liquor. Has any one done this and what is the outcome like?</p> <p>Thanks </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/cool-box-size#post-25783 Fri, 06 Jan 2012 21:17:12 +0000 ewiecluie 25783@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I have used the boiler and it seamed fine- did a 60 min boil with it and it seamed ok (except that I screwed up the initial build and forgot to remove the thermal cut out of the kettle elements -had to dismantle and fix about 15mins in when they kept cutting out!). To be fair, I was a little dubious when i bought it to build the boiler with but i had seen someone else do it so thought it would be ok. Maybe in future I shall swap it over to a polypropylene one but it does seam ok last time I used it. Thanks for the advice, to be honest I wasn&#39;t even really aware that that kind was not supposed to be suitable!</p> <p>Re: Christmas Tree - the tree lives in our basement so it is always Christmas down there! Makes me a little happy as I love Christmas! It&#39;s got an Elvis statue on top. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/cool-box-size#post-25777 Fri, 06 Jan 2012 20:44:48 +0000 Mark 25777@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I love the christmas tree dumped in the background &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_biggrin.gif&quot; title=&quot;:D&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/cool-box-size#post-25775 Fri, 06 Jan 2012 20:41:59 +0000 Nath 25775@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Looking at you pic makes me feel all fuzzy inside. Proper diy all grain - just like myself! Reminds me of my old setup!</p> <p>Have you tested the boiler yet, I was told to use polypropylene plastic (like here - <a href="http://www.brewuk.co.uk/store/containers/fermenters/60-litre-fermentation-vessel-plain.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.brewuk.co.uk/store/containers/fermenters/60-litre-fermentation-vessel-plain.html</a> and here - <a href="http://www.brewuk.co.uk/store/containers/fermenters/brupaks-30-fermentation-vessel.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.brewuk.co.uk/store/containers/fermenters/brupaks-30-fermentation-vessel.html</a> ) as it was sutible for liquids up to 100c </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/cool-box-size#post-25767 Fri, 06 Jan 2012 20:18:59 +0000 ewiecluie 25767@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p><blockquote>piece of polystyrene covered in tinfoil on top of the grain in his mash tun to keep heat in </blockquote></p> <p>Great idea! Gonna make me one of these for next time! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/cool-box-size#post-25764 Fri, 06 Jan 2012 20:08:19 +0000 ewiecluie 25764@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I bought this one: <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Coleman-CG5248A752-Cooler-Combo-48Qt/dp/B000SSFCFC/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1325874884&amp;sr=8-9" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.co.uk/Coleman-CG5248A752-Cooler-Combo-48Qt/dp/B000SSFCFC/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1325874884&amp;sr=8-9</a></p> <p>Unfortunately I have very little experience (only 1 mash) so I am not very sure actually how good it is. I did find that the temperature did fall quite a bit over the course of the 23L mash I did. I would think because there was quite a lot of space for air in the cooler. Having said that I think my strike temperature was quite low and I did keep opening the lid (thought I could get away with a crappy meat thermometer, never again!) and I made a few other elementary mistakes. Now I have fitted thermometers to it this should be less of a problem so I will let you know how the next batch goes (hopefully next weekend time permitting)</p> <p>I am sure some of the other guys here with much more experience will have some good ideas about this, sorry I am of little help!</p> <p>Also, maybe have a look at this post, it may help: <a href="http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/how-big-your-mash-tun-needs-123585/" rel="nofollow">http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/how-big-your-mash-tun-needs-123585/</a></p> <p>Edit: Also, heres a pic of mine with thermometers fitted, hoping they will help me keep it at a more consistent temp.</p> <p><img src="http://fadeinfuture.net/users/ewen/Pictures/IMG_0431.JPG"><br /> Ewen </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/cool-box-size#post-25760 Fri, 06 Jan 2012 20:00:59 +0000 Nath 25760@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Some say that the same dimensions all round is best but to be honest I cant really see what difference it makes. </p> <p>Your 48 litre igloo should be fine, a lot of homebrewers use these.</p> <p>I would check the head space problem by filling the box up about 11 litres (what you want for a 23 litre batch at around 4.0%) Slap the top on, give it 60 mins then try the temp again. If its only dropped a degree or so then it should be fine.</p> <p>I think it was saracen who has a piece of polystyrene covered in tinfoil on top of the grain in his mash tun to keep heat in (correct me if im wrong someone!) which you could do if you find the temp drops too much for smaller batches. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/cool-box-size#post-25710 Thu, 05 Jan 2012 23:09:45 +0000 PaulGee 25710@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hey all</p> <p>I am going to start gathering equipment to go AG and have a question regarding cool box mash tuns. Does the shape and size of the cool box matter, is a tall box better than a shallow one and is the empty space above the grain an issue if doing a small brew? It&#39;s just that I have a 48 litre igloo cool box that may fit the bill.</p> <p>Cheers </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-all-grain-has-stopped-fermenting-after-24-hrs#post-25558 Wed, 04 Jan 2012 01:46:52 +0000 ewiecluie 25558@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Thanks for all the replies &amp; apologies that I didn&#39;t respond sooner, things got hectic over Christmas! I checked the gravity again today and it was 1.10. As my first full mash I know there were a few things done wrong &amp; not to the instructions.</p> <p>1. My mash was definitely at too low a temperature. It kept dropping so I kept adding boiling water to try to bring it up. I ended up with very little water left for a sparging &amp; I know that the mash, for the most part was too cool. </p> <p>2. The instructions also were pretty poor in specifying how much water I actually needed- I assumed 23L, ended up using about 25L but only ended up with about 15L of Wort in the end after boiling. Could this be why it has a high gravity- too concentrated?</p> <p>3. Probably didn&#39;t boil for the full hour ( i was in a mad rush!)</p> <p>4. Probably didn&#39;t cool the wort down enough before pitching the yeast. I did use a chiller but, again, I was rushing too much.</p> <p>From most of these I have learnt something though which is good!</p> <p>1. Fit thermometers to all of my equipment and dont rely on a crappy cheap dial meat probe thermometer.<br /> 2. Research better about how much water to use.<br /> 3&amp;4. Don&#39;t start a mash at 2.30pm when you need to go out at 7pm. Also, dont rush even if I do need to go out at 7pm!</p> <p>Any more ideas on this disaster would be appreciated!</p> <p>Thanks guys for being so willing to help and informative, fingers crossed my next brew goes better. Perhaps I will try a very simple beer next. Suggestions welcome too! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/1sr-ag-underway#post-25453 Mon, 02 Jan 2012 18:36:12 +0000 StueyJ 25453@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Cheers Nath. It&#39;s fermenting away nicely but I reckon it&#39;ll look like a wheat beer - will invest in some protafloc. Just drinking a small glass of the spiced honey beer - very impressed - a bit like a &#39;grown-up&#39; Hoegaerden. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/1sr-ag-underway#post-25450 Mon, 02 Jan 2012 17:55:55 +0000 Nath 25450@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Nice job Stuey, Im totally in love with protofloc. That. Stuff. ROCKS. I had the powdered form before it came out in tablets and I couldnt believe the difference. The break material was everywhere! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/hop-degredation#post-25434 Mon, 02 Jan 2012 07:26:34 +0000 Otter 25434@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Just wondering peeps whether beersmiths figures on hop degredation have any credence with you all,does it make any difference if they are frozen or just kept at 4degrees in a fridge,reason being i&#39;ve just found a shedload of styrians in me freezer which has been there over 12 monthes and yes i forget they were there,thoughts people please and yes i&#39;m used to abuse,broad shoulders and all that! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/1sr-ag-underway#post-25421 Sun, 01 Jan 2012 22:28:06 +0000 saracen 25421@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Well done, Stuey.<br /> I gave up on Irish Moss a long time ago, as did just about everyone else. Protofloc tablets is what you need. 10x better. Without a good cold break you can end up with beer that won&#39;t clear. Greg will send you some. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/1sr-ag-underway#post-25410 Sun, 01 Jan 2012 18:49:00 +0000 Hamish 25410@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Good job that man, very satisfying isn&#39;t it?. Now the waiting game.</p> <p>So using bottled water the pH was 5.7, thats at the top of the scale, though I&#39;m sure all will be good. Perfect for alpha amylase but not so good for beta amylase, the compromise is pH 5.3/5.4 but you already knew that. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/1sr-ag-underway#post-25409 Sun, 01 Jan 2012 18:36:44 +0000 StueyJ 25409@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>So all done in 7 hours and got 23litres bang on at 1.050 so just over the 75% efficiency which is very pleasing. The Irish moss didn&#39;t quite do what I expected the wort not being overly clear after the cold break - might need to invest in some protafloc for next time. Will upload pics once I&#39;ve worked out how to. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/1sr-ag-underway#post-25400 Sun, 01 Jan 2012 14:33:46 +0000 StueyJ 25400@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Cheers Saracen. The only reason I checked the pH is that I&#39;m using bottled water which seems to have quite a lot of bicarbonate in it so just wanted to see what it would do without any treatment at all. All going well at the moment. Home made mash tun worked well. Batch spared and now about 30 mins into the boil. I think I may have over-estimated losses and may end up with a larger volume of a weaker wort! But hey-ho first time I&#39;ve used my set-up so we&#39;ll see. Cheers. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/1sr-ag-underway#post-25395 Sun, 01 Jan 2012 13:56:24 +0000 saracen 25395@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Happy Hew Year to you, Stuey.</p> <p>The mash temp evens out as time goes on. If you check at the end you&#39;ll find it&#39;s about the same all over, maybe a little warmer at the top. 66° - 67°c is absolutely fine. I usually have a strike temp between 74°c and 78°c depending on how much grain I&#39;m using. It&#39;s not an exact science but you get used to it.<br /> Never worry with pH either. All I do is add half a teaspoon of Sodium Metabisulphite to 30 lts of water, boil it for half an hour and let it stand overnight for the chalk to drop out. I really can&#39;t see the point of adding a load of chemicals right at the start when the object of the exercise is to make beer free of all the crap the breweries use. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/1sr-ag-underway#post-25386 Sun, 01 Jan 2012 11:33:01 +0000 StueyJ 25386@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Morning chaps and chapesses. Happy new year! Got my first resolution on the go at 0830 today starting the summer lightning kit. So far so good. Mash smells great and due to start sparging in 20 mins. Only problem so far was working out what the mash temp actually was. Seemed to vary depending on where I put my probe despite stirring it up well. I reckon it was about 66-67&#39;c overall. pH came out at 5.7 which I&#39;m happy with. Will try to post some photos later. Cheers. Stuey. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-25212 Fri, 30 Dec 2011 00:17:24 +0000 stuwilliams 25212@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Very true! Not planning to drill the lot in one sitting thankfully. Had a chat with a few brew mates tonight and am thinking about just cutting a disc out of the middle and fitting a stainless spatter guard instead... Decisions decisions. Managed two brews during December thankfully so no rush. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-25195 Thu, 29 Dec 2011 18:59:36 +0000 Monk 25195@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I hope you factored in a dozen 2mm bits. I wouldn&#39;t fancy that job with a hand held drill.<br /> You might get away with 50-70 holes for drainage I&#39;d say, but might need half a dozen around the edge, to catch that dead space. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-25186 Thu, 29 Dec 2011 17:05:50 +0000 stuwilliams 25186@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Well, the gods are clearly smiling on me.  The Stainless Steel tray i<br /> bought from ebay just arrived.  Its thick, solid and great quality,<br /> but more importantly it fits like a glove into the tun.  No wobbling<br /> or movement so I think I&#39;ll<br /> be able to get away with not having the plastic piping around the<br /> edge.  It was 9.99 delivered so VERY happy with that.  Total build<br /> cost so far &lt;£110.</p> <p>Also, because of its depth, I plan to use upside down which should<br /> also negate the need for the stainless bolt &quot;legs&quot; to give clearance<br /> underneath.</p> <p>Next step, loads of bloody holes to drill and work out a removable<br /> connecter to the tap.  hmmmm.<br /> <img src="http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad340/stuwilliams/09b348fc.jpg"><br /> <img src="http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad340/stuwilliams/429e0713.jpg"> </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-25092 Wed, 28 Dec 2011 02:51:51 +0000 stuwilliams 25092@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Understood. &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_wink.gif&quot; title=&quot;;-)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; and its jolly decent of you to post the pics. I reckon they should see me right to having a crack myself. I&#39;ll let you know how I get on... All things being right I should come in well under 150 quid for the whole lot. Albeit drilling the holes in the bottom is going to take ages.... </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-hops#post-25087 Wed, 28 Dec 2011 00:34:28 +0000 Nath 25087@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm 1968. My house yeast, Mmmmmmmmm </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-hops#post-25081 Tue, 27 Dec 2011 22:07:23 +0000 saracen 25081@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Glad we could assist, Otter. 1275 is a Medium-Low Floculation yeast and consequently would be difficult to clear and very susceptible to movement of the barrel/bottle. 1968, on the other hand, is much better for clearing. Nath and I both use it a lot and find it clears within 10 days or so of barreling. 1335 is another good one for clearing. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-hops#post-25079 Tue, 27 Dec 2011 21:59:40 +0000 Otter 25079@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi guys,what a result on my queries thanks a million<br /> Am based in canterbury and as a result of the earthquakes have limited access to ingredients so found the dunedin malt house which is awesome,i did pick up some wyeyeast smackpacks namely 1275 and 1968 also got some target hops and pacific jade,so many ideas and so little time to get brews going before harvest!<br /> Never get your bits out for an airing in canterbury hamish ,they will either get frazzled by heat or dessicated by the norwest wind,will get onto the yeast flocculation question now,it might explain why my last brew took an age to clear properly,once again thanks,otter </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-hops#post-25068 Tue, 27 Dec 2011 17:51:09 +0000 Nath 25068@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Can I get a WOOP! &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_cool.gif&quot; title=&quot;8)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-25063 Tue, 27 Dec 2011 17:39:36 +0000 Monk 25063@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I can&#39;t really give any more detail, as the guy who kitted the whole thing out for me is a direct competitor of these dudes, and I&#39;d be giving away all his secrets without a name-drop. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-hops#post-25054 Tue, 27 Dec 2011 14:35:48 +0000 saracen 25054@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p><blockquote>yield up, prices down.</blockquote></p> <p>That&#39;s my sort of crop report! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-hops#post-25053 Tue, 27 Dec 2011 14:08:41 +0000 Hamish 25053@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p><blockquote>he did say that american hops would be like hens teeth this coming year as weather has been diabolical for production and what was available would be staying in the states</blockquote></p> <p>I think we&#39;ll be ok.</p> <p>Harvested area down, yield up, prices down. Notice the tonnage of expensive hops such as Citra and Simcoe has doubled. &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_biggrin.gif&quot; title=&quot;:D&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> <p><a href="http://www.usahops.org/graphics/File/Statistics/National%20Hop%20Report-NASS%2012-11.pdf"><u><strong>USDA hop crop report</strong></u></a> </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-hops#post-25019 Mon, 26 Dec 2011 17:43:46 +0000 Hamish 25019@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p><blockquote>I&#39;m gonna be re doing it again this year</blockquote></p> <p>Leave the Motueka alone!, I want them. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-hops#post-25017 Mon, 26 Dec 2011 17:39:07 +0000 Nath 25017@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I also brewed a Mouteka hop pale 6% and 60ibu. It was nice but got way better after a long conditioning time. Great hops though, really really nice. Here&#39;s the recipe I did:-</p> <p>BeerSmith Recipe Printout - <a href="http://www.beersmith.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.beersmith.com</a><br /> Recipe: Trhopical rain extended times!<br /> Brewer: Nath<br /> Asst Brewer:<br /> Style: American IPA<br /> TYPE: All Grain<br /> Taste: (35.0)</p> <p>Recipe Specifications<br /> --------------------------<br /> Batch Size: 20.00 L<br /> Boil Size: 26.63 L<br /> Estimated OG: 1.062 SG<br /> Estimated Color: 10.6 EBC<br /> Estimated IBU: 61.6 IBU<br /> Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 %<br /> Boil Time: 60 Minutes</p> <p>Ingredients:<br /> ------------<br /> Amount Item Type % or IBU<br /> 5.20 kg Pale Malt, Maris Otter (5.9 EBC) Grain 100.00 %<br /> 15.00 gm Magnum [15.70 %] (70 min) Hops 27.1 IBU<br /> 10.00 gm Magnum [15.70 %] (40 min) Hops 15.4 IBU<br /> 38.00 gm Motukea [7.20 %] (15 min) Hops 13.6 IBU<br /> 38.00 gm Motukea [7.20 %] (5 min) Hops 5.5 IBU<br /> 1 Pkgs British Ale (Wyeast Labs #1098) [Starter 2Yeast-Ale</p> <p>Mash Schedule: My Mash<br /> Total Grain Weight: 5.20 kg<br /> ----------------------------<br /> My Mash<br /> Step Time Name Description Step Temp<br /> 90 min Mash Add 13.00 L of water at 73.0 C 66.3 C</p> <p>If I were to change anything I would cut out the 5 min addition and just add it at flameout to increase the aroma. The beer was my 3rd all grain so no water treatments or anything. I&#39;m gonna be re doing it again this year with a bit of tinkering </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-25014 Mon, 26 Dec 2011 17:28:45 +0000 Nath 25014@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Where abouts did the false bottom come them then mate? Looks sweet - got a price? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-hops#post-25005 Mon, 26 Dec 2011 13:33:06 +0000 Hamish 25005@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Be careful in the sun, I know how badly you Kiwi&#39;s burn. &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_eek.gif&quot; title=&quot;8O&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> <p><img src="http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/2444/97774859.png"></p> <p>I brewed a simcoe motueka pale which was very good indeed, maybe you could swap the simcoe for your kohatu. Use US-05 if you can&#39;t get hold of Wyeast, I don&#39;t know what its like in Dunedin but up in Canterbury a mate of mine has a pretty limited choice of ingredients.</p> <p>Pale malt 4000g 89.9%<br /> Carapils or Wheat malt 250g 5.6%<br /> Crystal malt 200g 4.5%</p> <p>Simcoe 12.9% 15g 60 minutes<br /> Motueka 6.0% 20g 10 minutes<br /> Simcoe 12.9% 20g 10 minutes<br /> Motueka 6.0% 80g 0 minutes<br /> Simcoe 12.9% 65g 0 minutes</p> <p>Protafloc tablet 10 minutes</p> <p>WYeast 1056 American Ale</p> <p>Final Volume: 23 litres<br /> Original Gravity: 1.043<br /> Final Gravity: 1.011<br /> Alcohol Content: 4.2% ABV<br /> Mash Efficiency: 75%<br /> Bitterness: 36 EBU<br /> Colour: 15 EBC </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-hops#post-25000 Mon, 26 Dec 2011 12:42:25 +0000 saracen 25000@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi Otter.<br /> I&#39;m going to post this a bit at a time, because so far the computer has crashed and trashed the whole lot 6 times!</p> <p>The US Hallertau substitution could be Liberty.<br /> Take a look here:</p> <p><a href="http://byo.com/resources/hops" rel="nofollow">http://byo.com/resources/hops</a></p> <p>If you use the drop down bar at the top to select the style of beer you are making, it suggests all the hops thought suitable for that style of beer. I don&#39;t agree with Nortern Brewer being suggested as a Magnum replacement. Magnum is usually described as; <em>&#39;a good, clean, all purpose bittering hop..... sometimes described as having a floral character.&#39;</em> Northern Brewer is decribed as; <em>&#39;Medium-strong with some wild tones.&#39;</em> You could go for Apollo at AA 19.5%, but personally I don&#39;t think the high alpha bittering hops are suitable for small batch brewing. With only 12 gms needed for 23 lts, you don&#39;t get a representative sample of the pack, or indeed of the 5 kg pack it was packed from. I think go for a lower AA and maybe the Australian Super Pride or, for a summer beer, Pacific Jade. Newport is another and maybe Simcoe. In UK, we are currently buying 2008 German crop Magnum, so you should be able to find them.<br /> For substitutes, look here:</p> <p><a href="http://www.brew365.com/hop_substitution_chart.php" rel="nofollow">http://www.brew365.com/hop_substitution_chart.php</a></p> <p>Yeast is another whole world. I don&#39;t know what types of Liquid Yeast, if any, you can get hold of, but take a look here:</p> <p><a href="http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_products.cfm" rel="nofollow">http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_products.cfm</a></p> <p>at the Yeast Style Guide and the Yeast Strain Guide on the left. For conversion to White labs look here:</p> <p><a href="http://www.mrmalty.com/yeast.htm" rel="nofollow">http://www.mrmalty.com/yeast.htm</a></p> <p>Not everyone is too convinced of the accuracy of the conversion, but it will do for our purposes. On the Wyeast site, look at the Floculation and Attenuation figures. Unless you can filter your beer, don&#39;t go for meduim or low Floculation because it&#39;s unlikely to clear. The favourite for British styles seems to be Wyeast 1968 or White Labs WLP 002. For American style Pales, Wyeast 1272 is good and converts to White Labs WLP 052. I also use Wyeast 1335 with good results. US-05 will give you a drier finish to your beer and is a very reliable yeast.</p> <p>Lastly, do you have any Beer Software?<br /> You can download Beer Engine free here:</p> <p><a href="http://www.practicalbrewing.co.uk/calculators/beerengine/" rel="nofollow">http://www.practicalbrewing.co.uk/calculators/beerengine/</a></p> <p>You need to go into the Grain and Hop editors (top row) to make sure the info is up to date, especially regarding the hop Alpha Acid contents, but it&#39;s a good program for getting basic recipes together. Both the recipes I posted come from there. Hope this is helpful. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-24989 Sun, 25 Dec 2011 21:54:05 +0000 stuwilliams 24989@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>You sir, are a legend! Thanks so much. Merry Xmas! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-24984 Sun, 25 Dec 2011 19:04:18 +0000 Monk 24984@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p><img src="http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m489/zqmonk/Photo0049.jpg"><img src="http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m489/zqmonk/Photo0046.jpg"><img src="http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m489/zqmonk/Photo0044.jpg"><img src="http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m489/zqmonk/Photo0042.jpg"><img src="http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m489/zqmonk/Photo0039.jpg"><img src="http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m489/zqmonk/Photo0037.jpg"> </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-24980 Sun, 25 Dec 2011 15:17:11 +0000 Monk 24980@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>The rod above the tap is a dial thermometer probe.<br /> The oversize slot &amp; loose filling piece isn&#39;t really necessary. Just go a couple of mil&#39; oversize to start with and work from their.</p> <p>The last mesh pic is inverted (Just keepin&#39; up international relations.....You Know?.... We were given em the bird!)</p> <p>The last two pics show the tap with false bottom removed. The tap touches the bottom, but is cut on the bias.</p> <p>The nattiest bit is the syphon tube used to make a comfort fit around the false bottom.</p> <p>Good luck. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-hops#post-24962 Sun, 25 Dec 2011 02:40:30 +0000 Otter 24962@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Saracen your a bloody leg/end as they say around here,awesome in the fact that i also have some maris otter malt just bought from dunedin so im set up to have a crack,would you use a 05 yeast or a preference for something else?<br /> Chap in the brew shop in dunedin did have what he thought to be a replacement for hallertau aroma from the states which was supposed to be the bees knees,for the life of me i cant remember the name but he did say that american hops would be like hens teeth this coming year as weather has been diabolical for production and what was available would be staying in the states<br /> No magnum hops but can easily find a substitute to replace,drinking macs hop rocker at the moment which has cascade and nelson sauvin in and it hits the spot just fine and sorry you all but it is 28 degrees,no wind(unusual for canterbury plains)cornflower blue skies-anyone for a roast turkey dinner? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-24938 Sat, 24 Dec 2011 17:51:24 +0000 stuwilliams 24938@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Much appreciated &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_smile.gif&quot; title=&quot;:-)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-24937 Sat, 24 Dec 2011 17:48:20 +0000 Monk 24937@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I hav&#39;nt posted pics before, but I&#39;ll take a few on my phone and get my little sis to sort it out tommorrow. I&#39;ll try on here first, and get your email if it doesn&#39;t work out.<br /> I also have a probe thermometer fitted just above the tap.<br /> Once you&#39;ve got the shiny bug you start taking yourself all too seriously. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-24934 Sat, 24 Dec 2011 17:28:47 +0000 stuwilliams 24934@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Monk I&#39;d be very interested to see a pic or five of that false bottom... If you&#39;re up for it, I can give an email address if easier than posting on here? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-24931 Sat, 24 Dec 2011 16:29:35 +0000 Monk 24931@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I have one of those mash tuns.<br /> I bought it fitted with a removable false bottom, that has a maliable plastic sleeve fitted around it for a snug fit, and little legs made out of nuts &amp; bolts to raise it 10mm or so off the bottom.<br /> The tap cranks over on the inside taking it through the mesh and to within 2 or 3mm of the bottom to reduce dead space.<br /> Also, being cylindrical, a fly sparge is a simple upgrade. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-24925 Sat, 24 Dec 2011 14:11:44 +0000 saracen 24925@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Is this Deja-vu, or did you post it in the wrong place, Otter?</p> <p>Oh yes, Happy, Sunny, Hot, Beach-playing, Barbi-ing Christmas to you and yours.<br /> Got any o&#39; them shrimps left?</p> <p>I&#39;ve posted a couple of recipes ideas for a summer style beer foryou, but unfortunately, when it&#39;s ready, we&#39;ll be having a Summer, and you&#39;ll be out in your overcoat! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-hops#post-24923 Sat, 24 Dec 2011 14:02:28 +0000 saracen 24923@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Nice to hear from you, Otter. Hamish is a lover of Motueka, but I&#39;ve never heard of Kohatu. I looked it up and this is what I found, mostly for the benefit of us Poms.</p> <p><blockquote>Alpha 6.8<br /> Cohumulone 21.0<br /> Oils /gram alpha 123 uL/g<br /> This is a big aroma hop with intense floral characters of pine needles and tropical fruit. Trial brews brewed with this hop were only moderately hoped and displayed great quality of bitterness and well rounded fruity hop characters which would certainly be enhanced through increased hoping rates.</blockquote></p> <p>What about this one? Wai-iti.</p> <p><blockquote>Alpha 3.0<br /> Cohumulone 26.0<br /> Oils/gram alpha 437 uL/G<br /> This hop has a reasonable weight of oil which is further enhanced as a ratio to alpha based on this variety being selected as a low alpha type to showcase its aroma characters which are startlingly of citrus made up of mandarin, lemon and lime zest..really intense. Low Coh adds to the overall quality of the finish which is soft.</blockquote></p> <p>Wai-iti sounds great, and Kohatu should lend itself to a high hop American IPA style. Similar sounding to Chinook but probably with a better aroma contribution. Wai-iti would make an interesting substitution for Cascade or maybe Amarillo as an aroma hop, combined with Magnum for the bittering.</p> <p>This made a good beer for the summer. I&#39;ve put the hop schedule for Kohatu underneath.</p> <p>Maris Otter Pale Malt. 4.5 EBC. 3850 grams. 89.4% of Extract<br /> Crystal Malt (Low Colour). 60 EBC. 220 grams. 4.5% of Extract<br /> CaraRed. 50 EBC. 220 grams. 4.3% of Extract<br /> Torrefied Wheat. 4 EBC. 85 grams. 1.8% of Extract</p> <p>Magnum Whole. AA 12.7%. 75 mins. 25 grams. 91.2% EBU<br /> Wai-iti Whole. AA 3.0%. 10 mins. 30 grams. 8.8% EBU<br /> Wai-iti Whole. AA 3.0%. 0 mins. 30 grams. 0% (Steeped at Flameout. 80°c for 30 minutes)<br /> Wai-iti Whole. AA 3.0%. 0 mins. 20 grams. 0% (Dry hop in FV after 3 days)</p> <p>Final Volume: 23 Litres<br /> Original Gravity: 1.045<br /> Final Gravity: 1.011<br /> Alcohol Content: 4.4% ABV<br /> Total Liquor: 32.7 Litres<br /> Mash Liquor: 10.9 Litres<br /> Mash Efficiency: 80 %<br /> Bitterness: 39 EBU<br /> Colour: 15 EBC </p> <p><strong>Kohatu Hop Schedule.</strong></p> <p>Magnum Whole AA 12.7%. 75 mins. 25 grams 87.2% EBU<br /> Kohatu Whole AA 6.8%. 10 mins. 20 grams 12.8% EBU<br /> Kohatu Whole AA 6.8%. 0 mins. 20 grams 0% (Steeped at Flameout. 80°c for 30 minutes)<br /> Kohatu Whole AA 6.8%. 0 mins. 15 grams 0% (Dry hop in FV after 3 days) </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-hops#post-24918 Sat, 24 Dec 2011 10:10:25 +0000 stray66uk 24918@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>[/Blimey its hot]</p> <p>Bloody hell thats below the belt !!</p> <p>No idea on the hops but someone will be on soon &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_smile.gif&quot; title=&quot;:-)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-hops#post-24917 Sat, 24 Dec 2011 04:49:20 +0000 Otter 24917@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Blimey its hot,greetings from sunny nz and happy xmas to one and all.<br /> Just laid my hands on some motueka and kohatu hops and was wondering on a recipe,water suits a pale ale along american lines but as to malt ratios?All ideas gratefully received,cheers </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-24916 Sat, 24 Dec 2011 04:44:02 +0000 Otter 24916@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>New hops<br /> Blimey its hot,greetings from sunny nz and happy xmas to one and all.Just laid my hands on some motueka and kohatu hops and was wondering what everybody thought as to a recipe,water suits a pale ale along american lines but as to malt ratios?all ideas gratefully received </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-24915 Sat, 24 Dec 2011 01:24:26 +0000 stuwilliams 24915@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I feel your pain, plausible denIability helps... </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-24911 Sat, 24 Dec 2011 00:04:19 +0000 saracen 24911@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hmmmm. Makes me think there were better things to spend my cash on today than a microwave, a quilt and a load of bed linen. The joy of being married. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-24892 Fri, 23 Dec 2011 19:08:08 +0000 stuwilliams 24892@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Well, I&#39;m hedging my bets. I&#39;ve bought a 45cm stainless steel tray from eBay for 9 quid. Im not brewing until the new year so going to ponder my options for a while. Good to know they are sold here though, had no idea. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-24891 Fri, 23 Dec 2011 18:54:14 +0000 Nath 24891@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Lucky sod!</p> <p>It was on my xmas list but may have to wait a little to get one of these bad boys. If your gonna use that tap hole then why not get a false bottom made or buy one like this - <a href="http://www.brewuk.co.uk/store/catalogsearch/result/?q=false+bottom" rel="nofollow">http://www.brewuk.co.uk/store/catalogsearch/result/?q=false+bottom</a> and just use &quot;as is&quot;, save all that messing around. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-24887 Fri, 23 Dec 2011 18:40:39 +0000 stuwilliams 24887@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Dude, I can&#39;t believe my luck. The tap it comes with is easy to desperate into the bit that fits the wall, and the pikey plastic handle. Even more lucky, a ball valve screws directly into it, and I had a spare in my plumbing box.<br /> Now just gotta work out whether to go false bottom or copper manifold... Thoughts?<br /> Better get shares in Kleenex, more pics below...<br /> <img src="http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad340/stuwilliams/d383164d.jpg"><br /> <img src="http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad340/stuwilliams/af68281c.jpg"><br /> <img src="http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad340/stuwilliams/c9bc5cc0.jpg"><br /> <img src="http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad340/stuwilliams/8396ac51.jpg"> </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-24885 Fri, 23 Dec 2011 18:33:07 +0000 Nath 24885@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Tissue time.</p> <p>Thats well sexy, what diameter is the hole the taps in?</p> <p>Not a weird sex question, just wanna know if it can take my pipe &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_twisted.gif&quot; title=&quot;:twisted:&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> <p>copper pipe that is. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-24874 Fri, 23 Dec 2011 14:27:06 +0000 stuwilliams 24874@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Mmmmmmm my precious....<br /> Quick delivery.<br /> <img src="http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad340/stuwilliams/8813bdd0.jpg"> </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-ag-hopback-sumer-lightning-q#post-24869 Fri, 23 Dec 2011 11:41:19 +0000 Iestyn 24869@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Brilliant! Thanks so much Saracen, I&#39;ve loaded the beer engine and run the stats through. Happy with that &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_biggrin.gif&quot; title=&quot;:D&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> <p>Probably my last post now for a while so have a great Christmas and New Year</p> <p>Iestyn </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-ag-hopback-sumer-lightning-q#post-24826 Thu, 22 Dec 2011 19:48:12 +0000 saracen 24826@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi Iestyn</p> <p>What you need to do is put the recipe into some brewing software.</p> <p>You can download Beer Engine here. <a href="http://www.practicalbrewing.co.uk/calculators/beerengine/" rel="nofollow">http://www.practicalbrewing.co.uk/calculators/beerengine/</a></p> <p>As you are only looking for some quantities and not adjusting the recipe for current Alpha Acid values, it&#39;s quite straightforward.</p> <p><strong>Hop Back Summer Lightning. 23 lts AG</strong></p> <p>Pale Malt. 5 EBC. 4990 grams. 100% </p> <p>Challenger Whole. <strong>AA 7.6%.</strong> 90 mins. 46 grams<br /> Golding Whole. <strong>AA 5.7%.</strong> 10 mins. 15 grams<br /> Golding Whole. <strong>AA 5.7%.</strong> 0 mins. 9 grams (Post Boil. Steep for 30 inutes at 80°c)</p> <p><strong>Final Volume: 23 Litres</strong><br /> Original Gravity: 1.049<br /> Final Gravity: 1.011<br /> Alcohol Content: 4.9% ABV<br /> <strong>Total Liquor: 33.3 Litres</strong><br /> <strong>Mash Liquor: 12.5 Litres</strong><br /> Mash Efficiency: 75 %<br /> Bitterness: 41 EBU (This is a bit out, proabaly because of a discrepancy in the AA value.)<br /> Colour: 8 EBC </p> <p>Mash = 12.5 lts<br /> Total Volume of water required for brewing = 33.3 lts.</p> <p>The total takes account of losses in the system.<br /> For sparging, use enough to collect a total of 23 lts of wort. Check the Gravity and you&#39;ll see how much more water you need to add to get to the correct Gravity. Add water before the boil to as high as the boiler will take without boiling over, and add water into the FV at the end to make up the quantity required.</p> <p>Check the Alpha Acid content of your hops before you start and compare it with the values quoted in Beer Engine. If the figures are different, you&#39;ll need to adjust the quantities in Beer Engine to get the right EBU. Before you adjust anything, make sure the value in the bottom right hand corner is set to &quot;%age EBU&quot;. Make a note of the %age figures shown on the right of the &#39;Hop Variety&#39; window with the original recipe, then change your Alpha Acid content with the buttons below the window, and juggle the quantities to get the same %ages as the original recipe. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-ag-hopback-sumer-lightning-q#post-24803 Thu, 22 Dec 2011 15:13:59 +0000 Iestyn 24803@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi guys and gals,</p> <p>My AG kit is almost ready. I need one test before having a go at the Hopback Summer Lightning next week.</p> <p>I think I’m clued up on the basic process, but I’m a little grey on the amounts of water to be used?</p> <p>- How much water for the mash? (for 4.99kg Crushed Maris Otter)</p> <p>- How much for the sparge? (aiming for 23 litres/ 40 pints)</p> <p>(some water loss to hops - 24grm Goldings Hops/ 46grm Challenger Hops)</p> <p>Once I know this; I’m pretty much ready.</p> <p>Many thanks</p> <p>Iestyn </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-24655 Tue, 20 Dec 2011 19:50:07 +0000 stuwilliams 24655@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>All in with shipping, about 95 quid. I&#39;m planning on doing the big/small beer thing so a brew day will net me at least 50L.<br /> Plus it&#39;ll look wicked next to my s/s kettle when I finally go gas... </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-24649 Tue, 20 Dec 2011 19:39:39 +0000 Nath 24649@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>70ltr will be fine, probably better at keeping heat if you also do smaller batches (25ltr brews).</p> <p>How much did you pay if ya dont mind, ive been looking at one for a while to go with my s/s nordic kettle </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-24637 Tue, 20 Dec 2011 17:32:43 +0000 stuwilliams 24637@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>DIY skills are not bad, and I&#39;ve a fair armoury built up.<br /> But...<br /> I bought the 70 with a tap. Like you say Saracen, it&#39;s plenty big enough and doubles what I&#39;m using now. Given that it was a few quid cheaper and will be way easier I couldn&#39;t refuse really. Can still get my DIY fix by swapping tap and fitting a false bottom.<br /> Let the good times roll. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-24624 Tue, 20 Dec 2011 15:51:00 +0000 Hamish 24624@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>How are your DIY skills?. There are a few examples over at Jim&#39;s where people have converted a thermo pot, maybe the other place too, thehomebrewforum </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-24615 Tue, 20 Dec 2011 15:03:47 +0000 saracen 24615@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I would have thought 70lt for a mash tun was more than adequate.<br /> The way you&#39;re planning to fit a tap is the way most do it, and Hamish has some good photos of it on here somewhere. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/new-shiny-tun-advice-needed#post-24585 Mon, 19 Dec 2011 22:06:49 +0000 stuwilliams 24585@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Evening all.<br /> Was just about to pull the trigger on a new mash tun, one of those s/s marmite thermos jobbies from the german company that sells on ebay.fr. I&#39;d got the price from them for the 80L which I think is pretty reasonable, and then noticed that they do a 70L that has a tap fitted, which would make swapping for a proper ball valve tap much easier.<br /> So, what would you do? get the smaller one and have an easier life, or get the bigger one and have a crack?<br /> I fitted ball valves on my other kit no problem, but my concern here is that because its double skinned, then getting a good seal would be tricky. I was planning on drilling a bigger hole through the outside skin, than the inside, so that I could clamp the tank fixing just to that inside skin. Does that sound stupid? How would you do it?</p> <p>I&#39;m just having a wobble, and need a good slapping and somebody to just tell me to do it. Feel free &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_biggrin.gif&quot; title=&quot;:D&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/brewing-40-pints-without-the-correct-equipment#post-24447 Sun, 18 Dec 2011 00:59:55 +0000 saracen 24447@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi Tim.<br /> Really, you need to buy or make a mash tun. It&#39;s difficult in a pot because of sparging and filtration issues.<br /> A bigger issue is that you really do need to boil the lot in one go. The other way is Brew-In-A-Bag. Not something I know much about but there are plenty around here who can advise you. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/brewing-40-pints-without-the-correct-equipment#post-24418 Sat, 17 Dec 2011 17:10:44 +0000 Timbo77 24418@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hello all!</p> <p>First time on here for me...*waves*<br /> Right then, last year sometime I decided to have a go at making a gallon of beer from an allgrain recipe and to be fair, turned out quite quaffable! &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_smile.gif&quot; title=&quot;:)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; I have decided that I&#39;d like to have a go at one of the 40 pint allgrain recipes featured on this website. However, I do not have the equipment to mash or boil up 40 pints at a time. Can I make do with mashing the grain in smaller quantities using a 3 gallon stock pot and an oven? I have a 5 gallon bucket to ferment it all in but just wondered if I can mash the grain a bit at a time or should I bite the bullet and splash out on a mash tun?</p> <p>I hope I&#39;m making sense.....</p> <p>Cheers!<br /> Tim </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/strange-yeast-lumps-floating-on-top#post-24401 Sat, 17 Dec 2011 00:03:04 +0000 stray66uk 24401@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>The yeast was nottingham. Bottled it up tonight. What a pain in the arse bottling is. Its much easier to bung it in a barrel but I prefer my beer to be a bit more lively. I have a Rocker APA in the barrel but its as flat as a fart in comparison to my Amarillo in the bottle. Think i need to start saving for a couple of cornie kegs &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_wink.gif&quot; title=&quot;:wink:&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/strange-yeast-lumps-floating-on-top#post-24360 Fri, 16 Dec 2011 18:15:24 +0000 Nath 24360@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>What yeast yeast you use? A few of us got this a while back with some s04 but it was fine, I sometimes get it with wyeast 1968 - itt clumps together so well but doesnt drop, just sort a stays there like a floating brain! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/strange-yeast-lumps-floating-on-top#post-24318 Thu, 15 Dec 2011 23:05:02 +0000 stray66uk 24318@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I did my first all-grain brew about 12 days ago. Its the timothy taylor landlord kit. Its been out in the brew fridge at a steady 20 degrees for 12 days. Ive just brought it inside to settle again before bottling over the weekend and Ive noticed the top is almost covered in big yeast lumps. Is this normal with all-grain as the extract kits ive done only had sediment or yeast on the bottom. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/grain-proportions-in-a-brew#post-24286 Thu, 15 Dec 2011 19:58:31 +0000 stuwilliams 24286@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Thanks both.<br /> Hamish - that&#39;s a particularly useful link. Nicely done. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/grain-proportions-in-a-brew#post-24254 Thu, 15 Dec 2011 00:34:53 +0000 saracen 24254@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Found this earlier on the shop site when I was looking up a Bavarian beer.</p> <p><blockquote>Wheat beers are deservedly popular all over the world but until now have been difficult to brew at home. For the malt extract we have used <strong>the classic ratio of 55% wheat and 45% barley</strong> and the Hallertauer Hersbrucker hops give just a delicate hint of bitterness. Although we have used a bottom fermenting yeast, the characteristic estery flavours are much in evidence when fermenting at warmer temperatures (20°C - 25°C).</blockquote> </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/grain-proportions-in-a-brew#post-24250 Wed, 14 Dec 2011 22:33:42 +0000 Hamish 24250@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hmm, how long is a piece of string?.</p> <p>The <a href="http://www.brupaks.com/BRUPAKS%20GRAIN%20GUIDE%20WEB.htm"><u>Brupaks guide to grains</u></a> might help. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/grain-proportions-in-a-brew#post-24249 Wed, 14 Dec 2011 22:19:38 +0000 stuwilliams 24249@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Evening all.<br /> Anyone got any rule of thumbs for % of each type of grain to use when building a recipe? Nothing too fancy, just looking for a little guidance about how much wheat, and munich I can throw in. Never bothered me up to now, but always looking to further my knowledge. Last half dozen brews have been about trying different hops to &quot;get my eye in&quot;, or at least thats my excuse. I&#39;d typically been using 5kg pale, 1kg munich, 1kg wheat, and have no complaints. Have a vague memory about being told not to go over 10% on other grains though, but not sure what type of other grains that was for.<br /> Cheers in advance </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-all-grain-has-stopped-fermenting-after-24-hrs#post-24237 Wed, 14 Dec 2011 20:52:18 +0000 Nath 24237@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>If you made it to the letter then that reading must have been wrong as the gravity should have been around 1.048.</p> <p>Have you managed to take another gravity reading (making sure all is sanitised properly)? You may find it will be lower now, which means its still fermenting away, just with little action.</p> <p>If I were you I would leave it alone, sealed up for a week or so, then check the gravity, me thinks it will be fine </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-all-grain-has-stopped-fermenting-after-24-hrs#post-24225 Wed, 14 Dec 2011 15:04:21 +0000 ewiecluie 24225@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Thanks so much for all the help guys!</p> <p>It was bought from here but unfortunately is no longer on the website. I think this is the kit from a different supplier: <a href="http://www.stonehelm.co.uk/BeerKits/Brupaks/BavarianWeissbier40pt" rel="nofollow">http://www.stonehelm.co.uk/BeerKits/Brupaks/BavarianWeissbier40pt</a> </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-all-grain-has-stopped-fermenting-after-24-hrs#post-24213 Wed, 14 Dec 2011 01:12:19 +0000 Nath 24213@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>1.12 is quite high, can you link the kit so we can check what the gravity should have been? Cheers mate, don&#39;t fret we will get to the bottom of it. Sure it will be fine </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-all-grain-has-stopped-fermenting-after-24-hrs#post-24207 Wed, 14 Dec 2011 00:42:15 +0000 ewiecluie 24207@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I think its 1.12 was hard to tell with the foam!<br /> Its a bavarian wies beer from an all grain kit that i bought here but it looks a good colour! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-all-grain-has-stopped-fermenting-after-24-hrs#post-24136 Tue, 13 Dec 2011 15:36:05 +0000 Greg 24136@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Whats your gravity reading Ewen? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/first-all-grain-has-stopped-fermenting-after-24-hrs#post-24135 Tue, 13 Dec 2011 14:43:08 +0000 ewiecluie 24135@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I did my first all grain brew on Saturday and appart from it being a nightmare (boiler broke half way through, ended up rushing at the end as I had to go out) the fermentation took a while to start. It didnt start till Monday morning (or Sunday night while I was asleep) and has now stopped (tuesday morning).</p> <p>The mash would not hold the required temp, had to keep adding boiling water and the yeast was possibly added while the brew was a little on the warm side as i was rushing to cool it down- it was fairly cold but i reckon still around high 20 degrees C.</p> <p>Any ideas as to why it could have gone wrong or any ways to save it?! Should I add more yeast? Additional sugar? Maybe the room it is in is too cold....</p> <p>I did give it a stir today (probably a bad idea!) and the fermentation appears to have started a little again.</p> <p>Any advice would be much appreciated!</p> <p>Ewen </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/london-pride-wlp002-advice#post-24094 Mon, 12 Dec 2011 21:24:08 +0000 seamus48 24094@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p> &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_biggrin.gif&quot; title=&quot;:D&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/london-pride-wlp002-advice#post-24091 Mon, 12 Dec 2011 21:20:32 +0000 VSat 24091@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Aaah. Makes sense Saracen. @seamus, I am sure you are right but thought he was Australian born or something as I didn&#39;t understand Nath&#39;s reference &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_biggrin.gif&quot; title=&quot;:D&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/london-pride-wlp002-advice#post-24085 Mon, 12 Dec 2011 21:06:52 +0000 seamus48 24085@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I thought Philip Schofield was from Oldham, Lancs? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/london-pride-wlp002-advice#post-24084 Mon, 12 Dec 2011 21:06:51 +0000 saracen 24084@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi VSat.<br /> I think you need access to UK TV to understand.<br /> The Cube is a highly popular game show presented by Philip Schofield. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/london-pride-wlp002-advice#post-24079 Mon, 12 Dec 2011 20:58:23 +0000 VSat 24079@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Thanks Saracen. Not sure about the Schofield and Rubik remarks, except unlike Schofield, I am not Australian &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_smile.gif&quot; title=&quot;:)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> <p>I can still do the Rubik&#39;s cube 30 years later though &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_wink.gif&quot; title=&quot;;)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/london-pride-wlp002-advice#post-24066 Mon, 12 Dec 2011 19:11:23 +0000 saracen 24066@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi VSat</p> <p>Regarding temperatures, go with what Hamish said.</p> <p>For the Diacetyl rest you&#39;ve got the right idea and the best way is to leave it in the Fermenter for 5 - 7 days after the fermentation has finished. This usually means the whole process takes 2 weeks from start of fermentation to bottling.</p> <p>Good luck with your brewing. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/london-pride-wlp002-advice#post-24064 Mon, 12 Dec 2011 18:38:27 +0000 Mark 24064@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Nath i was thinking about before that, ever heard of RUBIK &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_rolleyes.gif&quot; title=&quot;:roll:&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/efficiency-woes#post-24052 Mon, 12 Dec 2011 18:14:04 +0000 Nath 24052@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Nah, its just a way to save time on the brewday. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/london-pride-wlp002-advice#post-24045 Mon, 12 Dec 2011 18:06:21 +0000 Nath 24045@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>So where does Phillip Schofield fit in to all this then??? &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_razz.gif&quot; title=&quot;:P&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/london-pride-wlp002-advice#post-24028 Mon, 12 Dec 2011 14:58:04 +0000 Jim 24028@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>very interesting and something i&#39;ve never heard of before! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/london-pride-wlp002-advice#post-24027 Mon, 12 Dec 2011 14:55:05 +0000 Hamish 24027@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Ah I see, Aussie brewspeak. I was just curious, because although I recognised &#39;I no chill in a cube&#39; as English words, as a sentence they made no sense at all. &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_lol.gif&quot; title=&quot;:lol:&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/london-pride-wlp002-advice#post-24026 Mon, 12 Dec 2011 14:33:20 +0000 VSat 24026@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hamish, article <a href="http://hyperfox.info/no-chill.htm">here</a>. I got mine off ebay for about £6. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/london-pride-wlp002-advice#post-24023 Mon, 12 Dec 2011 13:11:01 +0000 VSat 24023@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Thanks for that. The &quot;cube&quot; is common in Australia. Basically rather than cool with IC, you transfer the boiled wort into a plastic HDPE food grade jerry can and allowed to cool. Some Aussies store theirs for months, but with 2 kids, allows me to pitch when I am ready. Look up &quot;no chill&quot; on the internet if you want more info. &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_smile.gif&quot; title=&quot;:-)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/london-pride-wlp002-advice#post-24021 Mon, 12 Dec 2011 13:04:29 +0000 Hamish 24021@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>When the gravity is 4 points from target increase the temperature. So, if your target gravity is 1.014 increase the temp when the gravity falls to 1.018.</p> <p>By the way, what is the cube thingy?.</p> <p> &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_smile.gif&quot; title=&quot;:-)&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/london-pride-wlp002-advice#post-24017 Mon, 12 Dec 2011 12:11:27 +0000 VSat 24017@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Did BIAB#2, GW&#39;s London Pride over the weekend. I no chill in a cube which allows me to split the brew day and to pitch yeast when I am ready. Worked form my first BIAB (SNPA clone) which is going down very well!</p> <p>So my question is regarding the diacetyl rest. Saracen may be the best person to answer(?), but I don&#39;t have a controlled temp fridge.</p> <p>My thoughts are pitch around 18C(temp of my utility room) for about 3 days, then bring inside to raise temp to 21C for a couple of days and then back into utility room for another week to let the yeast clean up before kegging/bottling.</p> <p>Does this sound about right? Thanks </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/efficiency-woes#post-23988 Sun, 11 Dec 2011 22:40:09 +0000 outlaw 23988@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>does an overnight mash give a good eff ? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/cleaningsterilizing-siphon-tubes#post-23579 Tue, 06 Dec 2011 17:17:53 +0000 saracen 23579@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I drop it in a bucket of bleach. If it gets discoloured I spend a few bob on a new bit. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/cleaningsterilizing-siphon-tubes#post-23522 Mon, 05 Dec 2011 21:48:46 +0000 Mark 23522@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>When sterilizing my fermenter i bung the syphon equipment in their with other bits and after about 15 mins syphon the solution out and then do same again with clean water. Do this again when brew is over. Seems to work just fine. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/cleaningsterilizing-siphon-tubes#post-23489 Mon, 05 Dec 2011 14:50:33 +0000 seamus48 23489@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Actually, I use a &#39;pull through&#39; from a rifle cleaning kit &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_redface.gif&quot; title=&quot;:oops:&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> <p>A line with a slim weight on dropped through the tube, tie a loop at the other end into which I &#39;trap&#39; a small piece of flanellete (a cut square of a new j cloth?) Dipped in neat videne and &#39;pulled through! Then rinsed through with fresh water. Spray the outside as normal. Simples &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_idea.gif&quot; title=&quot;:idea:&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/cleaningsterilizing-siphon-tubes#post-23488 Mon, 05 Dec 2011 14:47:56 +0000 grmski 23488@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I just rinse it out with water and then leave to soak in a sterilising solution and then rinse that out after. Can&#39;t say if it&#39;s the best way or not but it seems to work...so far. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/cleaningsterilizing-siphon-tubes#post-23487 Mon, 05 Dec 2011 14:38:02 +0000 james 23487@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Hi all. I was just wondering how everybody goes about cleaning and sterilizing the inside of your siphon tubes?<br /> I had an idea to get a long rigid tube that is sealed at one end, stand it on it&#39;s end, fill it with sterilizer/cleaner and lower siphon tubes into it. Only problem is, this sounds like alot of wasted sterilizer/cleaner. Anybody have a more effective way of doing it?<br /> Thanks. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/just-popping-me-all-grain-cherry-ooh-err-having-a-bit-of-a-nightmare#post-23456 Sun, 04 Dec 2011 23:39:11 +0000 stray66uk 23456@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>yes its a converted argos coolbox. I,m sure i read somewhere on here that someone else had a similar problem with the argos box and when they stripped the lid apart there was no insulation what so ever. I,ll improve it for next time. I wasn,t quite ready to be honest but I got a rare day off work and wanted to give it a go. I,m fairly confident I got away with it all and got beer, hopefully very nice beer!! </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/just-popping-me-all-grain-cherry-ooh-err-having-a-bit-of-a-nightmare#post-23454 Sun, 04 Dec 2011 23:20:26 +0000 saracen 23454@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>Glad it went well in the end. Is your mash tun a converted coolbox? I have a sheet of polyfoam which I think came with a washing machine cut to size and wrapped in allyfoil which I drop in the top of the tun. It seems to hold the temperature perfectly for the 90 minutes. Even overnight I only lose 2 degrees.<br /> Hard to describe the foam but it&#39;s an inch thick and 5-ply laminated, and feels rather like a very hard sponge.<br /> The reason for the foil is so the liquid doesn&#39;t soak in and I can remove the polyfoam, punch dozens of holes in the foil with a skewer and leave it on the top of the grain so the sparge water doesn&#39;t stir it all up. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/just-popping-me-all-grain-cherry-ooh-err-having-a-bit-of-a-nightmare#post-23444 Sun, 04 Dec 2011 22:58:25 +0000 stray66uk 23444@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I did end up tilting the barrel to get more out come to think of it. I have a hop strainer at the bottom but no tubing on the taps. I learnt a lot today. The boilers worked very well but need some tubing. I will start with as much water in the hlt as poss next time. The mash tun dropped about 6 degrees over the 90 minutes so I need more insulation (mind you it was bloody freezing today) My cooling coil was ace, nothing to do there,I seemed to get a very good cold break and it chilled to 20 degrees in 20 minutes or so. Lastly I must start brewing much earlier in the day next time and start drinking me amarilos much later in the process &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_wink.gif&quot; title=&quot;:wink:&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/just-popping-me-all-grain-cherry-ooh-err-having-a-bit-of-a-nightmare#post-23442 Sun, 04 Dec 2011 22:54:47 +0000 saracen 23442@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>All very well draining the last drops from the boiler, but what about the rubbish and crud from the hot/cold break? </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/just-popping-me-all-grain-cherry-ooh-err-having-a-bit-of-a-nightmare#post-23435 Sun, 04 Dec 2011 22:19:18 +0000 Steve_K 23435@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I thought about this the first time I used my mango-barrel boiler too (snap!) and I just tilted it forwards towards the end of draining... Result is no liquid left other than that absorbed. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/just-popping-me-all-grain-cherry-ooh-err-having-a-bit-of-a-nightmare#post-23432 Sun, 04 Dec 2011 21:30:04 +0000 Hamish 23432@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p><blockquote>Due to the shape of the barrel the tap cannot be fitted right at the bottom.</blockquote></p> <p>But you&#39;ve fitted a hop strainer haven&#39;t you?, this should run along the bottom of the boiler, after you have attached a piece of tube to the tap long enough so the end is below the bottom of the boiler you will get a syphon effect. There shouldn&#39;t really be much more than a litre left in the boiler, including the stuff the hops soak up. </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/just-popping-me-all-grain-cherry-ooh-err-having-a-bit-of-a-nightmare#post-23429 Sun, 04 Dec 2011 20:43:39 +0000 stray66uk 23429@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>hi steve, my boiler is a home-made mango chutney barrel jobby. Due to the shape of the barrel the tap cannot be fitted right at the bottom. So in a nutshell if I put 10 litres of water in i only get 6 ish out. That is the dead space, or I hope it is cos thats what i based it on &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_confused.gif&quot; title=&quot;:?&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/just-popping-me-all-grain-cherry-ooh-err-having-a-bit-of-a-nightmare#post-23428 Sun, 04 Dec 2011 20:39:50 +0000 stray66uk 23428@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I took the measurement straight out of the fv once it had cooled and drained from the boiler. I ended up doing 3 batch sparges, 4 if you include the thin mash &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_rolleyes.gif&quot; title=&quot;:roll:&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; as I under-estimated the liquor in the end. I reckon with the dead space and hops I lost loads to the boiler, nearly 6 litres. I should have had too much not too little. Mind you maths has never been my strong point. Good day though, all day &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/bb-plugins/default/icon_lol.gif&quot; title=&quot;:lol:&quot; class=&quot;bb_smilies&quot; /&gt; </p> http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/topic/just-popping-me-all-grain-cherry-ooh-err-having-a-bit-of-a-nightmare#post-23427 Sun, 04 Dec 2011 20:38:47 +0000 Steve_K 23427@http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forum/ <p>I have to admit this concept of dead space still baffles me - the only liquids left from one stage of my brew to the next is whatever the grains/hops have absorbed... Can someone elaborate? </p>